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#1
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important. need help
i have a 1997 mitsubishi eclipse gst. i have alot of work into the motor. oversized je pistons, crower rods, crower cams, venom fuel injectors, aem fuel rail, high flow fuel pump, venom intake manifold, tubular exhaust manifold, greddy large front mount intercooler, 2.5"turbo back exhaust, aem cam gears, phantom grip limited slip differential, pushing around 420 hp, basically the only thing stock is the turbo, water pump, oil pump, power steering, stuff like that...... anyway to my question.. i recently changed my fuel rail. i took the stock one off and put on the aem one, but whoever pre-assembled it from factory damaged the o-rings, so it leaked. so i put the stock fuel rail on with the bigger injectors. i believe they were 550cc injectors. now when i start the car it wants to flood. one guy told me i have to advance the timing. i know since the car doesnt have a distributor, you obviously cant advance the timing that way. so if anyone can help me let me know. i greatly appreciate it. thank you
aaron |
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#2
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Ingition timing is regulated by the CAS (crank/cam angle sensor) located on the top left side corner. Loosen the bolt and moving it toward you advances the timing and away from you retards it. Allthough i don't think this is your problem as it has nothing to do w/ regulating fuel volume, it sets the time of spark (5deg BTDC is stock i belive). I've posted a pic of where the CAS is located.
Not responsible for damaged piston pin's and/or connecting rods from advancing it to far. Use a timing light or get someone with experience to do it for you.
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1993 Eagle Talon ES (4g63NA) 14.6 @ 98 mph (110 octane race fuel) -5 Speed Transmission (From a 4g67) -Stage 2 Crane cams -Ported and polished head -Aggresive valve springs -2.5" Custom made exhaust piping -Custom header -Gutted catalytic converter -Bored 0.5mm -Advanced ignition timing (CAS) aprox. 5 degrees (set @ ~10deg BTDC) -2g valve lifters (Lifter noise returned, now it a true DSM) -K&N w/modified air canister |
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#3
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Re: important. need help
You are pushing nowhere near 420hp. Don't even begin to convince yourself that. You aren't pushing 300.
Stock turbo flows ~290cfm's and is good for 250hp, some people say 270 but I doubt it. Also 550s won't support 400hp. More like 350 on east coast gas of the gods, versus the horse piss 91 west coast. 550s get you 300ish on 91. Get 720's and a turbonetics 60 trim, you already have all the supporting mods you need. Except tuning. Get dsm link. safc won't cut it over 400 hp. With that stuff 400hp shouldent' be a problem... It only started leaking when you put the bigger injectors in? Try putting the stock ones back in, see what that does. Get some new o rings, they are like $10, fix the aftermarket rail and put in the new ones. Get tuning asap with new injectors. You car is set for 450s so it doesn't know what to do when you stick 550's or larger on there.
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Need a GOOD 6-bolt engine? Quote:
'95 Talon Tsi EVO III GT, supporting mods, not running Brand new never opened, walbro 190LPH fuel pump for a 2g $65 shipped. |
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#4
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Re: important. need help
That covered my 2 points. No 420 hp on the stock turbo no matter what the mods are. And I dont see an AFC or similar in that mod list to compensate for those injectors. You are effectively running ~18% too rich (450/550 - 1).
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Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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#5
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Re: important. need help
Sounds like you need to do a little more research on turbos...... www.dsmtuners.com Check out the upgrade guide and the tech articles for some good info.
__________________
Need a GOOD 6-bolt engine? Quote:
'95 Talon Tsi EVO III GT, supporting mods, not running Brand new never opened, walbro 190LPH fuel pump for a 2g $65 shipped. |
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#6
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Re: important. need help
I dont want to focus on the turbo thing. Lets just get the injector compensation problem fixed.
__________________
Kevin Jewer RWD Talon - 7.92 at 180 Mightymax - 10.7 at 125 |
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