clunk still there 95 s15 jimmy

[metallica21156]

replaced the swaybar link kit,bushings for it to the frame,new shocks, hood mod with washers, lower ball joints. if you take off you here a loud clunk and you can feel it in the floor board. if you almost floor it backwards you and get it to do it as well. power brakeing it won't do it. deffintly something in the front. other bal joints check out ok. the clunk was there before any of these parts were replaced. over driving and time its starting to get worse. any ideas?

[blazer94]

Have you checked your u-joints or shock bushings?

[metallica21156]

shocks are new and came with new bushings, Rancho RS 5,000's. Doesn't make any noise shifting into drive or reverse. if you go over a speed bump its loud.

[ricksza]

Sounds like a broken trans mount or motor mount. If it's 4X4, also check the torsion bar crossmember mounts. The crossmember is near the middle of the vehicle from one frame rail to the other with a rubber mount on each end.

[mrfirebird]

our 94 had that it was the torshion bar bushings. about 40 bucks apiece. mount right under the seat and would pop real loud ,scare the crap out of you.

[metallica21156]

how did you check to see if they were bad?. as for the tranny and motor mounts it would make noise power brakeing but i don't hear a thing. only going over bumps and fast take off.

[ricksza]

Put a pry bar between the frame and crossmember and pull down. It should have a slight movement but not seperate.

[mrfirebird]

a friend checked mine. mostly during a turn and if you lifted the front end going over a dip in the road then it would do it. i'd about bet that's your problem with all you have replaced.

[metallica21156]

well i was looking at a friend of mines 95 jimmy as well and i noticed that where the anti-sway connects with the frame next to the skid plate it looks like rubbers be pushed out. i talked to another friend of mine who does body and fender and he said that he changed it on his van and it fixed his clunk. i'll check the cross member.

[BlazayBlazerious]

Here's a good post about the crossmember. Its likely that's the problem. The post contains pics that show what the wear on your frame will look like.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=394951

[metallica21156]

i checked and there not evenly spaced. i changed the sway bar to frame and no luck. i looked at a friends of mine crossmember and its not even either but his doesn't clunk. i can see on the passanger side where it has hit before but nothings shinny likes its been hitting. it does clunck around turns but not as bad it its not turning any. all of the bushing on the crossmember look good. how much play should there be in it? and where would it seperate?

[metallica21156]

put rubber where it might be rubbing and no luck.

[mrfirebird]

torsion bar bushing replacement.
when the guy took mine out they fell apart in his hand , he was looking at them on a rack and they appeared, to be OK but,

1. Go to parts store, get new mounts.
2. Jack up RH side of truck, crawl under LH side

3. Remove nut from torsion bar mount stud that secures the mount to the cross-member. You'll have to feel for it, you won't be able to see it from below.

4. Remove bottom two bolts. Easy, they're in plain view from below. Now the mount is free.

5. Push up on crossmember, remove old mount.

6. Insert new mount - push up on crossmember, slip mount in between frame and crossmember. Drop hole in crossmember over the stud.

7. Loose assemble nut and two bolts. Torque down once other side is done.

Now over to the passenger side

8. Jack up driver side of truck

9. Repeat steps 3 and 4

10. To get the mount out, try pushing up on the crossmember, just like the driver side. If it comes out, great. I couldn't get the crossmember up high enough on mine. I used a big screwdriver and ripped it out by separating the rubber from the metal plate. It came out in pieces.

11. Install new mount. If you didn't have trouble getting the old one out, you probably won't have a problem getting the new one in. As I said, I did. I couldn't raise the crossmember high enough to slip it in. Solution: whack 3/8" off the stud. You'll still have plenty left for the nut.

12. Reinstall nut & bolts, torque down.

13. Remove jack

14. Torque down driver side.

15. Test drive, say "Holy ----, what a difference this makes"



got this from another site, maybe it will help.

[metallica21156]

do you remember how much it was and how long it took? also which rubber bushings are being replaced? the ones to the frame or the ones on the crossmember?

[rlith]

Just for giggles, have to checked for dry rot on your control arm bushings?