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10 Bolt R&P
How hard is it to replace a ring and pinion in a 10 bolt? Any special tools needed?
I was going to try to get a t56 and swap out my 4 speed, but $'s are tight. For like $250 i can get a set of 3.55's and save my 4.11's for when I have the $ to replace the trans. Thanks |
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#2
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Re: 10 Bolt R&P
youll need a magnetic base micrometer to check backlash, a dial torque wrench (not the kind you preset, the ones that go click are the wrong kind) and contact paint to check the tooth wear pattern on the gears. i think thats it as far as special tools.
to take it all apart, jack up the rear end, disconnect the driveshaft, take off the tires and brake parts. drain the rear end, and take off the rear diff cover. remove the carrier pin, then the C-clips and pull the axles out of the carrier. be careful not to damage the axle seals. undo the carrier main cap bolts, and use a prybar to gently pry the carrier out of place. be sure to keep the parts in the right place so they go back in exactly as they came out. do not swap parts from left to right in this job. now that the carrier and ring gear are out. use an impact gun to remove the retaining nut on the pinion shaft and tap it out with a hammer from the driveshaft side of the case. oh and at this point i realize i lied, there is another tool youll need, a hydrolic press, this is nesseary to remove and install the pinion bearing. and unless you are lucky enough to get the backlash right the first time, youll be putting on and taking off that bearing alot. there is a kit you can buy that has the pinion bearings oversized to get them on and off easily, but only for installation purposes. once you get it right, you have to take off the loose fit bearings and install the correct ones with the press. for the ring gear, unbolt the gear from the carrier (remmeber these bolts are reverse threaded, to get them off, turn them the way you would a normal bolt to tighten it.) and then install the new ring gear with a little bit of red thread lock on the bolts. once you get the measurements right, with all the correct shims and such, install the pinion shaft and bearings. This is where the dial torque wrench comes into play. Have someone use a rag and elbow grease to hold the shaft from turning, and use the wrench to tighten the nut down, i dont remember for sure, but i think its 20ft/lbs. then use the main caps and bolts to put the carrier in place, tighten in small steps very evenly and it should go right into place. again, once its in place, use a torque wrench (click style) to proporly torque down the carrier main caps. slide the axles back in, install the C-clips, and the carrier pin, then install the diff cover, brakes, wheels, and driveshaft. put in the diff lube, i think two quarts. but again not sure. then go easy on it for 100 miles or so to let the gears break in. now i throw out the disclaimer, all of this is from memory, there may be some holes or inaccuracies, so do your homework. This is not necessarily a hard task, but it is a very time consuming, and exacting one, if you dont get the backlash and spacing correct, i mean down to the hundredth or thousandth of an inch, you will have drivetrain problems that vary from vibrations to the rear end locking up at speed which isnt pretty. So at the very least try to get someone else who knows what they are doing to look over your shoulder when you do it. Thats sure as shit what i did. i had three experienced techs helping me out when i did it the first time, and im sure glad i did, and i didnt even change the gears which meant i didnt have to reset the backlash or anything like that.
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