I'd like an opinion

[ApexGT]

I'm 17 years old and have always been a car guy. I am currently driving a '96 Sebring LXi with a 168hp V6. This car is fun to drive...but I'd like to get something more fun, with more power, acceleration, and something that doesn't blend in on the road. I think a vintage muscle car is the perfect thing for me. However...I have a price cap of $5,000. I'd like to know what I can expect to find for under this price, and it still be in good condition and ready to burn imports at the light. Any suggestions?

[4speedsupreme]

I think it is going to be tough to find a ready to go Muscle car for $5000. If it were me I would either hold out for a real good deal on a Muscle car or I would buy a Fox body Mustang 5.0 FI with mass air. I have owned several Fox Mustangs and they give great bang for the buck, are easy to work on, and fairly cheap to buy and modify. If I was dead set on a muscle car I would probably buy the first clean one that came along.

[MagicRat]

Good advice!!

[ApexGT]

Originally Posted by 4speedsupreme

I would buy a Fox body Mustang 5.0 FI with mass air.

Thanks for the advice, but I'm not entirely sure about mass air. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the "Fox body" refers to the '79-'82 Mustang, the 5.0 refers to the V8 engine, and the FI refers to fuel injected. But, what exactly is mass air? I understand that it is some kind of conversion, but what are the benefits and how do I make the car "mass air"?

Any other suggestions on possible cars is still appreciated.

[Ghost74se]

I would try to find an "A" body car, like a Dart, or a Duster. They are lightweight (relativly, anyway), and can have alot of power. Since you're 17, I suggest you start out with something small, like a 340, or a 383, tops.

[MrPbody]

I don't know about Ford's specifics, but I've seen early '90s Rustangs with the "fox body" moniker attached. I agree with MagicRat. That's the only place you're going to find something that can really GO, for under $5K.
I have a current customer building a '71 Duster with a small block (360). After paying $1,000 for the body (pretty nice, which in this era is unusual), he has tied up about $9K in the rest of it. The point here, is that one cannot build a car of that era as cheaply as a more modern one, due to all the repairs necessary, and availability of certain parts.
While, ultimately, the GM F-bodies (Firebird/Camaro) are far superior chassis and basis for a "hot rod", the Mustang foots the bill nicely, especially in the "bang for the buck" department. Just don't think you're gonna go out there and beat up on everything with it. Regardless of what you read in magazines, Mustang is only a good performer once extensively (equals expensively) modified.
Lastly, since your needs are hampered by your budget (aren't they all?), avoid the OHC V8 Mustangs. Good runners, but mega-bucks to repair and/or pump up. The 302 (5.0) is much more "wallet friendly".

[ApexGT]

Thanks again for the advice everyone. And yes, the Fox platform was in fact used well into the 90's. My mistake. However, the 5.0 was dropped in 1996. So my year frame is 1979-1995? Is there any year, or set of years, that is better than others?

Keep the suggestions coming, please.

[blight]

Ok you don't even need that much. First off buy yourself a 240z (like me) from 1969-73 you should be able to find one for about 2,500 if you just look hard enough (thats how mine was and is in decent condition.

2. Second in the process of this find your self a caddy 500 from 70' - 76 i believe eldarado DO NOT PAY MORE THAN 300 for this it is not worth it. Make sure you get the crossmember with the motor mounts on them with the motor and if you don't look for one.

3. then find yourself a turbo 350 transmition this should be about 300 bucks for a rebuilt one.

4. Now that you have all this stuff time to buy your self a mig welder.

you should not spend more than abou 3,500 that is after the tools and buying the car and extras and lastly the engine and tranny.
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Here is how to do the swap. take EVERYTHING out of that 240z engine bay and then cut out the ould x-memeber measure the new one to be as close to that firewall as you can with clearence for that motor. now weld her back and low. drop the motor in get a big alminum radiartor to handle the new motor and put everything back in.

Now buy yourself a 150 dollar aluminum intake from the "cad company" this makes the 500 only 40 pounds heavier than the sbc.

also you will need custom exahust, tranny mounting, and that thing that goes from your trany to spin those wheels of yours. then for a rear end get a r200 from a 280z of the 70's it should handle about 500hp. you will also need a new rear sway bar and better front shocks for that 500 cubic inch motor.

(note: the 500 at the crank makes 425h@5000 and 575 torque@3000 ONLY IF YOU HAVE 70 HEADS!!!!!!)

Now that car should weigh about 2,500 pounds or so. Mine pulls between 11.4s and 11.7s (something is wrong with my tranny i think i will drop in a new one with and adapter plate so it will fit that six speed chevy bellhouseing off that tranny they use in the C6s)





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and now you have a car that pulls 11s for under 5gs!

[ApexGT]

Thanks for the advice Blight, but...1.) I'd really like to get an American car and 2.) that seems like more work than I'd want to do.

[blight]

Anything you do is going to require a hole butt load of work so in the end you just pick the cheapest thing YOU like. Personaly I don't care about how it looks I just want to be able to rape my bosses viper with a 3,500 dollar car.

Also like I said I have been looking into this for a few years and have posted about this here and a absolute insane amount of other forums to try and figure out which car is the best project muscle car to to start with for the cheapest price. Then best motor, then tranny, ect.

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So you either do it the cheap way or you can be slow and have a decent looking car no skin off my back.

[MrPbody]

A Datsun? The problem with that is more that you must be seen in public driving such a POS, no matter how fast it is. It's like having sex with a fat woman... It can be GREAT, but don't let your friends know!

[4speedsupreme]

If you are going with a Mustang the 94-95 sn95 body style is still a little costly. For the extra money you do end up with 5 bolt wheels and 4 wheel dics brakes. The 5.0 Mustang got Mass air in 1989 or 1990. Cars prior to that used a speed density system ( a map sensor instead of a mass air flow sensor). The problem with older speed density systems is that the computer will need replaced/ reprogrammed when the engine is modified. The mass air flow system adjusts itself for most modifications. If you supercharge or turbocharge one you will need to upgrade the fuel delivery at that time. Also the first year for the fuel injected mustang was 1986. This was also the last year of the " 4 eyed" Mustang before they got composite headlights.

[ApexGT]

Thanks 4speedsupreme for the plethora of information. So I assume my target window is 1990-1995 Mustang GTs. I know that the 1994-1995 Mustangs are heavier than the 1990-1993 Mustangs. But, would I rather have the improved brakes?

[MagicRat]

Originally Posted by ApexGT

Thanks 4speedsupreme for the plethora of information. So I assume my target window is 1990-1995 Mustang GTs. I know that the 1994-1995 Mustangs are heavier than the 1990-1993 Mustangs. But, would I rather have the improved brakes?

Consider an LX coupe (with the 5.0 package) instead of a hatchback. The coupe version is 80 to 200 lbs lighter, depending on the model and has a more rigid structure.


For the record the Fox chassis was introduced in the 1978 Ford Fairmount........not the stuff of performance cars. The Fox platform was used in mustangs from '79 to last year. It was also used for Lincoln Mk VII and Continental, T-Bird, Cougar, all from about '82 to 88

That means if you roll a '78 Fairmont and last years Mustang, upside down, they will look remarkably similar.

However, the mustangs got better year after year, so go for the latest one you can find, which still has the 5.0 pushrod engine.

[ApexGT]

Originally Posted by MagicRat

Consider an LX coupe (with the 5.0 package) instead of a hatchback.

Are there any performance differences between an LX 5.0 and a GT? I'm basically trying to find the best possible Mustang (assuming that a Mustang is the best car I can expect to find) for under $5,000. How does a 1992 Mustang LX 5.0 stand up against a 1995 Mustang GT, for example? I'm still torn between generations.