Should i DYNO after mods?

[BoosterSH]

This weekend im putting on DC Headers, AEM Pulleys, and a VAFC....should i get my car DYNO tunned after these mods? The only one that i could see needing tunning is the VAFC to check the fuel curve.....should i spend the cash or is there a place where i can find the proper setting for the controller with out having to dyno?

[kidrocket]

i dunno if you know but dyno pulls are expensive i think

[BoosterSH]

Originally posted by kidrocket
i dunno if you know but dyno pulls are expensive i think

Yeah i know, its $100 for 3 runs here. Its worth the money thou, you get better performance from them.

[flylwsi]

well...
no two cars with the same engine/mods respond the same to a tuneable mod...

if you can afford to dyno to tune, yeah go for it, but you can do it in car too... remember that...
as long as you know what you are doing...
i would set everything really rich, and lean it out to find the power curve and the best settings, b/c your car and my car, hypothetically being the same, would react different, just because that's how it is.

if you found someone with the same mods etc, i would go with their setting as a baseline, and see if you can make it better...

just remember that stupid unrelated stuff always works its way into it... ie, your clutch wear, you wheels, etc... if yours are different than the guy that has the same mods otherwise, you'll be a little different.
i would take it to someone who can tune really well, and see if you can get a deal...
maybe go with two or three cars to see if he can get you a discount

[del]

Originally posted by BoosterSH


Yeah i know, its $100 for 3 runs here. Its worth the money thou, you get better performance from them.

damn! you think that's expensive. that's like pocket change compared to what it costs in the only place i know of that has a dyno in chicago. $50 for ONE!!!

[kidrocket]

i hear Gtech is accurate to about 5 hp lol

[supafly1024]

I would definitely spend some time on the dyno tuning the VAFC.

[MARKUSIUDIUS]

For any mods that may affect engine managment, they should always be setup using a dyno. Dynos are the only way to tune a engine to its peak due to its ability to compansate for real driving conditions. They also previde you with all the correct readouts needed. The newer ones can work out correct power figures by tyre size, inlet temps etc etc.

Gtecs are for power and acceleration rough readings only. I havent seen a Gtec with any air/fuel sensors.

Ive actually heard of people installing turbos, cam gears and vtec controllers etc without a dyno and then messing around with there setup by driving and playing with it. Can you please explain how they obtain the correct air/fuel ratios, timing etc because they are the biggest f**k wits ever.

When you state AEM pulleys are you refering to light weight pulleys or adjustable cam gears?

Always use a Dyno its the only way.:flash:

[BoosterSH]

Originally posted by MARKUSIUDIUS
For any mods that may affect engine managment, they should always be setup using a dyno. Dynos are the only way to tune a engine to its peak due to its ability to compansate for real driving conditions. They also previde you with all the correct readouts needed. The newer ones can work out correct power figures by tyre size, inlet temps etc etc.

Gtecs are for power and acceleration rough readings only. I havent seen a Gtec with any air/fuel sensors.

Ive actually heard of people installing turbos, cam gears and vtec controllers etc without a dyno and then messing around with there setup by driving and playing with it. Can you please explain how they obtain the correct air/fuel ratios, timing etc because they are the biggest f**k wits ever.

When you state AEM pulleys are you refering to light weight pulleys or adjustable cam gears?

Always use a Dyno its the only way.:flash:

I will be getting the Power Pulleys, these dont need to be tuned. Its the VAFC that im thinking of.

[fritz_269]

Tune it on the dyno.

The thing that every good dyno setup has is a "wideband O2 meter" aka "lambda meter". This is a laboratory-grade O2 meter that will tell you exactly how rich/lean your engine is running. It's about 1000 times more accurate that that little bung in your exhaust pipe. It is absolutely necessary to have when tuning a fuel curve.

If you are using seat-of-the-pants or a G-tech, you'll quite possible lean out the engine too much (because it may well put out more power when it's lean). But the next time the air temp goes up, or you get a little oil in the gas - *boom* - you fry a valve or a piston.

Don't mess with the fuel settings unless you really know what you are doing. And if you really know what you're doing - you'll use a dyno with a wideband O2 meter.

PS> Just a thought - you might want to invest in adjustable cam gears before the dyno tune. That way, you can adjust both the cams and fuel curves with one dyno session.

PPS> A decent shop will charge by the hour for dyno tuning. Expect $80-125 per hour. A fuel curve & cams should take around 1 to 1.5 hours. Make damn sure the shop has tuned cars similar to yours before.

[BoosterSH]

Originally posted by fritz_269


PS> Just a thought - you might want to invest in adjustable cam gears before the dyno tune. That way, you can adjust both the cams and fuel curves with one dyno session.

Should i get cam gears even thou i still got the stock cams? I thought cam gears are only useful when you get new cams, can the stock cams be tunned also?

[fritz_269]

Originally posted by BoosterSH
Should i get cam gears even thou i still got the stock cams? I thought cam gears are only useful when you get new cams, can the stock cams be tunned also?

Adjustable cam gears on stock cams (with a good fuel controller) will let you push your powerband around. You can boost low end grunt at the expense of top end hp or vice versa. You can tune to be a top-end heavy drag racer, or a torque heavy street prowler. And just dialing in your cams accurately will probably net you a few hp increase all the way across.

My main point was that since you're gonna shell out for a dyno tune, you might as well tune as much as you can while you're there.

The best solution of course, as you intone, would be to add new cams to the mix. Like the Crower stage I or II. I know we're getting a lot more expensive here, but why blow the bucks to dyno tune unless you've got something that will really get you some hp for it.

IMHO, save up for cams, gears & the VAFC - install them all at once and get a good dyno tune. That's probably the most power you'll get for the money (other than N2O of course )

[BoosterSH]

Originally posted by fritz_269

Adjustable cam gears on stock cams (with a good fuel controller) will let you push your powerband around. You can boost low end grunt at the expense of top end hp or vice versa. You can tune to be a top-end heavy drag racer, or a torque heavy street prowler. And just dialing in your cams accurately will probably net you a few hp increase all the way across.

My main point was that since you're gonna shell out for a dyno tune, you might as well tune as much as you can while you're there.

The best solution of course, as you intone, would be to add new cams to the mix. Like the Crower stage I or II. I know we're getting a lot more expensive here, but why blow the bucks to dyno tune unless you've got something that will really get you some hp for it.

IMHO, save up for cams, gears & the VAFC - install them all at once and get a good dyno tune. That's probably the most power you'll get for the money (other than N2O of course )

Yeah that makes sense. I currently working on getting the basic bolt ons put on, and then start with the heavy mods such as the cams and VAFC.

Going back to crower. Which are the cams that come with their stroker kit? I plan on getting the kit later on, so if im gonna get the cams ahead, i might as well get the ones that go with the kit.