Can someone PLEASE advise me on replacing the starter???

[rmillang]

My 1986 735i has developed a chronic starting problem. When turning the ignition on, I get a "WHIZZZZZZZZZZZ". I then turn the key off and try again. After about 5 tries, it finally engages and turns the engine over. After speaking to a few mechanics I know, it seems that this is the common symptom for a dying starter. Before you ask...I've already thoroughly cleaned all my ground connections. Didn't help.

I noticed that the cost for a rebuilt starter is around $90 (very cool!). Since I work on Porsche 356's, I figure I could probably install the starter myself. I can see where it's located and it looks relatively easy to access from under the car.

Can someone PLEASE just give me a few pointers on what to look out for before I begin? Is there a common procedure for replacement instructions? Please help! I don't want to mess up.

Thank you in advance!

Richard Millang



.

[KC Ron Carter]

http://normgrills.net/bcg/Engine_Ser...#anchor1461624

Starter Replacement That Beats All - Samuel Abbasi <[email protected]>
I posted brief information as to the easiest way I discovered to replace a starter on the 6er forum. I received e-mail responses asking that I forward my full experience to you as an FAQ. I read the two existing postings on how to change a starter and this method is MUCH less of a headache, and it works in a fraction of the time! I hope it's worthy.
To remove a starter on a 635 CSI, first gather the following tools:
1. The 17mm wrench from your trunk's toolkit (a must). Reason - the standard 17 mm Craftsman wrench, or the like, has too thick a wall to use the tool. The BMW wrench's wall is thin enough to use for this application;
2. Flat head screw driver;
3. The wrenches appropriate to remove the bolt for the oil filter, nut from starter solenoid and for loosening the battery connections;
4. An oil pan;
5. A jack (jack stands if you prefer);
6. Small flashlight with an adjustable beam; trust me you'll need it (MagLite works well);
7. and, a broom handle.
Plan for a total job time of approximately 1.5 hours.
Start the job when the engine is cold.
Jack the car and place the oil pan underneath where the oil filter housing will be removed. You know, like you've done a hundred times before. When removed, lower the car.
Remove the battery connections, negative first. (Remember, when you disconnect the battery, you will need the radio code to use your radio after the job is complete. No code, no radio).
Place the new starter in a place where you can see it easily while you work. This will help guide you as the job progresses as you will sometimes be using your fingertips as your eyes.
There are only two bolts (starter mounting bolts) and one nut (from the solenoid) to remove. Both bolt-heads and the nut face forward, nothing should be loosened from the rear.
Starting from the drivers side, disconnect the cables coming from the solenoid. There are only three of them and two go to the same post. Keep a mental image. This is a no-brainer, you'll see what I mean when you get to it.
Find the lower outside mounting bolt. You're fingers are your eyes here. Using your 17 mm wrench, remove the lower outside bolt first. It will be a bit tight but work with it. This is the easy one, but watch your hands and be careful of wrench slippage.
Now, using your screw driver loosen the o-ring of the hose at the very top-rear of the engine block. It's about 1" in diameter and it's the end that leads to the engine. Move the hose back (towards you) and tuck it somewhere so that you don't have coolant spillage. If you do it right, you won't spill a drop of coolant.
Now move to the passenger side of the car and take your 17mm wrench and your flashlight with you.
Lean over the engine block and look through the 3" square opening just below and to the left of the air flow meter. From the view you now have, the opening is above the #1 piston (closest to the firewall) above the valve cover. You'll be looking sort of through the engine's head. Using your flashlight's narrow beam, look for a 17 mm bolt. It's the only one you'll see and it's right there. This is the second starter mounting bolt. This one was the pain.
Now, slide and guide your 17mm wrench from the far-left of the valve cover, near where you disconnected the hose earlier. Use one hand to guide the wrench and the other to hold the flashlight allowing you to see where the wrench-head is. You will only be able get the wrench onto the head in one position, and it's a good one. You now know the importance of the thin walled wrench. Now that you have it on, go to the drivers side and bring your broom handle with you. Brace the butt of the handle on the neck of the part of the wrench that you can see. Push firmly and slowly! Once it gives, go to the other side of the car and work the wrench in small increments to get the bolt off. Remember, the starter is heavy. It may help to have someone there to support the starter, from the drivers side, while you remove the last bolt from the passenger side. One person can do this, but it's much easier with someone on both sides of the car.
Once the bolt is off, the starter will be in the hands of the person that is supporting it for you. Be careful not to drop it, you may damage assorted hoses and/or cables. Ease the starter towards the removed oil filter housing. You have to turn it in different ways to get it through opening created when you removed the oil filter. Once the puppy is out, you may want to take a break.
Do the opposite to get the new starter back through the opening. The replacement procedure is similar to the removal with the following exceptions:
Once the new starter is hand-held in its mounting position, put the outer bolt on first. This was the first one you took off during removal. Don't tighten it yet. Go about half way, then work on placing the second bolt. This is a one person job. Work from the DRIVERS side. Use your left hand to support and jiggle the starter so that your right hand can work the last bolt into position. Slide and guide your right hand into the position where the wrench was when you were removing this bolt. This procedure can be a bit time consuming and unnerving. Be patient, it will happen. Once it grabs, hand tighten as far as you can. This makes the wrench tightening procedure shorter. Now from the passenger side, use your wrench to tighten as far as you can. Once that's done, use your broom handle to tighten it even further.
Home stretch now.
Reconnect the coolant hose from earlier, the no-brainer solenoid wires, oil filter, battery and YOU ARE DONE!!!
Start her up, and you will notice that... SHE SOUNDS GOOD!
By: Samuel Abbasi 85 635 CSI

[rmillang]

KC,
Thank you soooo much for this article.

Quick question, are all the details in the article also relevant to my 735i? I noticed he is refering to a 6 series car.

-richard