100K Mile Tune-up

[blackblazer24]

I plan on replacing the spark plugs/wires, rotor & cap as I'm coming up on 100K in my 97 Blazer. I'd like to get platinum plugs cause I heard they last longer. My question is what brand of spark plugs and wires should I be using? Is there any other items I should replace at 100K?

[wolfox]

Go for OEM style AC/Delco on your plugs. If you *must* have platinum plugs, AC/Delco Rapidfires make a good substitute. Avoid multi-tipped/electrode Bosch Platinums. The AC/Delco Rapidfires come pre-gapped, so you just slip them in. DO NOT adjust the gap or you will loose the platinum button that is sputtered onto the electrode surfaces. My '95 eats a set of standard, AC/Delco's part # CR43TSM every 100k when gapped to .045". Going to Platinum plugs does little to nothing on these trucks. If you feel the urge for something a little more "ritzier", standard "Bosch Super" plugs work well. (They only cost about $0.98 a piece) Being 3/8" of an inch shorter, the Bosch Supers are easier to manage when putting them back in, and taking them out later. (Getting around the #3 spark plug on these engines is a bi*ch because of direct access being blocked by the steering column)

As for wires, any set will do. I find "Lifetime" wires useless because they eventually still wear-out and I could never find the reciept for the life of me. Double check your Owner's Manual or any other in-store guide to get the appropriate plugs for your model year - though I doubt that they have changed at all. Be safe, and apply a little patience while doing the job. I have broken the ceramic insulators quite easily when trying to torque in the #1 and #3 plugs before I got the right tools and the right idea of how to go about it. Other than that- have fun!

Tools that have helped me get the job done:

1 small pair of channel lock pliers for yanking old, siezed boots off.

1 magnetic deep socket for sparkplugs. Holds the plug snugly in place without funny little rubber boots inside the socket to push the plug back out when you take pressure off of it to pop on your drive extensions.

1 Universal joint

1 6" "Wobble Extention"

1 12" extention (Used to go through the fender well to reach the back of the wobble extension that will plug into the back of the plug socket to get at that nefarious #3 plug.

1 Needle nose pliers to help grasp the magnetic socket so you can pop it back out when done.

1 tube of Dielectric Grease. Use this to lightly lube the sockets of the boots on both ends where it goes to the distributor tower and the spark plug insulators. This keeps them from arcing/crossfiring and aids in removal later.

1 tube anti-sieze compound. (applied to plug threads *very* sparringly)

Every 30,000 miles, regardless of plug type, and the anti-seize compund - back the plugs out of their sockets a 1/4 turn, then re-seat them. If left alone, they usually will sieze to the block at 60,000 miles. A rather trivial thing to do really for years of dirveability.

Oh! Before I forget:

100k check-up should include Cap and rotor button - anything again will do here. Without hesitation, get your fuel filter replaced. They are cheap. I swap mine out every year. Might want to invest in a set of flare nut wrenches and jack stands if you plan on doing it yourself. On my truck, the filter is hidden behind a skid plate under the driver's side rocker panel. Standard open-ended wrenches tend to round off the nuts that hold the fittings on the filter together. So get those flare nut wrenches! While down there, check your front CV-boots for tears or slung out grease. Inspect and replace leaky remote oil filter lines immediately. Flush and refill coolant, drain and replace oil in rear and front differentials, transfer case, and schedule a shop to perform a "Transmission Pan Service". This does not replace ALL of the fluid, but you get a new gasket, filter and top off with fresh fluid. If it goes another 30,000 miles without troubles, have the tranny completely flushed. It goes a long way to keeping it tight and happy. Oh, and of course, swap out your air filter and also inspect for leaking shocks. (They will look "wet" with road grit and dirt sticking to them if they are going out) I am probably forgetting alot of stuff, but one last thing comes to mind - drop the front skid plate that covers your front steering gear and hit all of your grease zerks with a grease gun. Dry front-end balls and joints will bring the truck down fast.

Let us know how you did!

[BlazerLT]

Get the Ac Delco Platinum plugs. That is what came stock with the 1996+ 4.3Ls.

Get stock wires also from AC Delco.

Also change:

Air Filter
Fuel Filter
Cap & Rotor
Coolant Flush and Fill
Tranny Flush and fill with a new tranny filter.
Swap out the transfer case fluids for all synthetics.
PCV Valve.

Should be good to go.

[blackblazer24]

Thank you both for the responses. I decided to go with the AC Delco platinum plugs just cause thats whats already in there. Plus I've had good luck with the AC Delco brand.

As for the other stuff, I just put in a new fuel filter & I definetaly keep my front end greased up. New Moog U/L ball joints, I/O tie rods & idler arm are too exspensive not to take care of!

K&N air filter installed when I got the truck. I also cut away three sides of the botom part of the air filter housing leaving the side closest to the motor. The hole that the air comes in is really small so only part of my filter was getting dirty. After I did the hacking, I could definately hear more air being sucked through. I wanna get one of those throttle body spacers. My step dad just got one for his 2500 Silverado and he said he's getting better gas mileage now. Ah the neverending quest for better gas mileage. I'm getting 21.7mpg now but you always want more.

[BlazerLT]

DON'T GET A STUPID THROTTLE BODY SPACER!

Waste of money on our trucks and causing problems with the fuel mixtures.

If you want to save money, get your tranny, rear and front differential and your transfer cases filled with synthetic oils and you will definite get better mileage overall.