94 LHS Died at light, will NOT start...help!

[taylorwoman]

I have a 1994 Chrysler LHS. Died last week after stopping at light. Tried to restart it. Turned over just fine (fairly new starter, battery, alternator), but would not start to save my life. Sounded a bit "weak", if that makes any sense. Right now it is sitting at shop waiting for guy to get time to look at it. He "thinks" it might be timing chain, but really has no clue from what I can tell. Anyone with similiar experience? There was no warning, no jerking, no lights, no sputtering. Just quit really quickly. Runs great and have had no recent problems - except the engine light come on once about a month and half before this problem. That time I just stopped the car, waited a bit, restarted, light did not come on, never happened since. Thanks for whatever you can assist with.

[Toban]

When it had shown the warning light, did you read the codes it had stored to find out what the warning was for ? I know the 3 turn key works on my 95, i would guess it works on the 94 to, at least it would be worth a shot.

If you did, what where the codes ?

Originally Posted by taylorwoman

I have a 1994 Chrysler LHS. Died last week after stopping at light. Tried to restart it. Turned over just fine (fairly new starter, battery, alternator), but would not start to save my life. Sounded a bit "weak", if that makes any sense. Right now it is sitting at shop waiting for guy to get time to look at it. He "thinks" it might be timing chain, but really has no clue from what I can tell. Anyone with similiar experience? There was no warning, no jerking, no lights, no sputtering. Just quit really quickly. Runs great and have had no recent problems - except the engine light come on once about a month and half before this problem. That time I just stopped the car, waited a bit, restarted, light did not come on, never happened since. Thanks for whatever you can assist with.

[taylorwoman]

Turns out, it has to do with my timing belt (I hear this is bad), and all I know so far is that I ruined the water pump...still waiting on the other bad news. I guess I am really worse with cars than I thought...where would I "read" or see these messages you are talking about? Thanks!

[Toban]

Originally Posted by Toban

When it had shown the warning light, did you read the codes it had stored to find out what the warning was for ? I know the 3 turn key works on my 95, i would guess it works on the 94 to, at least it would be worth a shot.

If you did, what where the codes ?

On my 95, if you cycle the key on, off, on, off, then on ( on being almost running or just enought to get then dash indicatores to come on) then look at the engine light, it will flash, count the flashes and then we can get the codes for you, I have a book here with many of them, I think I have a link somewhere to along this line, if I run across it, I'll forwarded it to you.

[Toban]

Originally Posted by Toban

On my 95, if you cycle the key on, off, on, off, then on ( on being almost running or just enought to get then dash indicatores to come on) then look at the engine light, it will flash, count the flashes and then we can get the codes for you, I have a book here with many of them, I think I have a link somewhere to along this line, if I run across it, I'll forwarded it to you.

Diagnostic Trouble Codes - 1994 Chrysler

11 IGN reference signal.
12 Battery input to PCM disconnected during last 50 key starts.
13 MAP sensor pneumatic circuit.
14 MAP sensor electrical circuit.
15 Vehicle speed/distance sensor.
16 Open or shorted condition detected in knock sensor circuit.
17 Engine running too cool.
21 Oxygen sensor circuit.
22 Coolant temperature sensor circuit.
23 Intake air temp. sensor voltage high.
24 Throttle position sensor.
25 IAC motor driven circuit.
27 Fault in injector driver interface circuit.
31 Purge solenoid circuit.
32 Fault in EGR diagnostics.
34 Speed control solenoid circuits.
33 A/C cutout relay circuit.
35 Fan control relay circuit.
41 Charging system excess or no field current.
42 ASD relay circuit.
43 Fault in ignition coil control circuit.
44 Battery Temp Voltage.
46 Battery voltage too high.
47 Battery voltage too low.
51 Oxygen feedback system stuck at lean position.
52 Oxygen feedback system stuck at rich position.
53 Internal logic module problems.
54 No cam position signal.
55 Completion of fault code display.
62 Indicates unsuccessful attempt to update EMR mileage.
63 Unsuccessful attempt to write to an EEPROM location by the controller.
64 Methanol sensor voltage too low.

To call up codes, cycle ignition switch on, off, on, off and on within 5 seconds. Stored codes will be indicated by flashes of the power loss/check engine lamp. The codes will be indicated as two digit numbers, with a four second pause between codes. An example of a code is as follows:

Power Loss/Check Engine Lamp illuminated for approximately 2 to 3 seconds as a bulb check, then turns off.
Lamp flashes 2 times, pauses, then flashes 6 times.
Lamp pauses for approximately 4 seconds.
Lamp flashes 3 times, pauses, then flashes 1 time.
This would indicate that code 26 and 31 are stored. The lamp will continue to flash until all stored codes have been displayed.

Once the lamp starts flashing the stored fault codes, it cannot be stopped. If a code is missed, the entire procedure must be repeated. The lamp will not indicate if oxygen feedback system is switching lean-rich or if idle motor system is operational. The lamp also cannot be used to perform actuation test mode, sensor test mode or engine running test mode.

After all fault codes have been displayed, then power loss/check engine lamp can be used to verify switch function. The lamp will turn on and off as the switch is turned on and off.

[creslevi]

Hi
My son in law has a 95 LHS and his died when at a filling station he got gas and it never started again and believe me he checked everthing and replaced a lot of the different sensors, Nothing worked.
So he took it to a shop and they pulled the timing chain and determined the gas filled tensioner was bad and was about to replace that (??$100.00 ??)and put it back together, But as we were nosing around looking things over we noticed a suspicious tear in the timing belt, well to make a long story short, there is a plate in there attached with some lightweight (1/4 20 capscrews) and the head of one of them broke off and ran thru under the belt which we think depressed the tensioner long enough for the timing belt to slip one tooth ?? maybe more ??, anyway no one thought it was the timing belt because the cam was turning when we cranked the engine over, We reloaded the tensioner as per instructions and I believe we put the old one back in and he now owns a non returnable tensioner cylinder but is very relieved to have found the problem, oh yeah I allmost forgot we dug around in the sludge in the bottom of the cover/block and found the head of the Little bolt which confirmed our theory and it ran fine until the tranny went out but thats another story, hope this helps if you have a questions please feel free to E-mail me [email protected]
Good luck
Rick

[AWP9521]

Originally Posted by taylorwoman

Turns out, it has to do with my timing belt (I hear this is bad), and all I know so far is that I ruined the water pump...still waiting on the other bad news. I guess I am really worse with cars than I thought...where would I "read" or see these messages you are talking about? Thanks!

When the Water Pump goes it will take out the Timing Belt and the Tensioner too, The Pump needs to be replaced, the belt, and the Tensioner also has to be replaced too. As already mentioned the Tensioner is about $100 and is only available at a Dealer. But the replacement is far better than the factory one as the factory Tensioner has a Plastic Pully and the Replacement has a Steel one.