95 Camry EGR Code 71 Clean With Seafoam?

[HpyGlmore2]

I've searched everywhere and read the FAQs on this forum to see how to get rid of error code 71. My 95 has 172K on it, and most code 71 errors with high mileage involve removing the EGR valve and cleaning out the buildup using a carbon cleaner or pipe cleaners (elementary school) to get rid of built up carbon deposits. I pulled the hose that connects to the switch and sure enough I saw bunch of carbon.

My question is, can I treat the car with seafoam as outlined in the FAQ, and might that fix the problem? I would almost rather do this since I do not have the tools yet to remove the tricky 12mm bolt on the underside of the EGR valve. It looks extremely rusted and I probably need to buy a flexible ratchet set. I've never done seafoam and maybe I should do it anyway? Thanks

[somick]

I do not think it will clear the code source, but it will definately help the car. EGR deposits need to be mechanicaly cleaned. Sorry.

Good luck,

Sam

[HpyGlmore2]

So I did the seafoam treatment yesterday, wow what a lot of smoke. Who knows if that is just for effect, or if it really is doing something. I think I have better acceleration now but could be my mind tricking myself into thinking the 20 bucks for 2 cans was worth it.

As for the EGR valve, I was able to get the two side bolts off with a 12mm ratchet, but I tried unsuccessfully for 2 hours getting the nut underneath the valve off. Despite many sprays of PB blaster and 2 trips to home depot for the proper wrenches, and when I finally did, I wound up snapping part of the iron that the side hex nuts presses again. Luckily enough is left for a tight fit still, but that underneath nut never budged. I was able to bend the valve back a bit since the underneath pipe can flex some. I was able to see the dark buildup that was causing a block. I scraped away at it with some screwdrivers and got down to shiny metal. I reattached it, drove it around and to work today (30 miles on the highway) and the check engine never came on and no idling problems. I think it's good enough. If the check engine light comes on again, I'll probably buy the OEM part for ~150 and have someone else install it.

Has anyone has success getting that bottom nut off? The pipe also connects to the engine and I couldn't gain access to that one either, not enough space.

[jdmccright]

You can gain some clearance by removing the black air intake resonator and tube section, and unbolting the throttle body. You don't need to unhook any of the cables, but disconnect the four vacuum hoses going to it from the EGR, VSV, etc, and the hose going to the valve cover. You can then move it aside enough to get at the nut with a wrench. The only warning is that you can hit a connector on the right side of the ignition distributor with a wrench, but it is rubber-mounted so it will flex some. However, for a really stuck EGR pipe nut, I'd remove the distributor too.

Use plenty of PB blaster, WD-40, and try some light tapping of a hammer against a screwdriver on the nut faces. Once you get it off, use a wire brush to clean the threads.

A pipe cleaner and carb cleaner is best for dissolving the carbon build-up in the EGR. You might try to remove the little pipe on the side for easier cleaning, but its screws are usually frozen by rust. Buy a new EGR gasket and throttle body gasket since they usually tear due to their age. Hope this helps!