Air Brushing

[Markgase2000]

I always wanted to play with a airbrush gun , but since im cheap I will be playing with cans for the time now , Ive been doing this way for a few years now without prepping the paint (erasable to those of you who use clay bars) I am gonna atempt to paint laquer flames on my acyrlic clear coat (wont make sense to some) I know what your thinking , theres gonna be an adhering issue , well thats why Im doing it. It will not adhere like conventional painting , thats good to me , I want it temporary so if I decide to make it permanent cus I like it I can prep it right or if I dont like it I can take it off with ease. In any case I was wondering what you all think? I also did an experiment , I preped a 1/4 inch around my port holes with 80 gritt , then 120 gritt then 320 gritt (on the acyrlic) used 900 body solvent to clean it then applied gloss black engine enamel about 10 coats , it adhered and is a solid and permanent adition to the acyrlic clear coat.

I have a question ,
If I do like the airbrush and want to use standard laquer paint to make the flames , could I clear it over with acyrlic clear coat after or should I just leave it the way it is? I know these paints arent desighned to work together but they can right? I have enamel racing stripes air brushed on from 2 years ago and still looks great.

[Markgase2000]

Heres what the port trim looks like up close
http://files.automotiveforums.com/ga...sort=5&cat=500

[mike@af]

It will be fine if you acrylic clear over it, just make sure you dont hit anything enamel.

Any other airbrushing stuff? Just ask me.

[Markgase2000]

Do you air brush with a can or airbrush kit? I used a can here , however I was also wondering do I just body solv the paint on the hood then apply the clear or just the enamel portion I air brushed?

[Markgase2000]

I am mostly familliar with doing old fashioned painting with laquers and enamels , well frame up restoration methods so Im not too familliar with the entire process with acyrlics?

[mike@af]

I use an Iwata HP-BC airbrush with a compressor.

As far as paint and prep goes, clean off the area that you are going to paint, then wetsand it with 1500 to get good adhesion surface. Airbrush the design with acrylic-lacquer like you said. Before clear coat find an small area on the car to shoot some acrylic-lacquer on there just to see if there will be any cringing or adhesion problems. After you are "A-OK" go for clearing.

[Markgase2000]

Ok , I tried a spot and it wrinkles , used body solv 900 on the spot and the paint adheres smooth and follows the pattern of the paint surface , then i removed it since it was an experiment , thanks now I know I dont need to sand for good adhesion over top the factory clear coat dont even see a difference. What odd paint still so new to me , not like painting sanding painting sanding over and over lol alot simpler than the old days seems less work than off frame painting. Im gonna make my pattern any suggestions for that? should I make a template then use it one side then flip it use it on the other side or could I get away with making them not even on both sides and have kind of a free flow thing happening? Trust me , i got lots more questions the further i get into this the more new troubles im gonna need answers for. Thanks mike

[mike@af]

Funny how your asking questions, I thought you were the expert. Well I do alot of airbrushing, and detailed paint things like that so you have come to the right man.

As far as the template, templates are crap. Unless you are doing skulls and stuff templates are crap, they often blead and look like well, crap. If Im not mistaken you said you are painting flames. I suggest using a very thin width masking tape, "blue tape" to be specific. Im sure you have seen it, its a 3M plastic tape. This tape to be specific http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...word=blue+tape Get it in 1/8" width.

Using the tape start in one place, hold the tape their with one finger, then on the oppisite hand pull the tape roll about 6-12 inches. Then start sliding your finger around and pulling the roll in directions to create the flames. Then just mask around it with some regular auto masking.

Does that make sense to you?

[Markgase2000]

nope never had the pleasure of playing with a air brush kit , and learning something new is good too , i kinda figured the template would set you off but luckily i have a back up so you dont think im an idiot entirely lol yes the template is for an even sceme on both sides , theres gonna be no details in the sceme , solid flames painted in a slightly off blue , since my arse aint getting into gear with this i might just have to finally buy an air brush kit. I found one stainless steel and glass baby food jar type 100 bucks lots of nozzles tips. can those tips burn out? i believe the gun is powered by a little hose you blow in. worth it for a first time gun? I never done any artistic schemes before but am eager to try.

[Markgase2000]

Originally Posted by GTmike400

Funny how your asking questions, I thought you were the expert. Well I do alot of airbrushing, and detailed paint things like that so you have come to the right man.

As far as the template, templates are crap. Unless you are doing skulls and stuff templates are crap, they often blead and look like well, crap. If Im not mistaken you said you are painting flames. I suggest using a very thin width masking tape, "blue tape" to be specific. Im sure you have seen it, its a 3M plastic tape. This tape to be specific http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...word=blue+tape Get it in 1/8" width.

Using the tape start in one place, hold the tape their with one finger, then on the oppisite hand pull the tape roll about 6-12 inches. Then start sliding your finger around and pulling the roll in directions to create the flames. Then just mask around it with some regular auto masking.

Does that make sense to you?

yes it does , is it ok if the flames arent perfectly even on both sides?

[mike@af]

Originally Posted by Markgase2000

yes it does , is it ok if the flames arent perfectly even on both sides?

Originally Posted by Markgase2000

yes it does , is it ok if the flames arent perfectly even on both sides?

Hell yea thats ok. Just make sure they look somewhat similar.

As far as airbrush kits, if you want to start out there is an Airbrush called the Paasche VL which is a dual action airbrush ($60-$70USD). There are several more airbrushes by Pasche that are worth the money for starting out, as well as Badger. If you decide your good and like it go up to an Iwata.

If you are unfamiliar with Dual action vs. single action just let me know.

[daedal.]

Originally Posted by GTmike400

Hell yea thats ok. Just make sure they look somewhat similar.

As far as airbrush kits, if you want to start out there is an Airbrush called the Paasche VL which is a dual action airbrush ($60-$70USD). There are several more airbrushes by Pasche that are worth the money for starting out, as well as Badger. If you decide your good and like it go up to an Iwata.

If you are unfamiliar with Dual action vs. single action just let me know.

Not my thread but I sure would like to know the difference between to two types. I'm thinking of start Airbrushing and I'll definitly look at the Paasche guns you've pointed out but I'd rather have the differences explained by someone impartial than by a Salesman/Vendor.

[mike@af]

Originally Posted by daedal.

Not my thread but I sure would like to know the difference between to two types. I'm thinking of start Airbrushing and I'll definitly look at the Paasche guns you've pointed out but I'd rather have the differences explained by someone impartial than by a Salesman/Vendor.

Single Action-
Single action has less working parts for one. When using the "trigger" as I will call it you control only how much paint you are spraying. The further back you pull, the more paint you spray. The thinnest you can usually spray with a single action is about 1/8". However they do spray wider than dual action. They are most often external mix guns as well, and usually siphon feed. External mix means the air, and the paint mix outside of the airbrush.

Dual Action-
Dual action has a few more parts to it, but it is much more versatile. When using the "trigger" you can go up, down, back, and forth. The up/down controls how much air, the back/forth controls paint flow. The more air, and less paint flow creates super thin lines (depending on your mix, and paint). Dual action airbrushes can spray hair thin lines and up to about 1/2" to 3/4". Dual action airbrushes are internal mix, thus the air and paint mix inside the airbrush.

-------------------------------
Theres the fairly basic info. Dual action is usually used for detailed artwork, or artwork in which you have a lot of variations in opacity and line thickness. Personally I suggest the dual action anyday.

[Markgase2000]

Cool thanks for the explainations , Im looking for one like you described dual action sounds like my style.
Thanks for all your advice mike , pm me tell me how your hotty rod is commen along.

[Markgase2000]

Got the hood off today and re painted the intake manifold and some other small parts to closely match the exterior paint color. I know what most of you are thinking , why the hell , well I am very good at painting engines and can easily change it back to stock in less than an hour and repaint it in less than an hour again so why the hell not? Only thing is this is the third maybe fourth time ive done this and am wondering if this suits the car better than the previous ones. What do you figure mr mike?