92 Camry Stalls

[hwyflier]

I have a 92 Camry 5SFE that I just got back running today after a no start for a couple of days. I checked spark, Fuel and Air and all were okay.. It finally did start and ran fine. I ran a few errands with it and came home and parked it. I then went out to move it in the driveway and after I started it the RPM's dropped right down to a stall. It would restart right away but continually would drop right off to a stall. I could drive it but when I came to a slow speed or stop it would stall.

Any thoughts or suggestions... I have searched the forums but have found no direct answer to this type of problem.

[Joe W]

Has the check engine light come on?

[hwyflier]

Nope...No Check engine light. I drive the car and it runs fine the whole trip to work, 7 miles of stop and go driving. I stop in the parking lot and turn the car off. I immediately restart the car to find that the RPM's drop off and the car stalls. It restarts fine but if I try to drive it the RPM's continually drop off to a stall. After the car sits and cools down it starts and runs fine again. Any thoughts..?

Originally Posted by Joe W

Has the check engine light come on?

[Orangecrate]

Verrify that there aren't any cracks in the 4" tube from the air filter to the throttle body. Test the EGR Valve and IAC Valve for functionality or take them off and make sure that they're clean and operational. While you're at it clean the throttle body.

Kep

[markcutter]

I have a 1992 Camry XLE 5S-FE 2.2L 4cyl automatic with 212K mi and the same warm stalling problem that many others have described, starting 6 mos ago and getting progressively worse, stalling at stop lights, in the middle of a turn, etc., and very hard to start after stalling. I could get around keeping rpm above 2K by downshifting but my 16 year old daughter was afraid to drive it. Check engine light does not come on.
I tried the following procedures, none of which solved the problem.

• PCV Valve replaced (not indicated but it's only $4)
• Fuel Injector cleaner $5
• ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) replaced $15
• Spray clean Throttle Body - clean with throttle body cleaner, e.g. seafoam $10
• Remove and clean Throttle Body - lots of carbon deposits
• Vacuum test EGR - apply vacuum works, measure vacuum none, engine still stalls w/ EGR closed ($30 for vacuum pump)
• Remove and Clean EGR valve - lots of carbon deposits
• Test IAC with ohm meter - OK
• IAC Intake Air Control jumper test - OK
• IAT Intake Air Temp test - OK
• Pull plugs - all OK, none fouled

Note that the Chilton's manual for this model incorrectly identifies the Oil Pressure sensor as the Engine Knock Sensor.

At this point I took it to a mechanic I trust and who is reasonable in his prices. He noticed that while running smoothly above 2K rpm there was some missing. I had replaced plugs, wires, dist cap, and ignition coil less than 40K miles ago, so he suspected something in the distributor. He put it on the analyzer but it did not show anything. Since a new distributor is $180 I decided that it might be easier to get a new one than try to figure out what's wrong with the old. It's been running smoothly with the new distributor ever since.

[folken]

Clean the throttle body. Its easy and may bring the rpms right back where they should be. There is a youtube post you can watch.........Folken