Diagram to repair Power Window 92 Ford Mustang Conv

[harlans]

Passenger side rear window was working. Car was setting a few months and when I rolled it down, it would not come back up. All the other windows work. I do not hear any power going to the window. I do not have a diagram and the repair manual does not tell how to take off the panels in the convertible to check out the motor or relays. Can you advise me. I am not a mechanic and I am a senior citizen. Thanks

[MechEngr]

You have to pop out the back seat. Push the seat reward by prying with a long screwdriver and the base of the front part of the seat on each side of it. The manual says "kick the seat aft", but it's pretty cramped, even with the top down, to do that.

Once the seat bottom is out, you will see screws on the side panel. There are 2 in the front part of the side panel, too. Also you will have to
probe around with a phillips head screwdriver where the back of the seat meets the panel for 1 or 2 scews hidden by the cushion.

After that, you should be able to lift off the panel, which includes the arm rest and window switch. The switch is held by a scew. You may want to disconnect the speaker connector to move things out of the way.

The regulator or motor drive unit is held by 3 scews, 10mm I think. You may need to grind the sidewall of the socket to make it thin, because of the way it's mounted. You can test it with a 12 volt battery, swapping plus and minus to change direction. I have found that often it tests good out of the car when there is no load on the motor.

There are 2 things that go wrong with these window motors.
1. the rubber pieces get chewed up in the gear drive. When this happens, usually the motor turns (makes noise) but the output gear doesn't rotate or move the windown. You can buy a kit in the autoparts store for rebuilding it for about $20. It's the same one as for the front window, in case they don't list that window specifically. You have to remove 3 screws on the face of the gear drive.
2. The bimetalic over load switch, built into the motor gets corrosion on the contacts. It's on the end of the motor. I forget if it has a cover, or if you have to remove the 2 long thru-bolts. If you can get at them, you can clean them up with an emory board. I also bent mine slightly, so that it took more current to shut of the motor.
You see, there's no limit switch or position switch for turning off the window motor. When the window closes and physically can't move any more, the motor current goes up, and the bi-metallic switch opens, presumably preventing damage to the motor, gear drive, and your kid's fingers. The problem is that that threshold of current is too low for a mechanism that doesn't move as easily as it did when it was new.

Oh, by the way, I'm assuming that neither the passenger or driver switch moves the window - ie. not a bad switch.