Daytonas

[tazman]

Maybe someone should start a whole new classification for all of the Daytona owners. I see quite a few Daytona questions being posted.

[timc554]

I have another Daytona question. I have a 89 Daytona ES with the 2.5L engine and I believe I have sheared the pins off on the lower pully for the timing belt. If this is the case and I have to replace it can someone please tell me what the timing is for this engine?

Thanks,
Tim
NSDQ!

[boostage]

hello im new and i own an 89 dodge daytona es with the 2.5 t1 turbo motor. i have found many upgrades for it at performanceparts.com. this place is way better than allpar. anyway i cant help ya tim on that one but im glad to see other 2.5 owners. there are too many people lucky enough to own the intercooled 2.2, dont you think? anyone interested in just chatting about the turbo dodge cars e-mail me and ill instant message u. [email protected].

[Polygon]

Originally Posted by boostage

hello im new and i own an 89 dodge daytona es with the 2.5 t1 turbo motor. i have found many upgrades for it at performanceparts.com. this place is way better than allpar. anyway i cant help ya tim on that one but im glad to see other 2.5 owners. there are too many people lucky enough to own the intercooled 2.2, dont you think? anyone interested in just chatting about the turbo dodge cars e-mail me and ill instant message u. [email protected].

LOL, most of the cars released in 1989 and up were 2.5L engines. You were lucky to have a Turbo II.

[boostage]

yeah. ididnt know that but all my friends own the shelby or iroc and the 2.2 intercooled with the garret is untouchable in my opinion. the 2.5 is supposed to have better low-end but they get me off the line so bad. and the power around 4,000-rev-limit(5200) is crappy. the 2.2 is good all the way through. i have considered switching the turbo with the garret on the shelby and adding an intercooler off the shelby. is it gonna beat a 2.2 or is it a waste of time? i nedd top end power and ive found a hydrolic cam from comp cam that will give good power up to 6000 instead of 5200, will this motor allow such high revs if messed with the rev-limiter? just a question.

[Polygon]

Originally Posted by boostage

yeah. ididnt know that but all my friends own the shelby or iroc and the 2.2 intercooled with the garret is untouchable in my opinion. the 2.5 is supposed to have better low-end but they get me off the line so bad. and the power around 4,000-rev-limit(5200) is crappy. the 2.2 is good all the way through. i have considered switching the turbo with the garret on the shelby and adding an intercooler off the shelby. is it gonna beat a 2.2 or is it a waste of time? i nedd top end power and ive found a hydrolic cam from comp cam that will give good power up to 6000 instead of 5200, will this motor allow such high revs if messed with the rev-limiter? just a question.

And I would agree. The 2.2L is by far the better engine, IMO.

When Chrysler made the 2.5L they used the same block as their 2.2L they just used a different head with a longer stroke. Which only gave you and extra 10 ft/lbs of torque, but you had about 25 less horsepower and worse top end. I would say if you want to be serious about modding the car, you would be best off to find a doner car and swap all the underhood stuff. Your engine has much weaker pistons and over-all the rest of the internals are weaker as well as you transaxle. I take it that you have the manual which is the A-520? If so you would be far better off with an A-555 or A-568. The power of the Turbo II will tear the gearbox up pretty easy if you drive up the boost. So to find a doner car will take less time, money, and you willhave less problems overall.

My advice, go with the 2.2L Turbo II swap.

[Bazilisck311]

timc554, ignition timing for 89 daytona 2.5L non turbo is 12 degrees BTDC, if you want some more power out of it at the expense of fuel you can adjust it to 15 BTDC, get a little more boost out of it.

if your talking about valve timing, i dunno.. ill have to look it up

[CUTTER0]

I have a garrett turbo for sale with only 80k miles on it if anyone is interested. It comes with everything to drop right in. lines, wastegate, hot side of turbo, intake side. no shaft play and burns no oil. E-mail me if interested. [email protected]

[boostage]

Yeah i have some friends with the turbo 2 and i could get a hook up but me and my friends had an idea about putting in the chrysler conquest tsi motor, tranny, gearbox and rear end. that way i would have serious power, performance motor, and a rear-wheel drive daytona. i found a guy in tennessee that has about seven of them and i can get a conquest for about 1,000 dollars but the only thing good in it is the parts i need so if anyone wants a better one in better shape they will have to pay more. id say ill start the project in march and will finish around the end of april or beginning of may. ill show a movie of step by step things i done for all the chrsler/daytona turbo fans. ill be selling the motor and tranny and anything else i dont need like some interior around the same time so if anyone wants any let me know aorund march. ill be on this site and keepin in touch with you guys/chicks too.

[Polygon]

You would have to be nuts to want the Conquest TSi engine!!! Rear wheel drive is nice, but the engine is horrible. They aren't reliable, they have very lower power from a large displacement, and the gearbox is crap compared to the good Chrysler ones. The 2.2L and 2.5L are much more robust engines and much more reliable. You will be able to get much more power from a common block than the TSi engine. Also the A-555 and A-568 five speed manual forged gearboxes from Chrysler were designed by Chrysler and built buy Getrag of Germany. They are renowned for their racing transmissions and a new one costs about $5,000 today. There are ways to convert a common block to rear wheel drive and you would be much better off doing that. The Conquest TSi has a horrible drive-train. There is a reason he has seven of them and they are all junk.

[boostage]

ok. i want some power but i have to have a turbo, i need low end, top end, mid rangepower, i also want rear wheel drive. help me pick the best starter motor, and descibe or give me a link of how to do this. any help on the best way to atart a rear-wheel drive turbo shhrysler let me know i want the best and some of the best.

[PWMAN]

Originally Posted by Polygon

I take it that you have the manual which is the A-520? If so you would be far better off with an A-555 or A-568. The power of the Turbo II will tear the gearbox up pretty easy if you drive up the boost. So to find a doner car will take less time, money, and you willhave less problems overall.

My advice, go with the 2.2L Turbo II swap.

Well, the A520 is still pretty good. WAY better than the 525. The 520 can handle 300 Ft/lbs with the Chrome moly transplate. Thats pretty good power for any street car with a 4 cylinder.

OK, my opinion. The 2.5 T1 should have much more off the line than any T2. First, of course, the displacement. Also, it has the mitsu turbo which spools very fast. So, I gues your friends are just better drivers, no offense.
So, for now if I were you I would stick with the 2.5. Your top ends sucks because you have restrictions in your intake and exhaust, mostly exhaust. So, first atleast get a KN air filter. Then, go to www.fwdperformance.com and get a 2.5'' exhaust. Depending on where you live, you might need to get the cat. But if you don't, I suggest you just leave it out and get the test pipe. The stock down pipe is already 2.5'', so you don't need to waste that 85 dollars there. Just get the test pipe(if you can)or the cat, and the cat-back pipes. The pipes are 110 dollars, you don't need a muffler either-the turbo is a good muffler. So, with the KN filter and exhaust you should spool so fast you will crap your pants, and have way better top end. Next you should think about buying that Chrome-moly transplate, just for safety. At that same time get the T2/T3 clutch combo from FWDperformance, it's only 150 dollars, a real deal if you ask me. Make sure you break in the clutch before you fool around. Then, you should be able to drop the hammer on that thing and smoke your friends in the T2's.
After that, you should look at intercooling. Front mount is the best, I wouldn't bother with a stock T2 one, they aren't that great. After the IC, then up your boost. The safest way is to just buy an ECU from FWDperformance maybe stage 2. That takes it up to 14 PSI. With all those mods listed you should have 225-250 HP with 275-300 ft/lbs. A very fast street car.

[boostage]

were do u get this information. i appreciate everything. ok. i will go with intercooling. wich is better the air to air or the air to water? also the quickly spooled mitsu, would an aftermarket eclipse turbo mount up and will it still have quick spool. im kinda lookin at more than 14 psi. i want around 18-20 but with quick spool. i like the gearbox in this thing so i will keep it now with someone elses opinion added. i also found a hydrolic cam and would it help or is it a waste. the best range on it is 3000-6000. good for a turboi right? also too much tire spin alredy so i couldnt imagine it after mods, how to keep em' planted? i dump at around 2-2800 so am i over reving for the stock clutch or is it just too high. really man u are a good person for helping. im just a car fanatic and love to race but all my friends have newer cars and have no faith in the old ones. i love this car and want it fast. i want 12's in 1/4.lol. ive seen these cars fast but have not street legal mods or v8's in them wich im against that.basically im wondering about forced induction, gears, and the best to make it light. tyhanks for the help.

[PWMAN]

Originally Posted by boostage

were do u get this information. i appreciate everything. ok. i will go with intercooling. wich is better the air to air or the air to water? also the quickly spooled mitsu, would an aftermarket eclipse turbo mount up and will it still have quick spool. im kinda lookin at more than 14 psi. i want around 18-20 but with quick spool. i like the gearbox in this thing so i will keep it now with someone elses opinion added. i also found a hydrolic cam and would it help or is it a waste. the best range on it is 3000-6000. good for a turboi right? also too much tire spin alredy so i couldnt imagine it after mods, how to keep em' planted? i dump at around 2-2800 so am i over reving for the stock clutch or is it just too high. really man u are a good person for helping. im just a car fanatic and love to race but all my friends have newer cars and have no faith in the old ones. i love this car and want it fast. i want 12's in 1/4.lol. ive seen these cars fast but have not street legal mods or v8's in them wich im against that.basically im wondering about forced induction, gears, and the best to make it light. tyhanks for the help.

My info is from personal experience, and a lot from searching in forums too.
I personally like Air/air intercoolers, I know Polygon likes air/liquid. Air/air is maintenance free, and pretty much lasts forever.
Some mods will be required to bolt up that Eclipse turbo, I don't recommend it. Look at www.FWDperformance.com they have upgrade turbos, and even hybrids too.
http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/...talog=Rebuilds
Get the S60 or S70 turbo. I wouldn't recommend a hybrid.
You will want to keep your engine a roller cam, trust me it's better than the slider/hydraulic cams. Try Taft cams, again at FWDperformance.com.
You might want to upgrade to an LSD in your car, expensive but worth it. Quiafe goes for around 1100. Also, look for a good set of sticky street tires. Get size 225/50/15's, thats what shelbys have.
Yeah keep the 520 tranny, but definitely get that Chrome moly transplate.
If you want more than 14 PSI, than you must change your tranny. Plus more than 14 PSI your are risking blowing your stock internals. You already have a lot of miles on it, don't push it. You will be already almost doubling the boost output. Oh yeah, the mitsu turbo is good to about 18 PSI.
With the mods I listed you should be in 13's very easily. Trust me you will smoke those T2's like they were civics! LOL
If you go more than 15 PSI you need the 3 bar MAP sensor. More than 15 PSI gets into a whole new world. Stage 3 ECU from FWDperformance is 15 PSI.

Oh, good source of info for you:
www.thedodgegarage.com

[soul_sword34]

Sorry to break into your thread here but you are my last hope. No one can tell me what kind of a turbo I have. I just got the thing and it is now sitting right next to me on the floor but I don't even know what kind of a turbo it is can anyone help? First it is out of a Daytona and is a Mitsu. The numbers on the compressor side say TE04H 4448992. Exhaust side has these numbers on it H1 9E D4 83-61 H9 D21. These numbers I can't decipher. Thanks if you can help me.