Where's the "How to..." on parts other than the body parts & Kit Bashing?

[Headlight]

Hi Guys,

I was wondering if someone could do an extensive "How to..." on the other parts like the interior stuff, engine parts, Exhaust system etc. etc.

My questions are the following:

1) Should you primer all parts, or just body parts?
2) Do you spray all interior parts with the air brush or just some.
3) Should you leave the parts on the Tree when spraying or is it better to remove them first?
4) Is it neccessary to wash these parts aswell for a good finish or not?
5) Is masking the perfect solution for perfect trimmings on these parts or is there a better solution. (Not that I can think of one better than this. Just wondering.)

These are just some of my questions. I would really appreciate it if someone could just guide me as I am a serious newbie!!!

Thanks Guys

-Headlight

[ProSStreet]

1) I primer just the body parts
2) I dont use an airbrush, but i do use spray cans on most all big parts
3) I always take them off the tree so i can file down the mold lines
4) I wash all my parts
5) Masking is probably the best

As you can see this is what "I" do, not saying its the best and im sure others have differnt opinions. Just thought id give my $0.02

Cheers!

[Headlight]

Thanks for your advice. I will take your tips into consideration.

[DarchAngel]

Just as ProSStreet said, this is just what I do, and I find it works okay:

1) I don't prime the interior parts unless painting a light colour and the part is dark, like I want yellow seats (though I've never wanted yellow seats) and the seat parts are moulded black. When I do prime them, I use a brush primer rather than spray (I use GamesWorkshop's "smelly primer", an excellent primer indeed).

2) I use a brush for everything, and rattle cans for the shell. Though I don't own an airbrush, I'd only use it for the shell and maybe the undercarriage anyway. If you thin your paints properly, you can get just as smooth a finish as spray, IMO. You also have a lot of control over colour mixing, and don't spend a fortune on masking materials...

3) Depends on the part. Most parts I cut off the tree, but the fiddlier parts where the tree attachment is in a good place, I leave on the tree for some bits, and finish them after cutting. For instance, the Tamiya 350 Spider's brake discs are attached to the tree at the calipers. By cutting the tree around the disks, I get a handle (the bit of tree I leave) to hold the parts while painting the actual disks. When that's finished, I cut the part off the tree, sand down the mould lines where the attachment was, and paint the calipers. Just saves me hanging on to the caliper whilst I paint the disks. Like I said, it depends heavily on the part as to whether there's any benefit.

4) I'd suggest yes, but I don't. I've found that if I use properly thinned acrylics without washing the part, the surface tends to resist paint coverage, it forms little puddles where no paint is. If you are persistant, or use slightly thicker paint, you can get it to cover properly, but you need to be very careful you don't make it too think or you'll end up with a streaked or bumpy finish.

5) I come from the world of GamesWorkshop's Warhammer 40K, so painting tiny details with accuracy is something I've had to learn. Therefore, whilst I'd say that masking is a great way to get a fine and straight line, I'm more fond of working free-hand so I can at least claim some artistic mastery, and not a little pride in my perfectly straight line without masking Using a tiny brush, and practicing your fine detail work will only pay off in the end, as it makes it a lot easier to add those tiny finishing touches that make your model stand out from the croud. It'll take you ages to do when you start, but with a little practice, you'll find it goes a lot faster, and you'll have a better sense of achievement when you finish. At least I do, but then I'm an idealistic artist

Hope my is helpful