?Best Add-on's for Offroad Performance?

[NewbieD]

I've just went and bought me an X in March, it's an outstanding machine!!! Been on a few trails since, but nothing too serious. I'm getting ready to get rid of these stock tires for some BFG MT/KM 32's. Besides that, what are the most important aftermarket add-on's to boost offroad performance?

[Schludwiller]

Tires were your best first step. Since your X is brand new you should take it out and find what kind of offroading you like and what terrain you encounter. Getting together with an offroad group is a great start. Have you met the HiXTC club?

Check out the mods sections here (it helps if you set your menu selection to display allthe posts since the beginning of this board). It really depends on what you want to do. I prefer to go piece by piece so I can see what direct impact each mod makes.

You'll probably want to upgrade the shocks soon. Bilsteins are great. Rock sliderz are another mod you'll get use out of right away. Your rear leafs will probably be good for a year, as well as your torsion bars until you start banging your truck around or adding more weight (steel skids, bumpers, etc).

[NewbieD]

Cool. What about lifts? I know I shouldn't have to lift 'er to clear the 32's just do a little trimming, and I know The X already has outstanding ground clearance. (I plan to do a lot more muddin than rock crawling anyway). What are your views on body/suspension lifts? How high can you go before it's more of a hinderance than a help?

[warmonger]

One word of advice, make yourself a plan. Once you know how you will be driving it both on and off road, use that info to decide what is best for your driving. You can fire all kinds of parts at it, but without some direction it is nothing more than dragging your truck through a parts shop and seeing what sticks. Rifle members websites, listen to what you hear on the forums and use the info to your benefit.

[Dayspring]

Here's a piece of advice for you, since you like to go mudding- get a spare alternator The X's alternator is on the bottom of the truck, and NJAX has at least 2 people with mud in theirs (sounds awful) and we fried another one. So, just be careful

[Elroy]

Yes, be careful when it comes to mud and water. I'm on my second alternator, and it looks as if this one is going out as well.

[Kerensky97]

On the lift subject, I'd go with a 3" suspension lift when you can.

It won't raise the minimum ground clearance but it will lift your frame and keep it from dragging through the thick mud and/or snow.

Plus I see the Lift as a good mod starting out, it has many bennefits, and few problems. Like schlud said, tires, shocks, sliders, then lift (IMHO).

-Dustin

[swampwrecker]

The only thing I've done to my X (to improve off-roadability) is put on a set of 33" swampers. I can only think of one obstacle I couldn't conquer that others did and that was only because I didn't want to rip my front bumper up. Sure, I have to be a little more careful than others when I'm rock crawling since I have no protection, but it doesn't keep me from getting over things.

In my opinion, if you're going to do mostly muddin' I wouldn't bother with an ARB (unless your getting a winch), sliders or skid plates (unless your mud is full of tree stumps). All three of those will just slow you down and the skid plates will just trap mud. If tree stumps are an issue than skid plates are definitely a must.

If you want a lift to add ground clearance, wait until a good 5" lift comes out, don't bother with the 3" lifts (unless you're going to combine it with a 2" or 3" body lift) that are currently on the market. They do nothing to add clearance and won't allow you to run anything larger than a 33" tire (which I already run with only a torsion bar lift). Since you're in mud, articulation isn't that big of a deal. I can't recall a time when my tires have rubbed the body when I've been in a mud puddle.

[warmonger]

Swampwrecker,

You make a good point and it reinforces my original assertion. I made a similar statement to yours regarding off-roading in Florida and was taken to task by certain individuals on other boards. What it all comes down to is what type of off-roading are you going to do? Although I live in Florida and mud and sand are the predominant fixtures to play in, I had to build in versatility because I also LOVE to play in clay pits and sinkholes. This means articulation, mud and sand. If mud is your primary off-roading surface, skidplates can trap mud and overheat transmissions. In an Xterra (or any low hp vehicle), low range is vital to spin the tires fast enough to clear the lugs of mud. Because of this, a 3.5 - 4/1 low range isn't necessary unless you build the motor and lower the power to weight ratio. That will allow you to spin the tires fast enough in high range where low range is no longer a factor and you can now do whatever you want to with the low range gears.

And this type of logic can be used in any enviroment. I am sure this statement will start controversy as it has before, but I stand by the assertion that each person should know what they need and how to accomplish those goals. They discover this by experience. It's kind of like the two schools of thought on mud tires. Some guys believe tall and skinny is the way to go. Their logic is that it allows them to reach deep into the mud to find the hard pack underneath. Then there are those who believe wider is better. It spreads out the weight over a wider area, keeping the vehicle from sinking as deeply into the mud and providing more surface contact with the mud for traction. I have seen both schools of thought work. Taller is better if speed is not the goal. They can just crawl through the mud like there's no tomorrow. Wider tires whiz through the mud like little hellions cutting the gates at 40 plus mph.

The important thing is, decide what YOU want to accomplish. Then use the experience you have gained driving your truck to set and reach those goals. If you go about it this way, you will be far happier with your trucks performance than just throwing parts at it.

Let the flames begin!

[NewbieD]

This site rules! I've been getting so much good advice! Lots of times with detailed pics and instructions! Thanks all! I'm definately putting the BFG MT/KM 32/11.50's on this baby...And like I said, being that I've only been on a few trails thusfar, I'm gonna go with Warmonger's and Swampwrecker's advice. I'll stick with the tires first and take it peice by peice...The trails I have been running aren't stumpy or too rocky, lot's of hills and/or sand the ground clearance I have is suiting me just fine for now. Not too much use for armor. I don't think I'll need to lift 'er up just yet either (maybe just crank the torsion bars a little in the front). I'm also looking into new shocks and leafs (per Schludwiller). Thanks again all!

[Goliath the X]

NewbieD

As others will attest, the rear Nissan leaf springs are not the greatest. They will begin to sag within a year of use. A set of Rancho Add-A-Leafs will do wonders for preserving the life of your springs. It will also add several inches and compliment a t-bar lift well.

IMO the AALs improve the ride of the truck, others might disagree.

[XMan9]

ya, from what i hear my rear springs will sag in about a year. when i visited with ian from xoc, he pointed out that my 2002 x has 2 rear leafs and not 3 like the earlier years. they might sag sooner although the rates are prob different. so i am most likely going to help them and get helpers. cheap and easy.

[warmonger]

Originally posted by XMan9
ya, from what i hear my rear springs will sag in about a year. when i visited with ian from xoc, he pointed out that my 2002 x has 2 rear leafs and not 3 like the earlier years. they might sag sooner although the rates are prob different. so i am most likely going to help them and get helpers. cheap and easy.

One important note. If you plan on adding lockers or have a supercharged 2002, you might as well replace the spring pack if you do any sand. If you don't switch to a double-wrapped eyelet (sometimes referred to as military) spring pack, you will encounter axle wrap in sand with a locker and/or a supercharger. If you never hit the sand, it won't be an issue. But if you do on a regular basis (we do here in Florida all the time), axle wrap can break an axle.

The spring pack is fairly weak (that's why they sag so quick) for a cushy ride. Although the cushy ride makes for good articulation in certain off-road situations, it isn't so good in sand. It was fine for a 170 hp LSD equipped X, but it ain't so good for a locked or 210 hp X. The AAL will not eliminate axle wrap in most cases. I have seen cases when they do and it depends on the AAL spring rate and where it is placed in the pack. But as hp or traction goes up, the axle wrap will return. Just something to think about if you are planning other mods in the future.

[superjens]

Isn't the way the rear shocks mounted designed to avoid axle-wrap? What I mean is, one shock is in front of the axle, the other behind. What if the shocks were beefier (Bilstein etc)?

[warmonger]

Shocks have little to do with axle wrap. It is caused when the spring is not strong enough to prevent the axle from twisting the springs in an S shape. The hopping noise is caused when the spring reaches maximum tension and unwinds, causing the axle housing to rapidly rotate. If you have any doubts about it, ask any member of FLXX what my axle sounds like when it unwraps. It will be cured in a couple of weeks when I add the lift. Until then I just have to be careful.