2003 CR-V hesitation

[Gene Vondette]

My 2003 CRV has a pulsating hesitation during heavy acceleration. I have thought maybe fuel filter, but it doesn't seem right since the hesitation is pulsing. Any ideas?

Also, does anyone know where the fuel filter is, or if it is serviceable on these? The local parts store has no listing for it.

Gene

[watch5869]

Originally Posted by Gene Vondette

My 2003 CRV has a pulsating hesitation during heavy acceleration. I have thought maybe fuel filter, but it doesn't seem right since the hesitation is pulsing. Any ideas?

Also, does anyone know where the fuel filter is, or if it is serviceable on these? The local parts store has no listing for it.

Gene

My 2002 CRV has done this from day one. The dealer could do nothing except say that the computer sensed nothing wrong. I just live with it.

[asalgado011]

Hi, I have the same problem on my 2002 cr-v. I changed the sparkplugs (NGK Iridium as recommended by Honda) and cleaned the injectors at the Honda Dealer. I changed also the air filter. The problem stills there, when I suddenly accelerates (seems to happen only when the car is at the third speed, is an automatic transmission model) the car hesitates. Honda dealer said that everything is ok, that the scanner indicates everything working fine, no computer trouble code.
If you find a solution to this problem please let me know. I spent a lot of money on the mainteinance mentioned before and had no improvement.
Two more aspects, idle speed without lights on or AC is around 800 rpm (Honda specification is something like 650 + / - 50 rpm but dealer said it was ok. Dont know if this has some connection with the hesitation problem.

[wiseguy01]

Originally Posted by Gene Vondette

My 2003 CRV has a pulsating hesitation during heavy acceleration. I have thought maybe fuel filter, but it doesn't seem right since the hesitation is pulsing. Any ideas?

Also, does anyone know where the fuel filter is, or if it is serviceable on these? The local parts store has no listing for it.

Gene

you guys might wanna check and see if ur tps is no good first rev engine at standstill and see how it revs then take of tps plug and note the difference if it improves then u know what ur prob is note unplugging tps might turn on CEL

[asalgado011]

Hi. I did the following, it worked and is not hesitating anymore.
I replaced my brandnew NGK iridium sparkplugs IZFR6K (that I just changed a few months ago looking to solve the hesitation problem on heavy acceleration) by the Denso SKJ20DR-M11. Both sparkplugs models and brands are the required by Honda to be used on the second generation CRVs however seems to be that the Denso sparkplugs works better (at least in my case) however NGK is also an excellent brand but for some reason is not working ok on my CRV. I need to mention that I got this car used and it hesitated since the first day I got it, it came with NGK plugs also, so mine (the iridium ones I installed are not deffective)
The reason I decided to do this was that many of the injection components on my CRV are manufactured by Denso, so I though that after trying a lot of things before in order to solve the pulsing hesitation without success, maybe the same brand sparkplugs could work better with the rest of "the Denso team on my CRV"... and it worked.
When I removed the NGK I checked the gap from them just to make sure that I installed them a few months ago as mentioned in the right way. All 4 was OK (1mm). Hope this help. Alvaro

[HondaOwnr]

I've tried the Denso sparkplugs and it did not help.

After thoroughly testing for vacuum leaks, MAP & TPS sensor, which all turned out to be good, I decided to try a can of SEAFOAM - and it worked!!! My pulsating hesitation has gone away. I followed the instructions and poured the stuff through my throttle body. When I step down on the gas to the floor, there is a smooth pull all the way to the redline. The only slight and short-lived hesitation that still exists is right after switching gears (especially 3rd gear; I have a 5-speed manual) - I'm not sure if this a product of the original design (to limit the torque placed on the tranny), or there still exists a malfunction somewhere.

[magnecor]

maybe SKJ20DR-M11 give more power because that type has platinum tip on ground electrode.
maybe u should check your spark plug condition, type ( standart type is ZFR6K11 , what type do you use), gap size ( standart gap is 1.1mm ).

clean throttle body and injector ( you can use carb jet fuel system cleaner or DCS engine conditioner )

[2004CRV_Rob]

I had the same problem, except that it would happen especially after the car got a little warm. I live in a small rural area in Western MA, where I hardly have to go over 45 mph and I rarely drive more than 10-15 miles. One day, as I was heading out for a long trip, as I started climbing up mountains, the car started sputtering and cutting out. It coughed, lost power, and I had to limp all the way up the hill. Once I got below 35-40 mph, the problem mostly stopped (unless it was a very steep hill).

I read many forums and help sites and most point to fuel line, fuel filter, or fuel pump. I actually have a bad fuel line allowing me to very lightly smell gas fumes if I put more than a half-tank in the car. I was expecting to have to replace a bunch of rusty fuel lines. But then I saw a video that mentioned what THEIR problem was:

VTEC Solenoid - or Variable Valve Timing (VVT) solenoid - aka spool valve. I found the OEM part for $234.95 (December 2023) 15810-RAA-A03. I found a no-name equivalent for $61.95, but the video I watched said his no-name crapped out after less than a year, and the OEM lasted much longer.

Since I wasn't sure if it was my fuel line or this VTEC Solenoid, I went to a local salvage yard and they took one out of a car that they know ran well (but was too rusted to sell). Part plus installation cost me less than $100 (versus $600 or higher for replacing fuel line). THIS FIXED IT! I have driven it for a few weeks up and down Berkshire Mountains without the slightest problem.

The mechanic and I talked about what could've been the problem. He said that the original (bad) part in my car was clearly leaking while the replacement was not. Looking at the part, which is mounted to the upper back left of the engine, he reasoned that it's some sort of oil pressure sensor that somehow decided on how much gas to allow through. And when the car got warm, the sensor thought that it was overheating - since there was a leak in the part - and it reduced the gas flow. Same thing when there was a load, that it sensed the leak and reduced the gas flow as a protection/prevention.

Good luck!