It feels like i'm pressing on a pedal with a brick on the back.

[m111]

The brake pedal will travel a certain distance then stops moving, feels like it hits a wall. The car will slowly come to a stop. What I have done to help, is tap on the brake pedal, then push down as I would normally do, and it works fine, car will come to a normal/quick stop. What do you think id the problem?
Another problem, when the road is wet or snowing, when I hit the brakes (for quick/panic stop), it seems like the brake would initially compress, then release even though I am pressing with full force. The brakes seem to apply pressure once per wheel rotation. The pedal will noticeably push back, and after maybe 4-5 wheel rotations, the vehicle will come to a stop. Its not the pulsating feeling wen ABS is activated.

[jamesslcx]

What year and mileage? When was the last time you had any brake work? It could be anything from the brake booster to a sticking seal. Let us know.

[m111]

2001 with 123000 miles. Brake pads and shoes replaced about 2 years ago. Everything worked fine till recently. On wet roads, I am thinking if the vehicle senses the wheels will lock up, ABS should activate, but instead, it seems to release the brake pressure.

[jamesslcx]

Abs light on? Usually a hard brake pedal indicates either a bad master cyl, brake booster or sometimes even bad brake lines.

[m111]

James, thanks for your input. I am taking the van to PEP Boys this morning for a brake inspection. I will let you know what they suggested.

[m111]

PEP Boys claims I need to replace both wheel cylinders, shoes, left side brake caliper and pads. $740+tax. I wanted get a 2nd opinion, and possibly do the work myself by way of youtube and Eric the Car videos etc. I bought 2 Dormans wheel cylinders for $15 each. I checked with a local repair shop.....185+tax for labor only to replace both wheel cylinders.
I wanted to take a look for myself and revoed the rear drums. The driver side wheel cylinder is leaking, not the passenger side. I noticed the nuts on the wheel cylinders are pretty rusted, but the new one did not come with any. Kind of weird.
I am planning to use a long nose locking pliers (with rubber sleeves) to squeeze off the brake line. I hear the line could collapse. Is this a real possibility?
Regarding the wheel cylinder....if the left side is bad, wouldn't the van pull to one side when braking. Also the pads are fairly evenly worn so I dont think it needs replacing.
I appreciate any feedback.

[jamesslcx]

m111, that's a lot of money for them to fix a problem that you are capable of doing. I've always heard to replace the pads or shoes when a wheel cyl. is leaking because it damages the lining but sometimes I take brake cleaner and clean them real well. Replace those wheel cylinders in pairs though.Yes it is possible for a brake line to collapse on the inside, if the rest of the work doesn't fix the problem I recommend replacing the brake lines if they have been on the vehicle for a long time. Best of luck to you.

[m111]

Thanks James. After replacing the wheel cylinders and bleeding all 4 lines, the brakes are really soft, and travels further. A few days later, I bled them again, starting the furthest from the MC, but same problem. I have to tap the brake pedal, then press the brakes to stop the van...really frustrating. When I slam the brakes (like a panic stop), the pedal seems to hit a wall/brick and only slows down the van.
With the vehicle turned off, when I pump the brakes, it builds pressure.....when I start the van, the pedal drops, which I believe is normal.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

[m111]

Hi all,

I apologize for the late response. I noticed the pads were wearing unevenly. I replaced the disc pads, and the driver side caliper bracket because of a stuck slider pin, and the brakes are working great. I cant believe it was that simple.

Thanks you all for your help.