Steering Rack Replacement...

[Glen_T]

I searched this and the sister forums, but didn't seem to find a thread talking about the process to replace the steering rack on a 2003 Montana.

My Montana has given me 145K miles of virtually troublefree miles, but the steering rack leak that started a year ago is getting to where I can't ignore it. I may try some leakstop in the meantime, but suspect I'll be replacing the rack eventually.

The manual mentions lowering the back side of the engine subframe to let you get the steering box out, but I'm curious if that is truly needed. Anyone done this job and if so, is it not possible to remove without lowering the subframe?

Thanks,
Glen

[gmtech1]

Originally Posted by Glen_T

I searched this and the sister forums, but didn't seem to find a thread talking about the process to replace the steering rack on a 2003 Montana.

My Montana has given me 145K miles of virtually troublefree miles, but the steering rack leak that started a year ago is getting to where I can't ignore it. I may try some leakstop in the meantime, but suspect I'll be replacing the rack eventually.

The manual mentions lowering the back side of the engine subframe to let you get the steering box out, but I'm curious if that is truly needed. Anyone done this job and if so, is it not possible to remove without lowering the subframe?

Thanks,
Glen

No, it cannot be done without lowering the back of the engine cradle. Be sure to disconnect the steering intermediate shaft before doing so, and lock the steering wheel in place to avoid SIR coil damage. I recommend getting a service manual and reading through the procedure before attempting the repair. A front end alignment will be needed after the gear is replaced.

[Tech II]

Disconnecting the intermediate shaft on these vans is not fun....

[Glen_T]

Thanks for the response. I have the GM service manual, and I've found over the years that every so often they tell you to remove/loosen things that don't really have to be touched, and I was hoping this was one of those instances!

What interferes? The input shaft from the steering column? From the pictures, it appears it would be the culprit.

Do the bolts have to come all the way out, or just loosen enough to clear (with the subframe supported)? I'll have to look closer at the procedure - might just live with it for awhile longer.

Regards...Glen

[1999montana]

Originally Posted by Glen_T

Thanks for the response. I have the GM service manual, and I've found over the years that every so often they tell you to remove/loosen things that don't really have to be touched, and I was hoping this was one of those instances!

What interferes? The input shaft from the steering column? From the pictures, it appears it would be the culprit.

Do the bolts have to come all the way out, or just loosen enough to clear (with the subframe supported)? I'll have to look closer at the procedure - might just live with it for awhile longer.

Regards...Glen

Had my rack replaced when the trans shop dropped the sub frame to slide the trans out. Cost me an extra $75 + the rack to have a mechanic (moon lighter) come in to do it while the van was on the hoist. Was the easiest way to do it. I even had to drop the sub frame slightly to get the the sway bar out about 7 years ago. There is no way to get at any of that stuff without moving the sub frame, if only a bit.

[Glen_T]

Finally got around to doing this over Christmas break. The job would be almost impossible without access from below.

Some things I found on my 2003 Montana

- Removing the connection (and MAF sensor) between the throttle body and the air cleaner allows access to the intermediate steering shaft connection. You'll need it.

- Before you try to slide the boot up and off the intermediate shaft, lube it up so it will slide way up into the other boot. I used spray silicone and it was still a royal pain. You have to slide it all the way above the first knuckle because the pinch bolt must come completely out. You'll also fight it getting the knuckle back on the steering rack shaft so you want as much room as possible.

- The stabilizer bar has to come out and is a little hard to remove because on my van, the rear air conditioning lines run close to the drivers side bolts for the mount. Also, plan on replacing the rubber donut bushings on the stabilizer mounts - they'll be worn out. Measure the stabilizer bar diameter before you go to the store, and get MOOG - they are worth the few extra bucks.

- If the stabilizer links have not been replaced, go ahead and do that while the stabilizer bar is out.

- Unless the outer tie rods are relatively new, replace them. I went with MOOG and they seemed very high quality, are US made, and you can grease them.

- The power steering lines were really tight on the old rack. Flare wrenches are an almost must have (18mm on my Pontiac)

- The subframe did not have to be lowered. At least on my Pontiac, there was enough clearance to twist/wiggle the rack and get it out the drivers side.

- Don't buy the steering rack rubber mount bushings until you look in the new steering rack box. My unit came with the bushings.

- Took forever to get the air bled out of the system. The fluid in the reservoir was all foamed up, so I would let it sit until the bubbles were all collapsed, and then started it again, turned the wheels lock to lock, repeat, etc.

Just some things I learned! Hope this helps...Glen