'05 Silverado Brake Pads Not Releasing

[house055]

Hello, I'll start by saying that I enjoy solving problems, but my truck is making me laugh as to the complexity of my situation. I have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab 1500 with a 5.3V8, discs in front, drums in rear.

Series of events:

2011- Grinding noise from passenger front tire. Sounded like metal on metal. Removed tire to find that inside brake pad was completely worn down. I thought, at the time, that the pad separated from the plate, and fell off. I noticed at the time that my caliper was stiff (not releasing). No other (apparent) problems at the time. Drivers side pads looked as expected when I replaced them.

December 2012- Grinding noise from Drivers side front tire. I pulled the tire and found that the inside pad was completely worn. All the other pads looked fine. Still noticed that both tires were difficult to spin while in the air.

Feb 2013- Fuel economy has dropped an average of 3 mpg, since December. Started hearing an intermittent squealing/grinding noise from the front end. Seems to only happen when turning left (that could also be from my proximity to the front tire). I had my dad stand outside the truck while driving in circles. He said he couldn't be sure it was coming from the drivers tire. Sometimes the noise is loud. Sometimes its faint. The majority of the time there is no noise. The check engine light came on and I had a C0035 and a C0055. They are a Drivers side front speed sensor and a Vehicle Speed Sensor. Decided to change the drivers side caliper. I used pliers (yes I know I shouldn't have done that) to pinch the brake line to minimize fluid loss. Bled the line.

March 2013- Brakes have partially locked up on me twice in the last three days. I thought there was an electrical fire in my truck based on the smell of the brakes. I couldn't press the pedal. It was like pushing on a boulder. They didnt completely lock, but I could tell they were stuck. The second time it happened I drove immediately home and jacked up the front end. I could barely get the drivers tire to move. I cracked the lines from the master cylinder and some fluid came out. At that point, after reattaching the line, I could spin the tire easier than I have ever been able too in recent history.

Now, Ive read that the speed sensors on my truck are problematic. I'm inclined to think, since cracking the lines on master cylinder released the caliper, that the master cylinder is the problem. I just have difficulty rationalizing that the master cylinder would cause this problem, as of recently, predominately in the drivers side. It could be happening in the passenger tire as well, but it is not apparent.

I also use the parking brake everytime I park my truck, even though its an Auto. I don't know why, but its habit.

I'm open to all ideas and similar experiences. Thanks

[2000CAYukon]

The brake hose can also be the culprit here. The rubber deteriorates inside making it a 1 way valve. Something to check.

//2000CAYukon

[AndrewTeal]

master is a possibility but it sounds like your your caliper is sticking(rebuild or get a new one/ones if you do it as a pair) and you need a wheel bearing (comes with wheel speed sensor on that one i believe) and i'd replace the line you pinched just to be safe (replace the other side's line if you do)... but dont just replace these things inspect them...remove the caliper crack the bleeder and try to compress them see if they are extremely hard to move....heck the glider pins as well they get gunked up or corroded sometimes ...make sure your hardware isnt stopping the pads from retracting...as for the wheel bearing jack it up and feel for free play up and down

[maxwedge]

See if when this happens you have about 1/4 inch free play in the brake pedal, if not this could be an issue betweeen the booster and master,

[j cAT]

I can't say for sure whats going on because you did not state exactly what you have tried to correct this. I am getting that you just replaced the front pads and it worked for a while then started doing it again.

since I know both inner pads are being worn that says the caliper is the problem.

If one side was bad It could be the caliper hose.

anyway push back the caliper with the bleed screw open dump all the contaminated fluid out of the piston. then try to move the caliper with pads removed full in out does it move hard or easy. if hard the pins are bad and you will need new seals. check pins for rust also machine defects. if easy then the piston is binding this means you will need a new caliper/also if the piston seal is damaged this cal must be replaced. then you have the brake pads. if the pads require a screw driver to force out they need to be replaced or filed down to remove the steel backing plate burrs. these burrs need be removed so the pads slide easy. just did a toyota yesterday ONE rear pad required this filing so it fits securely but not locked in place.


anyway all this binding will reduce MPG and could damage the front wheel bearings.rotor distortions,brake fluid,hoses .

when your done and you think you fixed it go for a very short ride like 1/4mile then check for how hot all the brake rotors/drums feel they should be warm only not so hot to hurt your self.

[house055]

sounds like your your caliper is sticking(rebuild or get a new one/ones if you do it as a pair)

Replaced the drivers side about two weeks ago.

you need a wheel bearing

I removed rotor to check speed sensor and clean it. Checked continuity and it was good. There was no up and down play in the hub. No grinding or noise that I could, with certainty, hear coming from the hub.

i'd replace the line you pinched just to be safe

I am doing this today, to rule that out.

See if when this happens you have about 1/4 inch free play in the brake pedal, if not this could be an issue betweeen the booster and master,

Excellent bit of information. I was not aware of that. There was some play in the pedal when it was locking up.

I can't say for sure whats going on because you did not state exactly what you have tried to correct this. I am getting that you just replaced the front pads and it worked for a while then started doing it again.

With my very long post with repetitive information, I'm sure you looked over where I said I replaced the drivers caliper in this month, about two weeks ago. Perhaps the reman I bought was bad as well? worse? At this point I'm suspicious of everything.

if the pads require a screw driver to force out they need to be replaced or filed down to remove the steel backing plate burrs. these burrs need be removed so the pads slide easy.

They fit snug, but were easily removed by hand.

I was suspicious of the master cylinder because when I cracked the line off the master the caliper released. Any thoughts on this diagnosis?

[maxwedge]

If when this happens you crack the bleeder on which ever wheel is very tight and the wheel relaeases the caliper is not the issue, either the hose or possbly in the abs unit or going back booster could do this also.

[j cAT]

I would first flush out the entire brake fluid complete. you will need a dealership do this as the equipment is not all that common. the abs valves need cycling when this is done.

the master cylinder may be sticking causing the brake pressure to not release at times. my guess is the brake fluid was contaminated by installing engine oil etc to top off.

you may need to replace every thing if this is true.

I never seen that trick of using vise grips to pinch off the brake line hose. just stick a small piece of cloth in the hole. calipers when purchased new did you check that the piston moves freely before install. what about the pins new pins with it ?

[gmtech1]

Is the rubber seal on the master cylinder cap swelled up? If it is then you have brake fluid contamination...that gets expensive. Just something to check, lets hope it's not the case.

[house055]

After replacing the master cylinder and road testing for a week, all the problems are gone. Problem solved. Thank you all for your advice.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by house055

After replacing the master cylinder and road testing for a week, all the problems are gone. Problem solved. Thank you all for your advice.

well I can say that if you did not have the brake fluid completely flushed out you will have this occur again. the master cylinder sticking is from contaminated fluid. seals swell up causing this . good luck.