01 Rodeo V6 - What brand/model spark plugs to buy?

[labrea]

Guys,
I am working on to improve MPG, I only get 12-13MPG (city/fwy)
I've read faq and many threads on the forum but all states different model of Denso plugs.!
FAQ States K16PR-P11
Some says PK16PR11 (sounds similar to first one)
Some others say PK16PR-L11
and recording the amazon.com K16PR-P11 does not fit my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 FWD but PK16PR11 does.
http://www.amazon.com/Denso-3293-Spa.../dp/B0012Q9ZD4

Any suggestions?

[amigo-2k]

That is really low ... I would start with new O2 sensors first.

[labrea]

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

That is really low ... I would start with new O2 sensors first.

I just swapped O2 sensors with Bosch and tire pressure to 40psi (isn't too high?) yesterday.. then ordered new fuel filter, pcv valve from Amazon.com (both Fram brand) and will also clean mass air flow sensor in next few days but can't find right sparks for isuzu..
I changed sparks 25-30k mileages ago with bosch, is it worth to swap to denso? I have CEL on due EGR Valve (which I already cleaned) but will I get better MPG with denso sparks?

[amigo-2k]

40psi is high .... stick with 32psi. The issue is the your ABS will be a lot more prone to activate due to the small contact pad and your tires will bounce more and may cause the ABS to start.

If you only have 30k on you plugs you should be fine. Plugs today are fine for at least 75k (the only worry is the steel treads bonding to the aluminum heads).

Don't forget to clean the EGR tube that exits (opens up) right behind the throttle body. This can get plugged with carbon and then it will cause the CEL to light to make it look like the EGR is bad. There is a good write up and photos in the FAQs (see the link in my sig).

PCV: get use to pulling it every 1k and spray it out with some carb cleaner (it plugs up pretty easily).

Fuel filter: cheap and easy to do, do it every 30k.

Also for 35 bucks you can swap out the rear gear oil with synthetic (buy a paper gasket from Fel-Pro). You may see a 0.1MPG increase ... but over time that 35 bucks will be well spent.

[amigo-2k]

photos

[labrea]

[quote=amigo-2k;7005406]40psi is high .... stick with 32psi. The issue is the your ABS will be a lot more prone to activate due to the small contact pad and your tires will bounce more and may cause the ABS to start.

If you only have 30k on you plugs you should be fine. Plugs today are fine for at least 75k (the only worry is the steel treads bonding to the aluminum heads).

Don't forget to clean the EGR tube that exits (opens up) right behind the throttle body. This can get plugged with carbon and then it will cause the CEL to light to make it look like the EGR is bad. There is a good write up and photos in the FAQs (see the link in my sig).

PCV: get use to pulling it every 1k and spray it out with some carb cleaner (it plugs up

[amigo-2k]

Also, since you are switching out new parts, unhook the battery for at least 30 minutes. This will reset the ECU and it will have to relearn how you drive and it will relearn the new parts too.

[labrea]

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

photos

I removed the big hose which goes to throttle body, then opened up butterfly and tried to spray inside but the spray I have doesn't have tiny extension, I just sprayed behing butterfly and I don't think it did work, I will stop by local auto parts shop and buy smaller carbon cleaner can with extension, thank you for the tip, yes that egr tube is really dirty.

BTW, I replaced the fuel filter, took me almost one hour to remove hoses that stuck in filter

[amigo-2k]

You can also run a coat hanger up the tube or a long pipe cleaner works well too.

[labrea]

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

You can also run a coat hanger up the tube or a long pipe cleaner works well too.

Is it necessary or better to remove EGR Valve while cleaning the tube? I am assuming that removing Egr valve will help carbon to get out from holes that right under the valve?

[amigo-2k]

You don't have to pull the EGR, it typically only carbons up the end of the tube that exits right behind the throttle body.

[labrea]

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

You don't have to pull the EGR, it typically only carbons up the end of the tube that exits right behind the throttle body.

Okay, what about carb or intake cleaner? I went to local O'Reilly and asked o2 sensor carb cleaner spray, The guy found a CRC brand o2 sensor friendly carb cleaner but he said never ever use it with my engine, he states that it's only for carburetor engines, so I didn't buy, what type/kind of spray should I buy to clean EGR tube?

[amigo-2k]

carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors is what you need to clean everything (I use the same brand you mentioned)

[labrea]

Originally Posted by amigo-2k

carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors is what you need to clean everything (I use the same brand you mentioned)

Okay, so I tried that this morning and I guess no success..
Tube is full of carbon and I could only clean maybe 2mm of the end, carbon already in there and it won't melt stuck.... it doesn't look clean enough,
I had 1/4 of carb cleaner can left from EGR valve cleaning job and I used whatever was in the can with an plastic extension but no luck, should I try to clean with wire cleaning brush?

This is how EGR tube looks like after cleaning



Here is the can and extension I used

[amigo-2k]

If you have access to a test tube brush it will help to clean it up a bit. Also you can cut up a wire coat hanger and run it up the tube to.