Pro..Need for some info....advice

[skeeterman]

Ok, here is the story on my Intake Manifold replacement and re-installing the distributor. Have the whole thing...manifold gasket, cables wiring, etc put back together.....with the exception the distributor.

Here is why. Before I removed the distributor, I marked the distr. cap in two areas relation to the firewall.
Removed the distr. cap. Marked the rotor in to areas. One where the cap pointer relation the top of the distributor, and one mark on the rotor next to the distr. front screw hole. Scribed a mark on the bottom flange on distributor, and same mark on the manifold casting....Removed the distributor and when pulling up on distributor, marked the rotor relation it turned counterclockwise to the the distributor. All went well in replacing the intake gaskets a nd silicone job.

Now, here it my problem. When I replaced the distributor into the manifold lining up the scribed marks on the manifold and distributor and lining up the second mark on the rotor relation to the mark on the top of the distributor, the distributor will not go all the way down. I moved the rotor about 1/8 inch to counterclockwise and the distributor goes all the way down, but, the marks on the distributor and rotor don't line up. I'm about 1 inch off. I have stropped here, haven't gone any farther. Anyone have the answer what I should do next?

[skeeterman]

Something I should have mentioned in my post here. I did not move the crankshaft pulley, nor did I do anything inside the engine where the distributor goes. Did not try to line up the oil pump, etc. So there wasn't anything where the distributor goes that was touch.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by skeeterman

Something I should have mentioned in my post here. I did not move the crankshaft pulley, nor did I do anything inside the engine where the distributor goes. Did not try to line up the oil pump, etc. So there wasn't anything where the distributor goes that was touch.

If dist does not drop all of the wa down the oil pump shaft is not turned right.
Either turn oil pump shaft a little to line up or just hold down on dist and crank engine over.

[skeeterman]

Originally Posted by MT-2500

If dist does not drop all of the way down the oil pump shaft is not turned right.
Either turn oil pump shaft a little to line up or just hold down on dist and crank engine over.

After some thought, I used one of my long (18") screw drivers and went into the distributor hole and found by feel the oil pump shaft and turned it about one inch clockwise. Inserted the distributor and it went all the way down and my rotor marks lined up where I had marked. Put all the items, wiring, cables and such back on. Added new Dex-Cool, changed the oil and filter, plus new heater hoses and thermostat. Started the engine, and it fired up as usual. No "check engine light" came on, so it appears all is well. After waiting 30 minutes for a leak to form, that also seems to be fine. Did the 1/4 Sea Foam bit into the vacuum brake booster hose, and rest into tank. After driving the Tahoe some five miles, the engine idles very smooth.

[MT-2500]

Originally Posted by skeeterman

After some thought, I used one of my long (18") screw drivers and went into the distributor hole and found by feel the oil pump shaft and turned it about one inch clockwise. Inserted the distributor and it went all the way down and my rotor marks lined up where I had marked. Put all the items, wiring, cables and such back on. Added new Dex-Cool, changed the oil and filter, plus new heater hoses and thermostat. Started the engine, and it fired up as usual. No "check engine light" came on, so it appears all is well. After waiting 30 minutes for a leak to form, that also seems to be fine. Did the 1/4 Sea Foam bit into the vacuum brake booster hose, and rest into tank. After driving the Tahoe some five miles, the engine idles very smooth.

Sounds like a winner.
Good job.
Thanks for posting bak how it went.