diy temporary alignment?

[northern piper]

So I've got quick struts, lower control arms, sway bar links, inner and outer tie rod ends to install on my 2000. Once this is done I'm going to the shop that I trust for an alignment. I'm wondering if there is a relatively cheap set of strings/tool ... to get the front end in rough alignment. Should I just eyeball it?

Is there anything out there for this type of job? I figure I'm really only concerned w toe in/out as the rest is pretty much fixed.

Thoughts welcomed.

Piper

[12Ounce]

I only use the eyeball method on the Windstar ... as there is only toe adjustments to deal with. (As you have already done, all the suspension points/joints need to be in good repair or alignment will not be totally effective ... not matter the method.)

My method: First drive the vehicle and take note of which way the steering wheel "leans" (left or right) for the vehicle to go staight ahead. All toe adjustments should take the front wheels in the same direction as the steering wheel leans.

Next slowly bring the vehicle to a straight stop on a level flat surface. Exit the car without touching the steering wheel. Eye-ball along the outside face of the both front wheels toward the rear wheels. Is toe-in or toe-out needed to bring the front wheels parallel to the rear? Make adjustments to wheel(s) that add or subtract toe-in by loosening the lock nut and turning the wheel's outer tie-rod end. Which wheel to adjust ??? .... follow the above rule!

Then repeat the entire process, over and over, ... til the steering wheel has no lean and the front wheels are parallel to the rear.

Over time, you can watch for uneven edge wear on front tires to see if further small adjustments are needed.

[lord Kelvin]

Very simple….you'll never pay for an alignment again once you master this.

I've been setting the toe (on all my cars) successfully with a tape-measure for as long as I can remember, using a process very similar to what 12OUNCE described. You just need a "helper" to hold the far end of the tape measure.

Here is what I do:
Working on a level surface (doesn't have to be perfect), roll to a stop with the steering wheel centered. Remove the key to lock the steering. Then adjust the tie-rod until the Fr-Left wheel is "straight" using the "eyeball" method. That is, view from the front of car, than view from the back, and make adjustments until it looks straight. (doesn't need to be absolutely perfect yet, you can tweak later)

The Fr-Left tire and Steering wheel are now properly aligned.
Just need to align the Fr-Right tire (to the Fr-Left) using the tape-measure.

Note: for accurate measurements after making adjustments, you should back-up one car length and come forward again since the tires "stick" to the pavement and that throws them off.

Now, using the tape measure, measure between the front of the front-tires, than the rear of the front-tires. (obviously you must use the same relative reference points) Simply adjust the Fr-Right tie-rod to achieve the alignment spec. You basically want parallel tires, or the fronts outward by 1/8"….since FWD cars pull tires inward. This is an iterative process that might take 2-3 tries.

Finally, test-drive the car. If the steering wheel is off center when going on a straight level road, make a small equal adjustment to both tie-rods to correct, and test-drive again. (I apply white-out stripes to the tie-rods as index marks to track rotation) You learn a lot the first time. The 2nd time it goes really fast…like 20min. I always measure one last time after tightening the "jam" nut on the tie-rod.

Like I said earlier, I've been doing this almost forever, and never had uneven tire wear.
It's very rewarding to cheat the Dealer out of $85….and it's more convenient than sitting for 2hrs while they do it.

[12Ounce]

Glad to know others are beating the alignment rip-off shops. Oh, I know, some shops are legitimate ... and they probably have been around for years ... all the way back to the days all cars had adjustable caster, camber and toe-in. But there are not many autos that have adjustable caster and camber now. Maybe a couple. Some trucks. I used to have equipment that measured all that stuff. Now I just grab an adjustable wrench. I also use white-out to mark the tie rods for reference.

Today, with the eye-ball method, my Michelins go over 100k miles. Maybe not perfect ... but good enough for me.

One detail I would add to either Lord Kelvin's method or my method: Keep a record of adjustments. If one day you find, by observing tire wear, you need to make a "fine tuning" toe adjustment ... it may help if you knew what and when your last adjustments were.

Example of record note:
Feb 2008, 168kmiles. Moved RH 1/8 turn in. Moved LH 1/16 turn out.

[so2315]

Piper,
Make sure you post your end results here. I have not bought the quick struts yet, I will tackle this in 2 weeks. I want to know if you 1.) removed rotor and 2.0 removed abs sensor

[garync1]

There was a way i learned years ago but i have forgot some of the steps. It involed 4 jack stands. A level a string guide and plum bob. I know you had to make some marks on the ground so pavement is the best option. For the most part once measurement were made and marks located you started from there. A bit complex but for the most part accurate.Now with the new alignment machines specs are already entered so the specs are easier to adjust to. Takes all the measuring and fun out of it I guess. LOL.

[northern piper]

just as a reply to s02315, check this link if you already haven't http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=746337

It discussed the strut replacement; quick struts would be quicker from what I read and assume.

I will post results although it may be a month as I'm in northern Ontario Canada, on an open driveway. (Don't even begin with the ranting, I've already got a wife that does that!). I'm thinking 3 or 4 weeks.

Piper

[Windstartled]

Originally Posted by lord Kelvin

You basically want parallel tires, or the fronts outward by 1/8"….since FWD cars pull tires inward.

One would think, but for some reason Ford calls for a 1/8" toe-in on the second-generation Windstar. After numerous tests I surmise that the purpose of this slight toe-in is to correct perceived negative camber that occurs when wheels are aligned straight. Judging by the proportion of Windstars I see on the road with negative camber (roughly half of them) I conclude that a lot of alignment shops are not aware of the Ford alignment specs for this vehicle. And since the negative camber does not affect handling I suspect that most Windstar owners do not complain about it, at least not until the very obvious uneven tire wear appears.