C2500 trans line repair?

[BlueRidgeMark]

Hi, folks. I have a '94 C2500, 305, 4L60E trans, 2WD. Bought it at a gummit auction with 105k on it, and no start. The starter had chewed out a section of teeth on the flex plate.

So, I'm replacing the flex plate, and I manged to round off the lower trans cooler line fitting using a cheap flare nut wrench. After that, I couldn't get it off. No room to get vise grips in there.

I finally cut the line to get the trans dropped.


Now, what's the best repair? I see I can buy a splice kit for about 50 bucks. That doesn't sound good. I haven't been able to find an online price for a complete replacement line.

Can I use standard compression fittings from the hardware store? What kind of pressure does it need to hold?

[777stickman]

Try this link.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cd/full.aspx?Page=112

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark

Hi, folks. I have a '94 C2500, 305, 4L60E trans, 2WD. Bought it at a gummit auction with 105k on it, and no start. The starter had chewed out a section of teeth on the flex plate.

So, I'm replacing the flex plate, and I manged to round off the lower trans cooler line fitting using a cheap flare nut wrench. After that, I couldn't get it off. No room to get vise grips in there.

I finally cut the line to get the trans dropped.


Now, what's the best repair? I see I can buy a splice kit for about 50 bucks. That doesn't sound good. I haven't been able to find an online price for a complete replacement line.

Can I use standard compression fittings from the hardware store? What kind of pressure does it need to hold?

rubber hose that is made for engine oil / transmission coolers will work fine just use double clamps on each side.

the other method would be to make standard flares on the tranmission line and using brake line of the same size splice in.

best not mess with the radiator.

50.oo for a kit is too expensive on a 1994 vehicle.

[DeltaP]

Exactly. Neoprene core hose and double clamps on each end. Regular hose will swell up from the fluid in time and fail. Keep them as short as possible.

[BlueRidgeMark]

Thanks, gents! I'll go with the neoprene splice. Yeah, fifty bucks for a splice kit? Highway robbery!

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark

Thanks, gents! I'll go with the neoprene splice. Yeah, fifty bucks for a splice kit? Highway robbery!

Five bucks for a brass union. No problem with pressure or temperature or chemical compatibility. No delayed problems with abrasion of soft rubber hose, either. I've used inverted flare unions; probably the best way. Compression unions also work fine IF PROPERLY INSTALLED.

I'd suggest removing the ruined flare nut, and replacing it so the next time the tubing has to be removed, it'll properly fit a (quality) flare nut wrench. Replacement flare nuts are readily available at any auto parts store; SOMETIMES it's cheaper to buy a short section of pre-flared tubing and cut off one flare to remove a nut than to just buy a flare nut. Depends on the store.

[BlueRidgeMark]

Well, I WAS going to replace the mangled nut. Can't get it off. Bends in the way and the first one is too close to the flare to allow for cutting that off. It will have to do like it is.

I was at NAPA today and picked up a foot of hose made for hydraulic systems. Rated for high temps, 250 PSI, all hydraulic fluids and auto trans applications. Yeah, that'll work.

I'm glad I went there instead of Autozone or Advanced. This particular NAPA caters to big rigs (right off the interstate) and farmers. If it's a heavy duty or tractor application, they have it.


Today's project has been grinding down and drilling out the old exhaust manifold studs, where it connects to the Y-pipe. There is no hope of getting those things out, even after a week of applying penetrating oil 3 times a day. I'm hoping to start reassembly tomorrow.

Should I apply some Teflon tape or anti-seize to the flare nut? Or leave it alone?

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark

Well, I WAS going to replace the mangled nut. Can't get it off. Bends in the way and the first one is too close to the flare to allow for cutting that off. It will have to do like it is.

I was at NAPA today and picked up a foot of hose made for hydraulic systems. Rated for high temps, 250 PSI, all hydraulic fluids and auto trans applications. Yeah, that'll work.

I'm glad I went there instead of Autozone or Advanced. This particular NAPA caters to big rigs (right off the interstate) and farmers. If it's a heavy duty or tractor application, they have it.


Today's project has been grinding down and drilling out the old exhaust manifold studs, where it connects to the Y-pipe. There is no hope of getting those things out, even after a week of applying penetrating oil 3 times a day. I'm hoping to start reassembly tomorrow.

Should I apply some Teflon tape or anti-seize to the flare nut? Or leave it alone?

on flare fittings or compression you do not use any pipe dope or teflon sealant tapes etc. only on threaded pipe fittings would you use these sealants.

high temp anti seize would be good for the exhaust flange hardware.

with tranny fluid or even other fluids like brake fluid using sealants can break stuff !

It is possible that tranny fitting was installed with "red" permenent lock tight.

[BlueRidgeMark]

The upper one came of with no real trouble, so I doubt there was any Loctite involved.

I'll just put it back the way it was, then. I was thinking a single wrap of Teflon might make it easier for the next time around.

[j cAT]

Originally Posted by BlueRidgeMark

The upper one came of with no real trouble, so I doubt there was any Loctite involved.

I'll just put it back the way it was, then. I was thinking a single wrap of Teflon might make it easier for the next time around.

teflon is a good product to use on plastic/brass pipe fittings

with these type compression/flare fittings after the joint is set/torqued place a drop of oil on it . you want the fitting to stay tight. teflon would cause over time vibs/heat//cold this to loosen..

you just do not use these sealants on those fittings....