2000 GTP brake tube replacement

[CrazyHorst]

So, the tube from the ABS motor to the RF passenger side wheel rotted thru - this vehicle has spent 8 winters in Michigan with 7 of those on the west side of the state where they often use more corrosive calcium chloride...

Been researching and I feel confident about my ability to bend, flare etc, just one thing...each of these lines has a short piece of braided "flex line" integrated into it...is there an aftermarket way to do this other than to flare to a 37 deg JIC fitting and use an actual braided stainless line? Or should I be calling the dealer since its a relatively short run - just across the firewall to the RF side...planning to research both of above.

Would like to use stainless as this line seems to have the worst corrosion (??) not exactly sure why...but also have the thought the stock line lasted 8 years and the car wont make it that long at the rate the underbody seems to be decaying.

Your advice please? Thanks in advance...

[CrazyHorst]

So - just for for followup - bought the part at the dealership - GM# 10335973 which is the complete tube assembly from ABS motor to the RF brake hose inside the wheelhouse. Both tube nuts and a new heatshield where the pipe crosses over top of the downpipe. $46 retail price.

My opinion on the two lines to the rear brakes are that they could be bent from a roll of tubing as they are solid tubes with the usual assembly plant tube nut connections here and there but no flexible lines.

[Tech II]

When I do these, it's almost impossible to make thes lines in one piece because things are just in the way....you can buy straight pieces of various lengths and connect them together with unions....

Usually you don't have to replace the whole line......just find a good section before the rusted one, cut the line, slide on a fitting, and then use a tool to make a "bubble" flare....then it can be replaced with unions and sections......I usually have a 2" pipe in a vise, and then bend the new tubing around the pipe, while holding the original piece next to it as a template......Looks like the original when done, just done in sections....

[doctorhrdware]

When I had the rear driver's side brake line corroded out. I was told by the dealer that the brake lines for my 97 GP were no longer available. I would have to buy a spool of brake line, and I would also have to buy the special bubble flare fittings too. And then I also had to buy a bubble flare tool too. That is one tool that I didn't have. I know that using a splice on the brake line is not safe to use. But that is how I repaired the diver's side rear brake line.

I have the tool that is used to bend the brake line/and or hvac copper tubbing. How I bend the brake lines, is I measure to the beginning of the bend. Then bend the tubbing and continue to where the tubbing is complete.

[Tech II]

What do you mean by splice?

[ericn1300]

Originally Posted by Tech II

What do you mean by splice?

I think you answered your own question here

Originally Posted by Tech II

When I do these, it's almost impossible to make thes lines in one piece because things are just in the way....you can buy straight pieces of various lengths and connect them together with unions....

[doctorhrdware]

Originally Posted by Tech II

What do you mean by splice?

I used a union, to replace the piece of the tubbing that corroded and had pin holes in the tubbing and leaking very badly. Instead of replacing the complete run from the driver's rear wheel all the way to the front of the car to the ABS pump.