96 Park Avenue

[688i]

The A/C blower would not cut off until I disconnected the negative ground on battery and now it will not run at all with battery reconnected. I did a search on the forum and it appears the fan module might be the issue but not sure where it is on this year model or if that is the real problem. The car has the temperature controlled A/C module type. Please respond. Thanks.

[688i]

Okay I found the blower module and with key on and fan on high I have 12 volts on red wire and with the red wire hooked up I have 12 volts at the male connection for the purple wire with the female socket disconnected. Where do I go from here? Doesn't this indicate the module is good? If so why would the blower not cut off until the battery was disconnected and now not run at all with the battery reconnected. Is there a fuse located somewhere for the blower? Help Please.

[maxwedge]

What do you have with the key off? They were a common problem for GM.

[688i]

Okay I checked the voltage the same way I described before with the key off and it reads the same 12 volts. However I cannot get the purple wire to read any voltage plugged into the socket. Out of the female socket the male prong for purple wire will read 12 volts but not when the socket is plugged in. I put a small nick in the purple wire insulation and the 12 volts does not go through the socket so I jumpered between the purple wire male prong and it reads 12 volts not hooked up to the purple wire, but as soon as I hook the jumper up to the purple wire the voltage goes to zero. Does this mean the fan module is bad? Thanks.

[688i]

I jumpered between the battery and the purple wire coming out of the resistor module and the fan runs so it's got to be the resistor module since the fan did not run when I jumpered between the module male prong for the purple wire and the purple wire nick on other side of socket. Evidently the module can produce 12 volts with no load but cant with a load. I hate electronic boxes. Fine when they work but hard to trouble shoot and expensive to replace. Thanks.

[HotZ28]

Often, when the module fails, you will still have 12v output with no load carrying capability.

Click Here & enter part # 15-8548. This is a direct replacement for: RPO A/C AUTO ELEC CONT(C68) 3 PIN/1 PIN CONN 92 93 94 95 96 Park Avenue Blower Control Module Delco #15-8548 GM #12368389. This a A brand-new, unused, unopened, undamaged item in its original packaging (where packaging is applicable). Price: $98.75 List price @ dealer is $214.36! BTW, the module is in stock. Edit: Click Here for even a better price, along with free shipping and in stock.

[688i]

Thanks you are most helpful as always and saved me a lot of money in repair bills.

[688i]

Okay back again and this time the temperature outside is even hotter about 98 and the new resistor module I recently replaced went bad today. I'm not going to spend another 100 bucks just to get a couple more weeks of service. The blower works fine so I would like to know if anyone knows a safe way to jumper out the resistor module and control the fan manually. The car is 15 years old and it's not worth throwing money away on electronic modules that might last but probably not. It looks like to me you could run the red wire at the resistor module to a variable switch resistor inside the car and run it to the purple wire coming out of the resister module that goes to the blower. If I did this wouldn't the existing relays and fuses still be working on this circuit? What size motor and variable resister would I need? Any help would be appreciated because it is really hot for the unforseen future.

[HotZ28]

If the new module failed this soon, you may have a blower motor pulling too many amps. The motor should not pull more than 18-20 amps while on the high speed setting. The module you bought should have a warranty, so check that out. I would discourage you from trying to bypass the existing system.

[688i]

Motor was replaced several years ago and has been working fine since then. I don't have a means to measure motor amperage and what would I do if it was too high? Isn't that why they have components like this fused to prevent excessive amperage draw? I am attempting to see if I can return the module for a replacement but most of the time electronic parts are not returnable. Anybody know how to safely bypass this module?

[688i]

I didn't mean to sound unappreciative but if the motor is drawing more than 20 amps then is replacement the only viable option? Do they make a cost effective amp meter? I am in communications with the seller of the module that failed prematurely but have not confirmed yet whether they will furnish another one. Is it uncommon for these components to fail prematurely as this?

[maxwedge]

You cannot skirt the issue of determining whether the blower is overloading the module when attemepting to diagnose your problem. Most electricians, not automotive, just a regular electrician have a clamp on meter that can test the amps , maybe you know someone inthe field.

[688i]

Thanks and I am sure I can locate an ampmeter but what if motor is drawing say 24 amps on high speed? What is the fix, a new motor?

[maxwedge]

Yes or there is debris in the fan and it is loading the motor down.

[688i]

Okay I'm really frustrated and disappointed at this stage. I got a replacement module for the one that failed after two weeks of being in service. I borrowed a DC ampmeter and installed the second replacement module and ran fan on slowest setting and it was drawing two amps, next setting 4 amps, next setting 6 amps, next setting 9 amps and the next setting was 13 amps for about 5 seconds and then the amps went to 0 and the fan stopped and will not restart. I didn't get to the highest setting but it appeared to be tracking like it would not exceed 20 amps if I had ever gotten there. I am too upset at the moment to verify that I probably smoked another new resister module. Why can't I run a fused wire that is off when the ignition is off to the blower motor and have an on and off switch inside the vehicle to turn off the fan when the temperature is acceptable. This is really getting rediculous. Any ideas left out there?