95 ranger 4 cyl leaking coolant from metal connector above water pump

[95maxsewv]

I had a shop chagne my serpentine belt, water pump, and thermostat. Not long after that the car started smelling like coolant and I had to put coolant in about every month. I drove it this way for almost a year. I recently changed the belt and the thermostat again to fix it. When we took the thermostat housing off the gasket was obviously leaking and came apart when we pulled the housing off. We cleaned it up really good and shiny and put a new gasket on. The guy helping me put the sticky side of the gasket onto the block and then we attached the thermostat housing. I drove home and the temp gauge was up and down. I figured it was just bubbles in the coolant and I got home and added some more coolant. The next day I could smell a little coolant again and the temp gauge was still up and down. I added some coolant to the reservoir as the radiator was full. I can see that the gasket is already leaking behind the thermostat housing.

Do I need to get a new gasket and put the sticky side towards the thermostat housings? Do I need to use some Permatex ultra grey or some rtv sealant made for thermostats to keep this from leaking? Is this what is causing the temp to jump up and down?

[remark123]

It is probably not sealing correctly. This time, make sure that you scrape all of the old gasket material off of both surfaces, as before. Then make sure that the thermostat is placed correctly, usually with the wax pellet towards the engine, and then either use a gasket or RTV, not both, and then torque the bolts down. When you fill the coolant, allow the engine to come up to temperature so that the thermostat opens fully, then CAREFULLY open the radiator cap, (Use a rag to turn the cap to the first detent to relieve the pressure), then fill the radiator tank until the coolant overflows the top. Quickly put the cap on fully, then top off the coolant bottle. Take the car for a ride, warm it thoroughly. Allow the car to cool, and check the radiator prior to starting it. Top it off, and also check the coolant bottle. This should stop the temp gage from oscillating up and down. You have now "burped" all of the air out of the system. Of course... the thermostat housing could also be cracked, and therfore it will never seal properly...

[95maxsewv]

The thermostat actually sits up in the tube so it doesn't affect the the seal. I actually used a really light polishing pad on the metal part and the engine surface and it still is leaking. So I should not put a thin layer of rtv sealant on the back of the gasket? You couldn't have it any cleaner than I had it before you put the gasket on. I wonder if I need to just buy a new thermostat housing pipe. Maybe it somehow got bent when they took it off the first time. I didn't think to check to make sure it was flat before putting it back on.

[remark123]

Not really a good idea to use RTV and gasket, one or the other. It is possible that the casting that is the thermostat housing is leaking, probably a good idea to see if you can find a replacement part. I am assuming that you have checked all other causes...

[sts95rangerwv]

95 2.3 4 cyl 2 wheel drive ranger.

Alright so to bring this back from the dead. I ended up replacing the thermostat housing as the old one was really warped. I had to put a really thing smudge of Blue RTv sealant on the gasket to get it to stay while I screwed it on. It was a struggle, but i got it. I drove the truck and can still smell coolant. I checked and the thermostat housing is dry as a bone. I have a mirror thing and can check all around it. No coolant is coming from that any more. Now I can't see down behind that stupid timing belt cover, but coolant is still leaking down the front of the engine somewhere. The water pump was replaced at the same time we did the original thermostat housing gasket. Is it possible the gasket got wet from all the coolant leaking on it from the thermostat housing and is now leaking? Where else could it be leaking along the front of the engine? How in the hell do you get that plastic timing belt cover off? I removed the bolts I could see and it seemed loose, but would not come out. I could not see any more bolts or anything, but could not get it off to look. I actually broke the top part of it off to be able to get to the thermostat housing when I couldn't get the bolts started.

Any suggestions or links to some documentation about how to get this stuff off? I have a haynes or chiltons (can't remember) and it is worthless. It just says remove timing cover.