One major repair to another, transmission q's

[skooterbum]

well i have gone from a distributor replacement, to a MAF replacement, to a motor mount replacement. all in a 6 month time period.

now after the motor mount replacement, i am noticing my transmission is shifting hard. i have no idea how long my motor mount was broke. the left mount was broke. so with the engine moving on acceleration, it may have hid the trans hard shifting. i never noticed this untill after the motor mount replacement. so now when i am accelerating and the trans shifts, it shifts very hard. it goes directly from one gear into the next. there is no sliding into gear at all. no hesitation. nothing in between at all.

any ideas what is going on ?? i hope i am not getting ready to replace the transmission !!!! i am afraid i might take the sledge hammer to it if the trans goes.

is there any chance the repair shop disturbed something, or knocked something loose when they replaced the motor mount ??

one last thought, there are vacume hoses that run down the firewall behind the distributor. with the engine moving around for who knows how long, if they were damaged, could that cause the trans to act up ??

any thoughts will be greatly appreciated

RON

forgot to mention, vehicle is a 1999 blazer 4wd 4.3 automatic

[old_master]

Is the SES light on?
Did you check the history file for stored DTC's?
How many miles since the last transmission fluid and filter change?
Vacuum lines are for the transfer case, the transmission is all electronic, no vacuum lines to it at all.

[skooterbum]

hey old master, thanks for the response !!!
no warning dash lights are on, no ses, and so on. i think i am going to have the trans serviced next week. i got the blazer at 95000, and it now has 111000. i have no idea if the trans has ever been serviced. i am assuming not. i will have them check history for DTC's too, as you suggested. i cannot believe how many sensors are on cars nowadays.

i put some highway miles on it today, pulling my utility trailer, and it shifted just fine all day. i wonder if the trailer would make any difference on how the trans shifted ?? anyways, everything worked as it should have today.

i did check the trans fluid today, and it is over filled. it was this way when i bought the car. i guess it to be 1/2 quart to 1 quart over filled. i assumed that it was no big deal, so i left it alone. will the over fill cause problems ??

i need advice on getting my trans serviced. i always dropped the pan and cleaned it inside, and changed the filter. put it back together. added the right amount of trans fluid, and down the road i went. now i hear about shops claiming the trans needs to be flushed to get all the old fluid out of it, and no need to change the filter. i think this is absurd. i think the filter needs replaced even with a flush. i do not think they can get all the fluid out with a flush anyways.

so what is right and wrong ???

flush and leave old filter ??
or
drop the pan, clean it, put in new filter, and add fluid to proper level ??

thanks
ron

[old_master]

Over filling is not good, it was designed to hold just so much fluid...that's all. The level should be checked with the engine and transmission at operating temperature, at idle, in park.

DO NOT flush the transmission. The "flush" is nothing more than a fluid exchange. Duriing the exchange, new fluid is forced through the filter, along with any contaminants that are loosened during the flush, which will clog the filter, and possibly oil passages in the transmission.

The proper way to service the transmission is to bring the engine and transmission to operating temperature by driving approximately 15 miles. Shut the engine off and immediately remove the transmission oil pan and filter while the fluid is still hot. Allow the old fluid to drain out, and replace the filter. It's best to use a lint free towel to clean the oil pan, the mounting surface of the pan, and the transmission case, make sure you keep it clean. Install a new oil pan gasket, (do not use any type of adhesive) and install the oil pan. Be sure to use a torque wrench, and tighten the bolts evenly to the proper spec around the pan. Add approximately 4 quarts of the proper fluid and start the engine. Before checking the fluid level each time, move the shifter slowly between park and low gear. Top off fluid level until full. Check for leaks.

Again, DON'T get a fluid exchange or a flush, you're asking for trouble if you do.

[skooterbum]

THANKS AGAIN OLD MASTER !!! i thought the flush routine was not advisable. i can't immagine doing that, and then to not replace the filter?? that is the routine that a shop my stepfather goes to, done with his truck. i will watch the shop that i go to, to see what they do to my vehicle. i will make sure they do not try to do any type of flush to mine !!!

is there any chance a filter change with fluid fill would eliminate hard shifting as i described ??

thanks
ron

[old_master]

Typically hard shift points are caused by something sticking or binding in the valve body and it may or may not set a DTC and turn on the SES light. It could be a shift solenoid, a spool valve or a check ball binding in a worn orfice in the valve body spacer plate. Changing the fluid and filter should be done regularly around 36,000 miles and it's inexpensive compared to transmission repairs. A lot of times it will take care of symptoms like you're experiencing, if not, a visit to a reputable transmission shop will be in your future

[skooterbum]

THANKS AGAIN OLD MASTER !! i am getting the trans serviced next week. a filter change and fluid topped off. none of that flush crap that some shops are pushing on the uneducated population. i hope it buys me some time, as i am not ready to fix the trans, or replace it. thanks for all of your advice and guidance. it is appreciated.

ron