ABS, HVAC and DRL Problems

[gpgt98]

Hey 3100 , I have the same problem with my 98 GPGT. Check the same things? If so I do not have a tester. If I take this right you do NOT take the blower motor out, just unplug? Is there a way with out a voltmeter to check? I know I need to invest in one.

[3100]

Originally Posted by gpgt98

Hey 3100 , I have the same problem with my 98 GPGT. Check the same things? If so I do not have a tester. If I take this right you do NOT take the blower motor out, just unplug? Is there a way with out a voltmeter to check? I know I need to invest in one.

is HVAC control system manual or automatic?
-I need to know the 4th digit of your vin# is it K or 1?
- I assumed that you have manual control for HVAC system so check this:


20A HVAC ctrl fuse
30A HVAC HI fuse
check behind HVAC control switch that the connector is plugged in securely
check for battery voltage at blower mottor connector with ac on and blower motor settings set to medium and high settings. Is motor working? Do you have battery voltage at the connector? While perfoming this tests ignition key should be in run position.

[gpgt98]

Sorry I messed up I am so used to my car ( 98 GPGT ) it is actually my wifes 2001 GP SE 3.1 140,00 with dual manual control. 4th digit is a W. It also has some other issues , like the DTRL dont work, just yesterday the ABS light came on as well as the low traction light
( no I wasnt spinning the tires ). I tried pressing the button that controls the on/off traction, it did nothing. I just checked all fuses pertaining the the hvac including the ones you mentioned. They all look good. Could all these things be a part of another problem, like the ignition harness?

[3100]

Originally Posted by gpgt98

Sorry I messed up I am so used to my car ( 98 GPGT ) it is actually my wifes 2001 GP SE 3.1 140,00 with dual manual control. 4th digit is a W. It also has some other issues , like the DTRL dont work, just yesterday the ABS light came on as well as the low traction light
( no I wasnt spinning the tires ). I tried pressing the button that controls the on/off traction, it did nothing. I just checked all fuses pertaining the the hvac including the ones you mentioned. They all look good. Could all these things be a part of another problem, like the ignition harness?

I will check the el. diagram for 2001 3.1 and will let you know what to check,

- but for abs light check connections at the wheel speed sensors by each front wheel and clean them (male and female side of the connector with wire brush and then use connector cleaning spray from AZ. Reconnect everything and this should take care of that problem.

- I will be back shortly with other instructions.


In the mean time you can check if you have voltage at the blower motor connector. Engine key into run position, fan setting to medium then check for voltage. Repeat the same step with fan set to high and check again for voltage. If you see voltage, then motor is bad and, if no voltage and HVAC HI 30A fuse and HVAC CTRL 20A fuses are OK in instrument panel then go to your blower motor and find blower motor resistor assembly. You should see blower motor relay near the resistor, replace it with new one or use it from your GP if they look the same just to test it.

- to test that HVAC control module (part or switch for fan settings) - go to blower motor resistor, and you will see yellow, tan, lt blue, and purple wires. With ignition key into run, fan set to low use test light (ground alligator clip from test light to good ground) test for voltage at yellow wire, then setting to M1 and test for voltage at tan wire, then M2 lt. blue wire, M3 purple, High Orange wire. Let me know what your results are please. Thank you 3100

this is considered simple testing compared to DTRL, so if you pass this test I will know that you are ready for the more complicated DTRL testing. LOL I know you can do that.

[gpgt98]

Checked for 12V at the connector to the blower motor. It has power. Hard to believe that the motor just quits *poof* no warning. Can you some how check the blower motor?

[3echo9]

Originally Posted by gpgt98

Checked for 12V at the connector to the blower motor. It has power. Hard to believe that the motor just quits *poof* no warning. Can you some how check the blower motor?

You can apply 12v directly from the pos and neg terminals on your battery to the teminals on the blower motor.

Had the same issue this weekend on my Lesabre. Mine turned out to be the blower control module. $24 good to go. Same theory though.

Good luck.

[gpgt98]

OK. So just how can you connect the motor to the battery, wires? If this does prove the motor good then, is the control modual the part where the knobs are? This part had been changed just last year.

[3100]

what did I tell you in my post, if you have voltage at the connector (12+V) replace motor that is where philosophy ends.



what did you expect from blower motor? to tell you " hey I will die soon" ELECTRICAL components just die like that.

[3100]

Originally Posted by 3echo9

You can apply 12v directly from the pos and neg terminals on your battery to the teminals on the blower motor.

Had the same issue this weekend on my Lesabre. Mine turned out to be the blower control module. $24 good to go. Same theory though.

Good luck.

why would he apply battery voltage when he has power at the connector?

[shorod]

It depends on how power was measured. If it was measured using a multimeter, the high impedance input of the meter will not load the circuit to tell if there is any current drive available. You could read near battery voltage but not have enough current to light a test light if there is corrosion in the circuit. Connecting fused jumper wires from the battery to the blower motor could help determine if corrosion may be an issue. I'd suggest backprobing the connector (connect the plug to the motor and measure the voltage from the back side of the connector) to see if, with the blower motor turned on, you have battery voltage at the blower motor or if it drops to just a few volts. If it remains battery voltage, the motor has an open in it. If it drops to just a volt or two and the motor isn't running, the problem is likely in the feed circuit. Since you have manual controls, I'd suggest that you set the blower motor speed setting to the high speed setting when making the measurements.

On rare occasions you could find that the voltage drops to just a few volts and the problem is a stalled motor (napkins sucked up when Max air selected, mouse nest, etc.) but in that scenario you'd probably notice the interior lights (when door open).

-Rod

[3100]

Originally Posted by shorod

It depends on how power was measured. If it was measured using a multimeter, the high impedance input of the meter will not load the circuit to tell if there is any current drive available. You could read near battery voltage but not have enough current to light a test light if there is corrosion in the circuit. Connecting fused jumper wires from the battery to the blower motor could help determine if corrosion may be an issue. I'd suggest backprobing the connector (connect the plug to the motor and measure the voltage from the back side of the connector) to see if, with the blower motor turned on, you have battery voltage at the blower motor or if it drops to just a few volts. If it remains battery voltage, the motor has an open in it. If it drops to just a volt or two and the motor isn't running, the problem is likely in the feed circuit. Since you have manual controls, I'd suggest that you set the blower motor speed setting to the high speed setting when making the measurements.

On rare occasions you could find that the voltage drops to just a few volts and the problem is a stalled motor (napkins sucked up when Max air selected, mouse nest, etc.) but in that scenario you'd probably notice the interior lights (when door open).

-Rod

-Rod, if there was corrosion in the circuit somewhere, corrosion would act as resistance and instead of battery voltage multimeter would show much less. Also customer's complaint was that the blower motor suddenly stopped working. This can't be corrosion then. We don't need to reinvent hot water here. This is simple, it can be one of the two poor connection or bad motor. He can measure resistance of the motor pins, if it reads open it is open, if it reads close to 0 ohms, motor is shorted.

[BNaylor]

Originally Posted by 3100

what did you expect from blower motor? to tell you " hey I will die soon" ELECTRICAL components just die like that.

3100,

No need for the wise or facetious remarks. Please refrain from doing so. Also, please watch your level of advice provided and ensure the person seeking help understands.


The best way to test the blower motor especially if you do not have a meter or do not know how to use one is to bench test it by applying a fused 12 volts and reliable ground to the blower motor input pins.

[shorod]

Originally Posted by 3100

-Rod, if there was corrosion in the circuit somewhere, corrosion would act as resistance and instead of battery voltage multimeter would show much less. Also customer's complaint was that the blower motor suddenly stopped working. This can't be corrosion then. We don't need to reinvent hot water here. This is simple, it can be one of the two poor connection or bad motor. He can measure resistance of the motor pins, if it reads open it is open, if it reads close to 0 ohms, motor is shorted.

Valid point regarding a sudden stop in operation. But, for future reference, be aware that you can have corrosion in a circuit that will NOT be significantly lower than battery voltage but still be insufficient to power anything more than an LED (and sometimes not even enough for an LED). In an open circuit, corrosion will not drop much voltage when measured with a high impedance meter, and you'll see something very near what you might expect the battery to be at. If you doubt this, try it. If you have any resistors laying around, measure the power source, then put the resistor in series between the power source and one of the meter leads. I tried this using a bench 13.8Vdc power supply and a 47,000 ohm resistor. I'm sure I could do this via math and Ohm's Law as well, but anytime I can use tools I'll do so. The power supply measures 13.87 Vdc across its output. With the resistor in series with the meter, the drop from the resistor is only 0.3 Vdc, measuring 13.57 Vdc. That's with 47,000 ohms of resistance in the circuit. If your car battery is at 12.5 Vdc and you measure 12.2 Vdc at the blower motor connector, I suspect you would not flag this as an issue. However, if you used a test light in place of the circuit you would get no light as the circuit would only be able to source 0.2 mA.

-Rod

[richtazz]

gpgt98

You have the classic symptoms of a bad ignition switch/harness assembly. Since you have other electrical gremlins (you mentioned DIC not functioning properly), I would say your issue is the ignition switch. The blower resistor is a possibility too, as both are high failure parts on GP's, but with your other symptoms I'd say ignition switch.

3100, Your advice is sound when speaking in general automotive terms, but there are inherent issues with GP's that render it less than optimum and may cause a person to buy a part they don't need. Also, I agree with Bnalyor about the wisecracks. It's ok to interject some humor in your posts, but not at the expense of another member. One last thing. Corrosion or a bad connection can still show 12v, but not allow the circuit to carry enough amperage to operate the circuit/device it's supplying current to.

[3100]

Shorod I understand your philosophy. Voltage is like water pressure, Amps is the diameter of the pipe. I understand that, but this philosophy never crossed my mind because this problem happened suddenly. "Puff" as customer explained without any warnings.

I can't wait to hear what the solution is.