98 chevy blazer with AC problem after freon charge

[dbldown768]

I have a 98 chevy blazer with what i thought was low freon initially. this was my assumption at first because the compressor was starting and stopping right away. Once freon was added, the compressor problem resolved, however, the air in the car still blows a slight form of cold.

I have tried freon with stop leak as well as just with dye. From what i can see there appears to be no leaks in the coolant lines. The lines themselves get very cold and sweat does appear on them. From what I can see it appears the system is working correctly, just not making into the cabin of the car. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this problem?

[dbldown768]

some said it might be this part http://goo.gl/3Ztu

[old_master]

Automatic Climate Control or manual AC?

Can you vary the temperature of the air comming out by adjusting the temperature knob? It's possible the actuator is at fault but, make sure the refrigerant system is working properly first...

The HT6 compressor has a habit of leaking where the case is bolted together. Usually on the bottom side toward the center of the compressor, and it's usually caused by improper installation. If you have UV dye in the system, you should be able to spot the leak with a black light and a small mirror.

Clutch cycling systems will not operate properly with too much or too little refrigerant. As little as 2 ounces plus or minus can make a big difference. The ONLY way to know how much refrigerant is in the system is to drain and evacuate it to 29"Hg for a minimum of 1 hour, then charge with 30 ounces of R134a. <<<1998 factory spec.

[rasmith5277]

I had a similar problem. My a/c was just replaced from begining to end and I was having temperature issues. Turned out the actuator located behind the glovebox was bad and needed replacing. If that is what you are experiencing, checking, testing, and/or replacing this actuator will correct the problem. If after doing so you still experience the same trouble, have your a/c checked professionally.

[bass_caster]

Originally Posted by old_master

As little as 2 ounces plus or minus can make a big difference. The ONLY way to know how much refrigerant is in the system is to drain and evacuate it to 29"Hg for a minimum of 1 hour, then charge with 30 ounces of R134a. <<<1998 factory spec.

the kit that i bought came with 3 cans of refridgerant. they were each 12oz cans containing 10oz of r134a and 2oz of oil. can i still put 3 full cans in? the 3 full cans will still equal 30oz of r134a, but a total of 36oz of material.

[old_master]

The system requires 8 ounces of PAG 150 low viscosity oil and 30 ounces of R134a refrigerant, so yes, 3 cans will be fine. Keep in mind, the system MUST be evacuated for a minimum of one hour before charging. If you just drain the system without evacuating it, there is still "air" at atmospheric pressure in the system which will affect performance. Evacuating to 29.4" Hg will remove the "air" and any moisture in the system so when the system is charged with the proper amount of refrigerant, the pressures are not needlessly excessive.

[bass_caster]

Originally Posted by old_master

If you just drain the system without evacuating it, there is still "air" at atmospheric pressure in the system which will affect performance. Evacuating to 29.4" Hg will remove the "air" and any moisture in the system so when the system is charged with the proper amount of refrigerant, the pressures are not needlessly excessive.

is there some equipment that i can get to do the evacuation job at home or do i need to brng it to a shop? if theres a home version, is it pricey or reasonable enough to but it and get one or two uses out of it.

[old_master]

Professional equipment, that is accurate and will last, usually runs close to $1,000....

Here's a link to a vacuum pump, it's not professional equipment by any means, but it will do the job for the average DIYer: http://www.harborfreight.com/two-sta...ump-66466.html

Same goes for this manifold guage set; not the greatest piece of equipment, but it will do the job: http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-man...set-92649.html

If you take it to a shop to have it evacuated, you might as well have them charge it too.