Clunk from 98 RAV4 4WD 5Spd Std.

[dandydon]

My wife is experiencing a 'clunk' while driving or shifting and I have been unable to locate where this comes from. I followed all the troubleshooting details in the repair book for front/rear CVs, both driveshafts, center dif bearing, universals, etc. Couldn't find a thing wrong. At first, it started to 'clunk' only when shifting the car; both when clutch is pushed in or released. Now it also does this when you accelerate/decelerate. Also, is it only a coincidence that since she first told me about this, it started right after I replaced both front calipers (old ones were binding badly) and completely bled the system? However, I didn't bleed the clutch (don't ask me why )--Would this be a reason? Any idea what else to try?

[Brian R.]

You didn't say what you did to the propellor shafts. Assuming you only inspected them, try greasing all the fittings. It may be a dry spline that needs grease.

Another possibility is a bad clutch plate. There are springs to take up the jolt of clutch engagement. If they are weak, then they can't do their job and the clutch engagement and release will be too sudden and may sound like you describe.

Brian

[dandydon]

To be exact, this model has no grease fittings on the universals. And according to my book, when they're bad even if there is the slightest movement in the shafts when you try to move them. Also, I'm not too suprised that there doesn't appear to be any plugs I can remove to install grease fittings either. I guess that's typical 'throw-it away-and replace-when-it's-bad' manufacturing.
However, you're incite concerning the clutch springs is well taken and unfortunately, that's similar to what my nephew inferred when we discussed it. Normally I would do most of the auto repairs myself on our cars but after reading the manual, it doesn't sound like something I'm able to tackle. Oh well, I guess it's time to break out the checkbook and see a mechanic!
Thanks for your help--much appreciated.

[cb1000rider]

First, check your axle nuts for correct torque (like 130 ft/lbs).
The most common failure point:


See if this is what is going on:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkEzKkutfcs


Some of you may know me from my work with Megasquirt and the 22RE on the 1st generation 4Runner and 2nd generation of Toyota pickups...

I've now got a little first generation RAV4.. She's manual, 4wd, over 117k. I like the little booger, but I've had a few problems with her.. Like the darn rear end clunk.

As I've owned her, I've gone through the "typical" problems and I think I'm now able to provide some "aftermarket" copies of common-failure parts for the 96-00 RAV4 AWD...

Have a rear end that goes THUMP? ME too! Anyway, we've prototyped these parts and have imported a base set of 50 of them... I'll sell them at less than half what they cost you at Toyota! Just send me an email: [email protected]

Before you ask why this isn't in the classified section:
1) It's more of an informative post.. I don't do this for a living, these parts have not been available in the USA other than through toyota, and I'm selling them just trying to recoop some of my fabrication and production costs.

2) No price here... Just contact me if you need one.

2) I'll give some of the future prototypes AWAY in exchange for a good write up and photos.. Again email me... I'll be posting soon (after contacting mods) - enter your name on a list and it'll be pulled at random.

4) I'm looking for suggestions of other parts to produce... It's a hobby that long term shouldn't COST money, which is an improvement over turbo and custom EFI 4runners, which is a hobby that costs lots of money!


For a look at the OEM rear diff parts diagram try this link:
http://lakebox.dnsalias.com/photos/1...med/410402.gif


Here are photos of our replacement parts:



And I'm working on the "front" part of the rear diff mount - the bushings fail..And toyota makes you replace everything, which is a total waste (think green!!)


Here's what happens when this mount fails:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkEzKkutfcs

Here's the bushing, which can be pressed in and out... Save a bunch of money (still prototype - I have to install at home and test!):

PARTS DIAGRAM