Lumina 93 - V6 3.1

[and0b]

This is not a new problem. Half year ago it happened 3 times and now again. After about 1/2hr of driving engine stops working, just in the middle of driving, suddenly it turns off itself. No hesitation, no jumping, engine stops all control light goes on. When I try to start it again, it is cranking but not starting. After 20 - 30 min. it is starting at once and I can drive again without any problem. Last time it happened 3 times in a week or two. Today it happened again, but this time it stopped again after few minutes. I was waiting 10 more minutes and it started again, but also only for few minutes. I left it for all day, come back afternoon, started it and drove it home (30 min.) without problem. I noticed CE light goes on, just after starting engine and goes off few minutes later, but I'm not sure if it was on or off just before stalling. I checked code - it was 32.
Can some one help me solve this mystery????

[bd2008]

Seeing as you didn't specify what "shut-off" means, I'm going to assume that the engine just cut out. Could be the fuel filters clogged or the injectors are in the same condition. Do you know or can you tell if its starved for fuel?
What else happens when it does this? Anyone?

[maxwedge]

You need to diagnose this onsite, check for spark at the plugs, number one, check for fuel pressure number two, all basic diagnostics.

[and0b]

"shut-off" means cut out - like turning it off just control light goes on. I don't think it is starwing for fuel. I did hear fuel pump after I turned ignition to on.

[and0b]

it is hard to diagnose this problem, becouse normally it runs ok and it stalls away from home.

[and0b]

"What else happens when it does this?" - I did not notice anything

[jeffcoslacker]

Sounds pretty symptomatic of a bad Ignition Control Module or Crank Sensor that quits working once heat-soaked, and functions again once cooled off...both are known for that.

But the code 32, if I remember right, is for EGR...the ECM opens the EGR valve when you take your foot off the gas, then reads manifold vacuum. If the value is out of range, it assumes there is an EGR malfunction. If the EGR sticks open, it will cause it die. If it stays open, it will not start.

It could also be the EGR getting stuck open if it seems to correspond to you letting off the throttle when it dies out...

Sometimes you can tell, with a stuck open EGR they will start if you are giving it a LOT of gas (like 1/2 throttle or more)...this overcomes the vacuum leak, the engine will not idle but will run at high rpm if kept throttled...the effect is it feels kind of like trying to start a flooded engine...

You can try that, see if it will start (or at least try) that way. If so, I might suspect the EGR.

Sometimes tapping gently on the EGR valve when stuck will make it snap shut, and the car will act normal again until the next episode. Tap it lightly with a wrench or small hammer (don't break it!) on the part where it joins the intake...you'll sometimes hear a faint click from it as it seats, and the engine will start right up...

[and0b]

Originally Posted by jeffcoslacker

Sounds pretty symptomatic of a bad Ignition Control Module or Crank Sensor that quits working once heat-soaked, and functions again once cooled off...both are known for that.

But the code 32, if I remember right, is for EGR...the ECM opens the EGR valve when you take your foot off the gas, then reads manifold vacuum. If the value is out of range, it assumes there is an EGR malfunction. If the EGR sticks open, it will cause it die. If it stays open, it will not start.

It could also be the EGR getting stuck open if it seems to correspond to you letting off the throttle when it dies out...

Sometimes you can tell, with a stuck open EGR they will start if you are giving it a LOT of gas (like 1/2 throttle or more)...this overcomes the vacuum leak, the engine will not idle but will run at high rpm if kept throttled...the effect is it feels kind of like trying to start a flooded engine...

You can try that, see if it will start (or at least try) that way. If so, I might suspect the EGR.

Sometimes tapping gently on the EGR valve when stuck will make it snap shut, and the car will act normal again until the next episode. Tap it lightly with a wrench or small hammer (don't break it!) on the part where it joins the intake...you'll sometimes hear a faint click from it as it seats, and the engine will start right up...

Thank you for advice - I will try it next time.
Andrew

[and0b]

Originally Posted by jeffcoslacker

Sounds pretty symptomatic of a bad Ignition Control Module or Crank Sensor that quits working once heat-soaked, and functions again once cooled off...both are known for that.

But the code 32, if I remember right, is for EGR...the ECM opens the EGR valve when you take your foot off the gas, then reads manifold vacuum. If the value is out of range, it assumes there is an EGR malfunction. If the EGR sticks open, it will cause it die. If it stays open, it will not start.

It could also be the EGR getting stuck open if it seems to correspond to you letting off the throttle when it dies out...

Sometimes you can tell, with a stuck open EGR they will start if you are giving it a LOT of gas (like 1/2 throttle or more)...this overcomes the vacuum leak, the engine will not idle but will run at high rpm if kept throttled...the effect is it feels kind of like trying to start a flooded engine...

You can try that, see if it will start (or at least try) that way. If so, I might suspect the EGR.

Sometimes tapping gently on the EGR valve when stuck will make it snap shut, and the car will act normal again until the next episode. Tap it lightly with a wrench or small hammer (don't break it!) on the part where it joins the intake...you'll sometimes hear a faint click from it as it seats, and the engine will start right up...

Finally I was with helper when it stalled. There was no spark when it was cranking. I replaced ICM and it is running like new again. I noticed also so check engine light goes on beginning, just minute or two after starting and after next few minutes goes off. I did clean EGR valve but it did not help.

Thank you for advices.
Andrew

[richtazz]

I'm happy to see the ICM cured your stalling issue.

Your car has the 3-solenoid electronic EGR valve common to many GM V-6's in the early/mid-90's. These solenoids can fail/stick independently of one another causing all sorts of kooky behavior, including a code 32 (Jeffcoslacker, your definiton was correct for a code 32 on this vehicle) to pop up shortly after start-up and then go off again.