I need help with a new '98 Chevy Lumina I purchased please

[knheb]

I bought a 1998 Chevy Lumina LS (I think LS anyway) from a dealer about 3 weeks ago. It came with a worn out remote that would lock the doors and open the trunk, but the unlock button wouldn't work that well. If any button at all was pressed, the car wouldn't start until you could get the unlock button to work (which usually took about 5 minutes of pressing to get it to unlock the doors). Anyway, I guess this was a security feature, but the key would turn, but the engine wouldn't turn over at all. Anyway, I bought a new remote and programmed it about a week ago, and the car has been working fine since.

Until yesterday that is. I know the remote is working great. Everything locks, unlocks, and opens right away, but now my car is just intermittently not starting for no apparent reason. I have read some posts on the forum about starting issues, but I want to make sure of some things.

I did also receive a new key a week ago because I lost my keys canoeing. Yesterday, I started my car up and went out. Drove to Petco, got out, got back in, and it started right up. Drove 2 feet to a different store in the same shopping center, and when I came back, it wouldn't start. I played with the remote several times, called somebody, kept trying, and after about 5 minutes it finally started. Drove it to Wal-Mart, went in for 10 minutes, came out, and again, wouldn't start. Again, played with the remote, closing/opening doors, retrying, and called someone again. Again, it finally decided to start after about 5-10 minutes. This time drove it home.

Stayed home for 3 hrs or so, then went to Home Depot. Started right up when I left the house. Was in Home Depot for a bit, went outside, and once again, refused to start. Tried everything I did earlier, but refused to work. Called someone yet again, and told them to come pick me up. Kept trying for like 30 minutes or so, but wouldn't work. Finally, right before the person was almost there to pick me up, it started. Brought it home, turned it off, had someone look at it, but tried to show them what it had been doing, but it kept starting just fine.

Today, called Chevy. Said it sounded like loose connections between the battery and starter. Said if it was an ignition switch, it probably wouldn't start at all, and if it was the starter, it would probably make noise when trying to start. But it doesn't make any noise at all. All the accessories and lights come on, but nada when you try to start it. Anyhow, they wanted $80 to check connections, but can't see it until the 24th! I need it way before then. So I had the guy come over and check the connections between the battery and starter, and he said it all seemed tight.

Anyway, I was reading something about the chip sensor and security function, and I tried spraying some Electro-Wash in the ignition (couldn't find canned air right now), but that didn't work. I have no lights on at all when the car is running. The only time I see the security light is when I start the car. Also, I thought I would mention the starter is an aftermarket starter (ACDelco), so is probably pretty new. Can't tell how old the battery is, as it isn't punched anywhere. So I have no idea at all what is going on. As I stated before, the car was running just fine, and now is crazy on when it decides it wants to start or not.

Sorry this post is so long, but I thought I would put as much information as possible to see if this can't be figured out. I really need my car (who doesn't?), but my kids and myself are starting school soon, and if I don't have this car, I will have to borrow my ex-husbands prelude with no a/c and tons of other problems in it.

Please help!

[Blue Bowtie]

When you get in the car, turn the ignition to RUN, not START. Watch the SECURITY lamp in the instrument cluster. If the SECURITY lamp turns on for about five seconds, then turns off, the system recognizes the key and should allow the starter to crank and engine to run. If the lamp flashes, the system does not recognize the key.

If the SECURITY lamp acts as it should, but the starter doesn't operate, make sure the gear selector is fully in PARK or NEUTRAL. If neither position allows the starter to operate, the start enable relay (part of the security system) may have a problem.

[Supergumby]

There are two contacts in the ignition cylinder that touch the black pellet on the key to read the resistance of the pellet. These contacts are connected to a two-wire harness that runs outside of the ignition cylinder, and they twist back and forth every time the car is started and shut off.

If the resistance of the pellet is not read correctly when the key is rotated to the ignition ON position, the security system (PASSKEY) will disable the starter and fuel system for approximately four minutes.

After years of this twisting back and forth, the wire strands will crack and break inside the insulation, becoming more and more intermittant, and finally breaking off of the cylinder completely.

Sounds like yours are becoming intermittant. Drop the closeout panel below the steering column, and look for a small bright orange cable. disconnect this cable at the small two-way connector near the high-beam switch. Using a DVOM, measure the resistance between the terminals of the connector on the orange cable with the key inserted. The actual resistance is not as important for this test as continuity/open circuit. Now rotate the key through all the positions, and watch for the meter to read open. If it does, you need a new key cylinder (and new keys - the new cylinder will have a different cut, and you'll need keys with your car's proper resistance value cut to the new cylinder).

Good Luck.

[knheb]

When I turn the key, the security light comes on and stays on. It stays on either until the car starts, or until I turn the key to off and take them out. There is no blinking, and no turning off after a while (again, providing the car doesn't start). Once the car does start, there are no lights at all.

To the second poster, I have to be honest and say I am not quite sure what you are talking about, but I will print out what you said and show them to my ex. He should know what all that is. I am pretty good with cars myself, but not that good . I can change my oil, know parts of an engine, and so forth, but after that, I am not that interested to learn. But again, I will show him and he should know how to check that.

[Blue Bowtie]

Your '98 will probably look a little more like this, with a black cable:



That is a valid test, but if the TL-II (VATS) doesn't recognize the key resistor pellet, the SECURITY lamp should be flashing on the dash.

[Supergumby]

Hey Bowtie, I thought the '98 chev W had a single-sided key in a Saginaw tilt SIR column. Your pic shows a double-sided cylinder in what looks like a PASSLOCK system. What vehicle is this from?

....I could be wrong.

[Blue Bowtie]

The King of Green may very well be right. My '96 W has the single cut key and the modified Saginaw column (enlarged upper bowl trim). That photo is a '96 Rivvy, IIRC, and it has the TAC column and double cut key. I was under the impression that the W's went to that column when the Malibus were added (by '98). So I could be wrong! Top THAT!

We could continue this one-downsmanship (?) forever, but the point which Gumby (That's "Super Gumby" for those uninitiated) made is the same with either column type - The VATS wire harness takes a bit of abuse, and can fail.

I was under the impression that the original VATS (PassLock) would still flash the SECURITY lamp if the key resistance pellet is not recognized. 4-5 minutes later, you can try another one or try it again. (If you're having a really bad day, it might take up to an hour and 15 minutes to try all the possibilities. ) The lack of a flashing lamp is why I initially disregarded VATS key faults, and went for the relay/module.

[Supergumby]

Blue....just comparing notes. I didn't recognize the picture. No 'one-downsmanship' intended.

I was the Lead tech in a Chevy store for almost 20 years. I'm just trying to share some of what I had run accross.


(By the way......Malibu is an 'N' body, uses a PASSLOCK system(rotating magnet instead of resistance pellet) and has the ignition on the dash)