Replace cv axle on a 1996 200sx

[landmapper]

Hey!

Has anyone replaced their CV Axle themselves? How easy or difficult is it? Are there any special tools needed? I got three estimates that ranged from $300 to $600 just to do the driver side.

NAPA has the axle for $68 if I give them mine after the install ($65 core charge). I almost cannot stomach the thought of paying up to $600 for something I can get for $68. Unless its a B**CH to replace!

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

[FixUrNissan]

it's actually gotten cheaper just to replace the axle. The CV boot can Cost any where from 50 to 60 bucks from the dealer i think so at that rate get the axle

[slideways...]

its sort of involving...first have someone step on the brake while you take the axle nut off using a really big socket. you have to remove the 2 bolts on the strut to the hub, remove the caliper helps, anything you can get off helps. if you can, take the hub all the way off, but if you cant at least take the tie rod off the hub. then you need to hammer the axle out of the hub, and pry the other end out of the transmission. id recommend changing the transmission fluid while your down there. installation is reverse of removal.
its kind of a bitch to do so plan on taking a day or two if your not too sure about your auto repair skills.

[Andrewh]

Hmm, took me about 4 hours for both sides. 1997 sentra, so pretty much the same. Also helped a friend with his 96. Was kind of hard in a couple of places.
I also have the bonus of having an air gun, so that helps. I did not pop the strut off, I went the other way. Your choices. It will need an alignment if you pop the struts off.
Drain the transmission first
Put the car up on stands
Take wheels and tires off.
I pulled the caliper and hung them on wire away from the work. You have to pull the clip that holds the rubber lines in place to they move far enough away.
I used a puller for the lower bj and the tie rod end.
That let me force the lower control arm down and let me pull the assemly away from the cv shaft.
If you need to do as they say above, don't pull the calipers. Have someone stand on the brakes, or use an air gun to pull the center nut. Then tap it with a hammer to push it in.
Then pull the assembly away from it so it falls out. Driver side is supposed to be easier to start with.
Then you need a pry bar to pull it out of the transaxle. There is a retaining ring so it won't fall out, so you need to pop it out of the trans axle, and there is a good ridge on the driver side to do it from.
To get the passenger side out, do the same, but don't use the pry bar, just find a long screwdriver and punch it out from the driver side.
I found the retaining ring made it seem like the axles would not go back in. Was a big pain in the but to get them fed back in. Becareful since there is a seal in the transaxle. If you screw it up, you will be back the next weekend replacing it. Or enjoy the leaking trannsmission fluid.
I basically fed it in the hole, then lined it up and took a hammer to it while twisting to get it to feed in on both sides.
Good luck.

[landmapper]

OK. So I successfully removed and installed a new axle, with about a dozen cuss words. When I pryed out the old axle, about a quart of transmission fluid came out with it. Reading the service manual, it says to remove the speedometer sensor to check the fluid ??? I located the sensor and could not figure out how to remove it. Anyone know how? It is a manual trans. I guess that is why there is no dipstick like my other AT vehicle. It seems like I am going to have to use a long funnel to get trans fluid back in once I figure out how to remove the speedometer sensor. What a pain.

When I figure out how to check and fill the trans, I'll drain it as suggested in the earlier posts.

Anyone?

Thanks!

[landmapper]

Nevermind about how to check the transmission fluid. There is a 3/8" drive threaded insert in the front-middle of the transmission to fill with fluid. A 1/2" drive insert on the bottom side facing the driver-side wheel to drain the fluid. No need to pull the speedometer sensor that the service manual suggests.

In all, it cost me about $100 (axle, oil, axle nut socket) and about 6 hours to complete the change. From the quotes I received I saved $400-500. I could probably do it again in about 2 hours now that I know my car a little better.