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| Engineering/ Technical Ask technical questions about cars. Do you know how a car engine works? |
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#1
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Trivia of the day (Can you solve this?)
It has come to my mind that there are hundreds and thousands of people asking questions everyday in this forum. I figure there must be some people out there has learned something instead of just thinking it's another place to chat. Feel free to post your answer with explanation (it doesn't matter if it's right or wrong) to see if you can solve this problem, also to see if there are any intelligent minds out there.
The situation is like this, my car's RPM is fluctuating while idling from approx. 900RPM to 1500 RPM. Check engine light is not on and there is no previous problem exists in the engine. What could this problem be and how to fix it? ![]() I am pretty sure what the problem is already, I will double check and post up the answer tomorrow. Hint: I have taken out the injectors and ran them through the injector cleaning machine and tested, then replace them back. For those who are interested in the result from the machine, the details are below: Flow % - Cyl #1=100 #2=100 #3=100 #4=100 Pintle % (24MS @ 7200RPM) - Cyl#1=99 #2=98 #3=100 #4=98 Leak Down Test- 60 PSI and above (didn't want to turn the PSI too high since the spec is 40-47 PSI)
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Power is nothing without control The fastest driver is the one with skills 95 Civic EX 83 Toyota Starlet 07 Ducati Monster S4RS |
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#2
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is the rpm "bubbling" up and down, or is it smooth at 900, then smooth at 1500, then back to 900, etc.?
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Come on fhqwhgads. I see you jockin' me. Tryin' to play like... you know me... |
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#3
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Quote:
ex. smoothly from 900 rise to 1500 RPM and smoothly from 1500 drops back to 900 RPM and repeats over and over.
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Power is nothing without control The fastest driver is the one with skills 95 Civic EX 83 Toyota Starlet 07 Ducati Monster S4RS |
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#4
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The problem is that you keep hitting the gas pedal with your foot.
You can fix the issue if you stop hitting the gas pedal with your foot lol.
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1989 s13 Fastback Tein HE coil-overs sr20det swapped! JIC Magic Front and Rear Strut Bars Slotted and Cross-drilled Rotors S/S Brake Lines Pivot Lazy eye controller Blitz LM Intake Blitz D1 Spec Turbo Timer Soon to come: Sard 550cc Injectors Blitz Nur Spec Exhaust Blitz Down pipe HKS FMIC http://www.driftmonkey.com (Part Owner) |
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#5
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son of a biscotti... I typed this long-ass response and it didn't post. I hate that.
To me it sounds like a controls problem rather than a problem with hardware (excluding wire connections and sensors). You didn't say whether or not the car is warmed up, or if that matters, so I'll assume that the behavior is the same hot or cold. You've recently cleaned the injectors, so potentially they're flowing better than they were before. If they were flowing especially poorly before, then the long-term injector trim would likely be a fairly high value. I would expect that the short-term injector trim would be adjusted to compensate (assuming closed-loop operation) and you'd see no problem. I'd start by looking at the IAC valve and the circuit that controls it, to make sure that the inputs and responses are correct. dunno... post the solution when you find it, I'm interested to hear what it is.
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Come on fhqwhgads. I see you jockin' me. Tryin' to play like... you know me... |
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#6
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if it doesnt go away after warmed up, i would suspect fast idle valve. I just replaced it on a 92 lude and it was doing exactly what you said.
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#7
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Quote:
Quote:
The injectors were working fine I just felt like giving them a bath.
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Power is nothing without control The fastest driver is the one with skills 95 Civic EX 83 Toyota Starlet 07 Ducati Monster S4RS |
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#8
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check your air filter and PCV valve.
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#9
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id check the throttle position sensor, as well as your idle control arm and your idle sensors.
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Name: Scott Stable Of Cars I have Owned: 1991 Honda CRX 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 2003 Honda Accord 1998 Chrysler Concorde 2007 Honda Civic 1997 Toyota Camry 1995 Saturn SC2 1996 Ford Taurus 1991 GMC Sierra 2002 Daewoo Leganza 1999 Dodge Ram 2007 Honda CR-V 2003 BMW 325i |
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#10
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Ok, here is what I did.
At first I was suspecting a vacuum leak around the injectors from removing and replacing them as I might have damage the O ring(s). The reason why I would think it's a vacuum leak is because: There is no check engine light, which it would be impossible that the IACV is not working plus that I have taken out the injectors. So I started the engine, let it warm up, idle and try to hear for the leak as the RPM speed going up and down, but I couldn't hear any, at this point I have change my mind about the vacuum leak as the problem (I will explain why I change my mind later). But I used the propane method to try to find the leak anyway, thinking to myself that I probably couldn't hear it as the engine noise is covering it. After using the propane method and no leak was found, so I have proven my point on changing my mind on the problem was right. The reason that I changed my mind was because I was thinking that if a vacuum leak that can make such a noticeable difference on idle, there is no way that I can't hear it. So I have move on to my second though as the IACV is probably not working properly. After removing two bolts and two hoses that attach to it, I have taken out the IACV. Inspecting and found that the IACV, the air passage and the screen that filters the air are pretty dirty, so I used some crab cleaner to spray them clean and replace the IACV back and WOW LA the engine is idling properly again. The reason why this would have the fluctuating RPM symptom is because the idle circuit has some dirt buildup causing the idle to drop and the ECU is detecting that and attemps to raise the rpm before the engine die, as the rpm being raise to a certain point the ECU is detecting that the rpm is too high and try to lower it back resulting the fluctuating idle speed. Ivymike was pretty close to finding the problem, great thinking!!
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Power is nothing without control The fastest driver is the one with skills 95 Civic EX 83 Toyota Starlet 07 Ducati Monster S4RS |
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