Starting FAQ Thread for Camry

[Brian R.]

Post suggestions here on topics and references. Also post here any comments or corrections on the information posted in the FAQ thread.

Thanks,
Brian

[quicktwoplay]

Don't post off-topic and/or duplicated posts here.

Brian R.

[Brian R.]

Camry body style/engine history

Keyless entry initialization procedures

Starter solenoid contacts - intermittent functioning starter

Identity of interference/non-interference engines

Timing belt replacement

Normal 4-Cyl vibration at idle in gear

ACIS mod for V6

Throttle body cleaning

EGR cleaning

Half-shaft replacement

[Bossman]

Hi Brian,

Congratulations on being appointed Moderator! You deserve it!

[Brian R.]

Thank you. Any suggestions for this thread?

[camrycurt]

How about some tips on troubleshooting/diagnosing starting problems (no start when cold, no start when hot, etc.)?

[Bossman]

Yes, Brian, just a couple come to mind:

1.) Scheduled maintenance as per the owners' manual showing when fluids, filters, belts & hoses, etc. should be inspected/replaced.

2.) Do-it-yourself maintenance that is actually do-able for the average Joe.

If I think of any more then I'll post them here.

[mrtwo]

Congratulations, Brian.

[Brian R.]

Thanks mrtwo

[sanengo]

Ok Let's get this going:

ACIS vacuum mod

Body Kits Also check out http://www.extremedimensions.com/

Intake (custom) install for gen4 For Gen3 owners, 1MZ-FE engine is same as Gen4 V6 engine, 3VZ-FE (92-94) engines use an AFM and DONOT use the same intakes as the other newer camry's.

Oil Filter

Oil Additives?

Power Steering Fluid

Spark Plugs

Tire Size Calculator for custom wheels

Want more horsepower? Not enough money for a Turbo?
-Custom weld a wider Y-pipe for V6. Brospeed (Bosal) used to sell a header bolt on kit for V6, but it has now been discontinued. (2.5" recomended and a device to lean out fuel)
-Performance headers (Not emissions safe)
-Hi-flow cat with wider downpipe: 2.5" should be enough for i4, 3" for V6
-Exhaust: For those with i4 engines, swapping to the V6 muffler does help if you have other exhaust mods. For V6 owners, custom mufflers don't do much. In general, anything after the CAT won't do much.
-Performance air filter or custom intake: Not a very wise investment for power, but if every bit helps, and you enjoy a more throaty sound, go for it.
-Porting intake plenum, valve job: Very expensive, unless you can do it yourself. Don't bore for higher displacement, make the walls of the intake path smoother. The less bad air turbulence, the more power. Grind down your ACIS valve and clear away carbon diposits.
-CLEAN YOUR ENGINE TO REGAIN LOST POWER! Carb cleaner and seafoam to start with. GET RID OF ENGINE CARBON! Believe it or not, spraying a small stream of water through the brake line of your engine can clear away carbon diposites VERY efficiently. (Just don't hydrolock your engine, if the engine is choking too much push on the butterfly valve on your TB)
-Camry's run very rich, lean out the engine by a couple degrees for more power. Remember OBD-II a/f adjustments are never permanent. For OBD-I 3vz-fe owners, turn the large ring gear inside the AFM clockwise 2-4 clicks for more power and response.

Theses are just general tips to gauge interest. If you guys want to know more about any of the above, please post and I may write up a guide or give you guys more information about it.

[Brian R.]

Please provide more information - I am in the process of creating the FAQ thread now.

Thanks

[Brian R.]

Split boots, half-shaft installation

[Toysrme]

I read the FAQ, and I swear about all of anything performance oriented is related to me in some way. LoL!




Aaaaaanyways.

Porting the upper intake manifold doesn't really do jack. I've always told people to take the throttlebody off and knife edge the 1/2" flat surface behind it, but it doesn't make any impact on anyhting near stock. The upper intake air chamber splits the intake into a top and bottom section. The split is after thr throttlebody, and very un-aerodynamic.



Better pics than copying my old setup is me correcting someone else's attmept. What we are doing, is plugging the ACIS Actuator into the E-vacuum port on the throttle body. This way, instead of the nasty ECU programming controlling the ACIS valve (>4000rpm, >/= 50% TPS, the car must be moving). It will open any time the throttle plate is open, and at any rpm. They should snap shut around 1250-1500rpm.


You can get small plastic T's at wall-mart fish sectio. About 50 cents for a two pack.







This will improve the power around the 2000-4000rpm band.

[Toysrme]

For any vane-flap Toyota vehicle. 22RE's, 3S's, VZ blocks... And most other AFM vehicles


This is a vane-flap air-flow meter. You slice the silicon glue off the top, and pry the black plastic top off Exposing the innards.



An AFM. It is not a MAF... They measure the VOLUME of airflow, by a flap, held closed by spring tension. On top of the flap is a small arm, which rotates along what essentially is a pointometer.

The ECU sends an exact voltage to the AFM, and reads the flap. It also reads a small air temperature sensor in the AFM housing. From this -> an AFM can accurately meter the MASS of airflow. (the important part!)







1) Reset the ecu - pull the EFI fuse for one nanosecond and replace it
2) Cut glue
3) Pry UP plastic top
4) PAINT THE STARTING COG
5) Rotote cog clockwise


3 clicks, 5 clicks, 7 clicks seem to be where people like. As soona s you get over the shock factor, most of the gain is 5-7 clicks.





You'll gain mid rpm range power
You'll gain top rpm range power under a high load (i.e. top gear-top speed runs)
Don't be surprize if you rev back to back in park and it's a tad slower from less fuel -> it will be noticeably faster on the street when there is a load on the engine.

[sanengo]

Thanks brandon for coming here, I've been vacationing recently. Like I've said, you know more about the 3vz than anyone else I know . That ACIS mod is Majestiking's from TN? Is it me or does he still have the VCV connector connected (brown electrical plug).

After several trials, I noticed that only the plug on top of the TB that's closest to the driver seat provides enough vacuum to shut the ACIS at 1200-1500rpms. The lower vacuum plug shuts ACIS at 3500rpms.

Eck I'm trying to solve a transmission problem, that gear grinding is really bugging me now. Either has to do with transmission fluid or gears with cracked teeth . I'm hoping its the former.