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#1
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Advice please
Ok, so I didnt get as much back for my financial aid as I expected, I was going to pay a shop to rebuild my engine for me, and port it, and put it all back together. But with the little amount of money I got, I wont have enough to pay for the labor and parts. I have plenty though to pay for parts, and a hoist and stand. What i'm getting at is, I spent 2 years getting a degree in auto engineering, and im FAIRLY confident that I could rebuild the engine myself. I rebuilt engines in class, but never one by myself with no help from either a class mate or instructor. I've come a long way since that class and know my way around an engine a little more than I did then. Im wondering, if you guys think that I'd be up to it so long as I follow either a build thread or a manual? I mean I can take things apart according to manuals and get them back together with relative ease. Is there anything that could pose a potential problem with this that I might not be able to handle, or is it decently easy to do? Remember, it's my first time doing it alone lol. And i'm sure if I get really stumped I can ask you guys for help...I was thinking I could even do a build thread myself and take photos of the progress and maybe everyone could offer imput...
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Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
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#2
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Re: Advice please
I too have never done a rebuild but whenever I see someone ask a question like this the answer is usually to just do as much research as possible and follow a manual like a haynes or chiltons. I can't wait to rebuild a 4G63. And definitely do a project thread, I'm interested in seeing lots of pics.
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#3
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Re: Advice please
Its really not that hard dude. I rebuilt the motor in mine and its still running strong. Was the first motor I have ever rebuilt. Just take your time and triple check everything. You will be paying someone to do the machine work so really all you have to do it assemble it.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#4
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Re: Advice please
Well, heres a few things that worry me lol.
1)Do I need to remove the trans and engine all at once? And then remove the trans from the block? 2)What machine work will I need to have done? 3)Based on what happened(oil leak, engine ran low on oil and started knocking) what do I need to look for? Do I need to replace ALL the bearings? 4)Clean up- I can't remember exactly the process, but will I need to clean the block when its all torn down? what about the internals? Reading thru my haynes, these are the only things that stand out that I don't know for sure on...I appreciate it guys!
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
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#5
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Re: Advice please
I prefer a Chilton's over a haynes but other guys on here my suggest another manual I don't know about. Chilton's manuals seem to give more detail and more pictures.
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#6
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Re: Advice please
You can pull the block with out taking out the tranny. I always leave the tranny in my car when i pull the motor because I dont want to remove the axles and tranny fluid. If you ran it out of oil you spun bearings on the crank. Take it to a machine shop and he will turn it, then just use undersized bearings and you will be fine there. I would also take the block to him and get him to check the cylinder bore. You may just be able to hone it and you will be fine but depending on the wear he may have to bore it out some which would require larger pistons so wait to order those. Also have him clean the block and maybe clean the head surface.
Then you will probably want to rebuild the head will your in there. I just pulled the valves out of my head and bought new ones. Gave them to the machine shop and he regrinded the valve seals and valves accordingly. You may want to check out my build thread as alot of this info is in there.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#7
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Re: Advice please
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#8
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Re: Advice please
I priced full machine work for a small block chevy I was planning on building a few months ago. I think it was around 300-350. That was including putting the rods on the pistons.
__________________
Caleb vanilla gorilla '99 Spyder 2.4 5-speed - Red/black,14b,slow '96 Eclipse GST 5-speed - Paint www.myspace.com/ballsoutperformance |
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#9
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Re: Advice please
Ok Ill check out your build thread silver, but, All I have to go by in person is my haynes...I mean it can be done with this right?
The first step calls for relieving the a/c system, by taking it to someone to do this....is this nec.? If I get the crank turned, how do I know which size bearings to use on it? Do I have to buy different sizes and try them each or how do I do this? Removal without the trans....would mean that I just unbolt the housing from the motor and move it over out of the way of the engine? Can I use an oem throw out bearing with an aftermarket clutch setup? Im thinking this might help with the noisy tink tink tinking i have coming from the new clutch... Do I need to replace the oil pump with a new one while im int here? Thanks guys
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
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#10
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Re: Advice please
Dont remove the ac or power steering. Just unbolt it and move it out the way. Unbolt the tranny and separate both, it will take some work to remove to get the motor out but when u do put the tranny mount back in to support the tranny when moving the car around. It will keep it off the ground and keep your axles in line.
I just ordered bearings from the machine shop since he knew exactly which ones i needed. Make sure to plasti gage the bearings when you do assemble the motor tho. Research that in the book. You need to replace oil pump, water pump, all of the timing belt components which include idler pulleys, tensioner. I think my machine work cost 200 for the block and 45 for the head.
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#11
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Re: Advice please
Everything I needed to know, thank you so much man. "whew"
Ok, so, bought an engine hoist and stand today, almost broke my back moving the f*cker lol. Now when I pull the engine, i'll need to take it completely apart, head also, and take the block, crank, pistons, head, and valves to the shop? Anything else?
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
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#12
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Re: Advice please
Also, I just got to the step where I need to relive the fuel system pressure, which calls for disconnecting the wires from the pump in the back seat, and running the engine until it cuts off. This isnt possible for me obviously...is there an alternative means?
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
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#13
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Re: Advice please
If the car hasn't been running the fuel pressure has leaked down by now. Dont need to do this
__________________
98 Eclipse GS Turbo Megasquirt 2 - Holset HY35 Turbo - Built motor - P&P Head and Intake - 3" Turbo back - FMIC - Greddy RZ BOV - Walbro 255 - Aeromotive AFPR - 650cc Injectors - Fidanza Flywheel - Zoom clutch - 13" Cobra Front Brakes - AEM WB - Devilsown meth injection - 3.55 Final Drive gear ratio 1981 Chevy Scottsdale 1987 Nissan 300zx - Chump Car 2001 BMW 325i - DD |
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#14
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Re: Advice please
Worst case scenario, when you disconnect the line from the rail, or pull the rail from the engine, small amount of fuel will run out. There are alot of things in the manual you can disregard when tearing the car down.
__________________
Caleb vanilla gorilla '99 Spyder 2.4 5-speed - Red/black,14b,slow '96 Eclipse GST 5-speed - Paint www.myspace.com/ballsoutperformance |
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#15
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Re: Advice please
Ok, gotcha.
__________________
Hahn stage IV S16G-Portfueler w/400cc inj-1:1 Aeromotive FPR-Split sec fuel controller-Walbro 255lph FP-240cc inj-Hahn fuel mapper-JE pistons(8.1:1)-Total Seal rings-Eagle rods-ARP studs-AEM filter-C&R radiator-Hahn 3''downpipe & cat-Thermal Eng. 3''catback-LUK clutch & flywheel-Eibach springs-Eibach offset bushings-KYB GR2 struts-Strut bars-Lower rear tie bar-GReddy boost controller-Apexi T timer-Powerslot rotors-Gloshift gauges |
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