Receiver Hitch

[tblake]

Hey Gentlemen!

1997 Chev k1500 4x4 extended cab short box.

The receiver hitch on the back end has seen its better days. I live in MN where the roads in the winter are always salty so we get lovely rust.

Before the snow flew I coated the hitch in rustolium, but it seems like its all "pack rust" where you could go grab a handfull and it will chunk off in your hand.

I would like to get a new hitch installed before the spring time and the lakes thaw. I just dont trust pulling a boat with the hitch the way it is.

Wondering if you guy's could recommend any direct bolt on ones. I have a 100.00 oreilley's gift card that will start having money deducted this month because of inactivity that I should probably use.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[jdmccright]

Unless you're pulling a big-ass boat, I think a Class III hitch (5,000 lb)would be good enough. I'd also check your owner's manual to see what the truck can handle. If it is more than 5k, then you might consider going up to a Class IV hitch (up to 12,000 lbs). Yes, they are more expensive and probably overkill, but you're better off having the added ability (up to your truck's weight rating) even if you never use it.

Most reputable brands are probably good (Reese and Draw-Tite are most known), just make sure the paint used is good quality job (typically powdercoated but the real good jobs are electrocoated) and the ends of the cross-bar are sealed to prevent moisture from getting in. This is usually where paint isn't applied, corroding it from the inside out. Provisions for the trailer's electrical connector are a plus too. Hope this helps!

[tblake]

Sounds good. I'm sure a class 3 would be just fine. What do you think of the curt brand? Any good, or junk that rusts out fast?

[jdmccright]

Don't really know one way or another. Curt's a reputable brand alongside with Reese. Draw-Tite is probably a step down, but still decent. Most local shops will buy rebranded hitches with cheaper paint jobs from these companies or from China. I'd start and stick with the top two, but I wouldn't rule out Draw-Tite outright.

Keys to spotting a hitch made for long lasting resistance to rust are a good smooth paint job (electrocoat is better but rare...powdercoats are common) with no bare spots, orange peel, or other defects. Also, check the quality of the metal edges and welds. Good paint prep will round the sharp edges and remove any sharp weld edges and spatter so that the paint won't end up being too thin in those areas. I guarantee you those cheap ones from China won't bother with this detail.

Finally, ask for the kind of paint applied...polyester, acrylic, epoxy. Epoxy is the most rust resistant but will fade and chalk over time, eventually wearing away (ever notice on painted black steel rims that they are all rusted only where the wheel cover's holes are? That's where the epoxy has been weathered away). At the other end acrylic is good for weathering but poor in corrosion resistance. Polyester is in the middle.

[j cAT]

the trailer hitches I have had good service from are the reese class III-IV hitches..these fit well no drilling and have a good coating..with a lifetime warrantee..I got 16yrs out of one...rust belt ...

your vehicle I believe is the the reh 51022 part ...125.oo approx...

with the finish I would pre paint the trailer hitch or In the spring drop hitch and repaint the hitch with a few coats of the rustolium paint..I have used this on the OEM hitch and it has kept the rust under control.

use of another product on the interior sq. channel is the rusfre undercoating product , which will prevent rust in the inner channels , this is used elsewhere on the under carriage of my vehicles. this product works...can not be painted over. It is a tar like coating very flexable and resistance to all road chemicals..