Becoming a Auto DIYer and other questions

[1sttime_owner]

Hey all,

I have a 2000 Grand Prix (not supercharged, 125K miles) that has a list....or what some mechanics as claiming as a list of issues and I wanted to see how hard would it be for me to learn how to do my own repairs because the other option is to spend a lot of money (at least $2000) at a auto repair shop. In trying to keep this initial post short(I can provided on a case by case basis), how labor intensive are the jobs listed below? Would purchasing the tools for the jobs itself be equivalent to just paying for it?

1) I have an Oil leak and after doing much reading, I gather that I have to change the Lower Intake Manifold Gasket. I've been quoted a cost of btw $400 - $600 and $350 - $650 by two different shops. I don't know why the huge range but I noticed that the parts costs on $100 or so (Napa & Pepboys), so of course I've alarmed by the difference in costs. Is it a labor intensive job and can a newbie with no tools do this? Oh Firestone's quote was $1031, where the parts was ~$200 and the rest was labor. My main concern is whether coolant has leaked into the engine.....how do I determine this? To my untrained eye, my coolant level has not changed drastically.

2) Next, my Service Engine light is on for a while now and the code reading is P0440. I noticed that when I start my car, I smell gas and sometimes I hear a hissing sound.

3) Serpentine belt. Its time for a change, car seems to sound weird, like I can hear the belt turning what I step on the gas hard. I took a look and it does have quite a few deep cracks. Another thing, is there another belt? I was only aware of the Serpentine, but Pepboys claims that I need to change another belt, but the charge that I declined was for 2 Serpentine belts.

4) I think I need new front struts......I still have the original ones. How can I determine if I really do. Right now when I go over 50-55mph, I initially thought that the car vibrates but I really paid attention last week since I had to get on the highway (been avoiding it) and I felt like I or I should say my legs felt the vibration more than anything else. I don't know if that make sense, but I didn't feel like the car was shaking as much as I ....was? I know my tires are near the end of life, so could that be it?

5) Screeching sound when I make a sharp turn or U-turn to the right. I just check all my fluid levels and Power Steering fluid is low, so maybe that is the problem? Or it could tire related?

6) This doesn't happen a lot, but since I was forced to drive long distance last week while still avoiding highways. After a stop, when pressed the gas pedal my car starts going slow but then I can ...umm....hear/feel the gears shift and then off it goes. Now this happened at almost every stop on Thursday on my way home from work (I added Techron fuel cleaner in the morning), but it was gone on Friday and was okay before that. Its happened in the past (as far back as 2003) mostly when I let the gas tank get really low but its very random.

So, at this point, if I have to pay for all of these things, it would seem like I may as well trade this car in for a new one even though I don't want to. If I can get my brother to help and these are things that we could work on together (with no car repair experience), then I am all for it.

Also I was planning to pay for an thorough car inspection (like the one you can get before buying a used car), so that it can help with my "Keep-Old or Buy-New-Car" decision.

What for you guys think?

Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post.

[1sttime_owner]

Also what's the opinion on using Lucas Transmission Fix for the transmission. Could it help with the rough shifting?

[richtazz]

Welcome to AF.

I will let troy1 (our trans expert) or someone else decide on whether or not you should use lucas. I've used it with success as a bandage to get by, but I'm not sure if there is a reason to avoid it.

On your list.

1. The LIM and UIM gaskets are a known issue on these cars with the 3800 VIN-K. The job is not difficult, but if you're a total novice to basic car mechanics (not just to the 3800 specifically), I would not suggest you attempt it. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in in/lbs to do the job correctly.
2. P0440....Evaporative Emission Control System malfunction. This is a pretty generic code and could be a result of anything from a loose/leaky gas cap to a cracked vent hose or other component.
3. The serpentine belt is very simple and easy to do. The belt is removed by putting a wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt, and rotating the spring loaded tensioner to relieve the tension. Install the new belt around the pulleys using the same routing, and you're done in less than 5 minutes.
4. If the hydraulic part of the strut has failed, you should be able to see fluid leakage. You can also try the bounce test. Get the car bouncing and then let off, if it bounces more than once after you stop the struts are bad. If the strut mounts are bad, they can cause a creaking/cracking while turning the wheel or a clunk while hitting bumps. To replace the struts, you'll either need to buy complete "quick struts" which include the strut, spring and mount preassembled, or you'll need a spring compressor to transfer the coil spring over to the new strut and mount.
5. Without hearing the sound, this one is hard to diagnose for you. If it's a metallic screech, it could be a hub bearing, if it's more a squeal, it could be a power steering issue or tires.
6. Same as #5. No offense, but your description is kinda vague, so it's hard to help without being on-site.

[1sttime_owner]

Originally Posted by richtazz

Welcome to AF.

Thank you.

Originally Posted by richtazz

I will let troy1 (our trans expert) or someone else decide on whether or not you should use lucas. I've used it with success as a bandage to get by, but I'm not sure if there is a reason to avoid it.

Okay.

Originally Posted by richtazz

1. The LIM and UIM gaskets are a known issue on these cars with the 3800 VIN-K. The job is not difficult, but if you're a total novice to basic car mechanics (not just to the 3800 specifically), I would not suggest you attempt it. You will need a torque wrench calibrated in in/lbs to do the job correctly.

Yeah, I found a write-up in the Maintenance section and got the same feeling......this is no novice job.

Originally Posted by richtazz

2. P0440....Evaporative Emission Control System malfunction. This is a pretty generic code and could be a result of anything from a loose/leaky gas cap to a cracked vent hose or other component.

Where should I start.....change the gas cap and then see if it clears and if not move onto the next possible culprit?

Originally Posted by richtazz

3. The serpentine belt is very simple and easy to do. The belt is removed by putting a wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt, and rotating the spring loaded tensioner to relieve the tension. Install the new belt around the pulleys using the same routing, and you're done in less than 5 minutes.

Now is there an AF youtube channel where I can watch this. I hear and follow what you saying, but I think seeing it would drive the point home or some sort of Pontiac Grand Prix diagram

Originally Posted by richtazz

4. If the hydraulic part of the strut has failed, you should be able to see fluid leakage. You can also try the bounce test. Get the car bouncing and then let off, if it bounces more than once after you stop the struts are bad. If the strut mounts are bad, they can cause a creaking/cracking while turning the wheel or a clunk while hitting bumps. To replace the struts, you'll either need to buy complete "quick struts" which include the strut, spring and mount preassembled, or you'll need a spring compressor to transfer the coil spring over to the new strut and mount.

No, fluid leaks. I will try the car-bounce test when I get home and I do hear the clunk sound when I hit bumps. I watched my old mechanic change the rear springs (one just broke in December), so I have a a bit more confidence in my ability to do this.

Originally Posted by richtazz

5. Without hearing the sound, this one is hard to diagnose for you. If it's a metallic screech, it could be a hub bearing, if it's more a squeal, it could be a power steering issue or tires.

Its more like a squeal. I checked all my fluid levels and I'm low on power steering fluid which is odd since I thought that Pepboys checked all fluid levels 2 weeks ago.

Thanks again for your help.

[troy1]

So what is the transmission issue that you have?

[1sttime_owner]

Originally Posted by troy1

So what is the transmission issue that you have?

Hello troy1,

I don't know if I am using the correctly terminology to explain this but here it goes. Occasionally, when I step on the gas pedal after a stop, it seems like my car hesitates a bit and then I hear/feel a sound that is similar to when a gear is being changed in a car with manual transmission. At that point, the car picks up speed. I noticed that if I press on the gas lightly and move at a snail pace at that "start", I don't necessarily get this.

I don't know if this is an issue as this has happened before in the car's earlier years and it normally stops happening. I got concerned since this happened all day Thursday on my way home from work, but its been fine ever since. I am trying to catch any problems now and not later when its too late. In the past, I noticed that this used to happen when I was running low on gas, so I made it a point to stop doing that. Its been an on and off thing, but last week's occurrence was bothersome. Truth be told, I haven't done a transmission flush in years, I thought I did it back in 2005, but shamefully when I pulled my records recently, I discovered that it was way back in .....2002 I think. What's your opinion on a transmission flush? I've heard that it could be dangerous. BTW .....(I hate to sound stupid), Isn't Transmission service(change filter, drain &change fluid, etc??) different from a Transmission flush.....because I think I did both in 2002, I'll have to check my records what I get home.

Thanks.

[1sttime_owner]

Quick Update:

So I had my car inspected (by 2 different people) and so far good news even though they were a bit inconsistent.

1. Both recommend replacing the Upper Intake Manifold and Valve Cover gaskets. Both don't think that the LIM is leaking, but I was considering replacing it anyway... is that a good idea?

2. I changed the gas cap, cleared the code and it came back. I just went to Autozone and through my urging we browsed the umm.... Freeze Frame Data or something and it specifically stated that the P0440 code was caused by the Throttle Position Sensor. I am beginning to suspect this is the key to the transmission issues. Will expand later.

3. Resolved.

4. Both state that the struts are not the cause of the vibration and it passed the bounce test. I still feel like the rear does do one extra bounce and then it stops. I just got my tires checked and balanced and there was a nail in one of the tires which explains when I had to put air in it quite often and one does have an small area where the wear is bad....probably from hitting a pothole, Chicagoland road are terrible, just terrible. It drives much better now, I still need new tires which I will tackle after I get the UIM & trans stuff settled. Clearly Pepboys just rotated my tires without inspecting them because they should have seen this.

5. Both stated the control arm is the cause of the screech when I turn right and the "clank" sound I hear on the left when I hit bumps. Oddly one person claims the Left control arm is bad but the other claims the Right control arm is bad. I am a bit puzzled why they are off on this one. Oh and my stabilizer bar is cracked at joint area, so its recommended I change that.

6. This is my main concern right now. One mechanic pulled a P1811 code but he said that it was Passive. He recommended adding Seafoam to my car, driving it for a week and then doing a Trans flush (which consisted of him draining the fluid while the car was running). He didn't drop the pan and change the filter. I only left the Seafoam in for 3 days cos I was worried since the can said leave in for only 5 mins), but right after the flush, the hard-shifting that use to happen on 1-2 only now happens on all (1-2, 2-3, 3-4). He claims the computer (PC solenoid) is readjusting its readings or something.

I have read up on the P1811 and I don't know if my symptoms are really P1811 related. For one, why was the code Passive (meaning it only happened once on a trip) when I know its happened consistently for 1.3 hours during my drive home from work. The car doesn't shudder, there's no erratic or inconsistent shifting, there's no whirling sound. This hard-shift/bucking feeling happens only on acceleration and that's it, it still happens randomly and in random combinations (varying from 1-2 only, 1-2 & 2-3, or all three) and but I still believe that it got worse after I put Techron Fuel Injector cleaner in my car. Now with the new discovery that the Throttle Position Sensor causing the P0440 and I hear(and read) that TPS malfunction could result in a bucking feeling....I wonder...Does TPS affect the transmission shifting? In general, my car just seems to be slow on acceleration, just sluggish and occasionally while idling, it seems like it want to die then it picks back up......actually months ago, it did just that, abruptly die at at intersection.

I'm going to stop now, since again the post is too long. I apologize for that and I really, really appreciate the help. Its great to be able to have a place to get information from and I am learning a lot about car repairs. I've even looked into taking a class but nothing's available until the Fall. My goal is to resolve (6), pay for (1) and tackle the control arm, stabilizer bar, rear brakes and other stuff by myself.

Thanks in advance.

[troy1]

Personally your mechanic just wasted your money. If you have and 1811 you have a bad PCS no if and or buts.

[1sttime_owner]

Originally Posted by troy1

Personally your mechanic just wasted your money. If you have and 1811 you have a bad PCS no if and or buts.

Thank you for your input. He did think that it was PCS was going bad, but the Seafoam could help with loosen up any gunk and varnish that sometimes attributes to the hard shifting and see if that helps. But yes, the hard shifting got worse IMO and not better. I guess its time to visit a auto transmission shop or maybe...hmmmm. Do you know what the average cost for replacing the PCS would be?

In any case, do you think I should still drop the pan and change the filter since its been a while since I've done that......I think 08/2004.

Thanks again.