95 TC no fuel at rail

[mgntwo]

Hey guys i had my TC sitting for a few days and when I started back up it was real rough idle vibrating real hard and no powe when i tried to move the car in reverse. Opened the hood and a mouse has pulled my heat shield down and built a home for himself. cleaned at fired it up still same problem then car died and now wont start. I checked fuel rail and im not getting any fuel there. The fuel pump is not coming on either at all. got under there and tried to beat it with a hammer to just try and get her to come on but nothing. any opinions on where to go?? i was thinking maybe the cutoff relay in trunk or relay under hood?? any help would be appreciated.

[Kitt1993]

Hello, when I bought my 95 LTC about five ears ago, I had a intermittent no-start problem. Every so often, I would get into my car and try to start it and the engine would kick over, but it would not start. I replaced the relay and fuel pump and it seemed to fix the problem for about 6 months and it came back again. So I started to wigle the wires coming from the fuel pump relay block and turn the key at the same time. And bingo!! fired right up. My friend at the dealership said that over the years the wires move out of place along with the terminals to the fuel pump relay. He used some type of Ford tool to bend them back into place. That fixed my problem for about 4 months and it started to do it again. So again I tried to wiggle the wires and this time it didn't help. Then out of the corner of my left eye, I noticed that the Anti-Theft light was blinking when I was trying to start the car. So I figured that I needed a new keyless remote module. There in the door and get damaged over the years due to the door being opened and closed all the time. To reset that problem, I had to have the drivers door opened about 3 inches, useing the remote to lock the doors, then unlocking them. Closed the door, and turn the key, WALA!!! Started right up. This seemd to work for about 2 years, then it did the no start again, and this time was because the crank sensor pigtail was damaged and one of the wires was on by one 1 shred. Replace the pig tail on the crank sensor and I haven't had a problem since.

I seriously don't think you have this many problems, but I would check them out any ways. Its easy and won't take much of your time to figure out.

1 Check to see if your anti-theft light is on or flashing when you crank the engine. If so, do the lock and unlock prcedure I spoke of above.
2 Open the trunk and tap the enertia switch with a screwdriver until it pops, then press it down again. This will elimanate that being the problem.
3 Check the relay and see if its burned out, I would swap it with one from the a/c compressor and see if it works that way. If the a/c compressor relay starts the engine, then you know you need a relay.
4 Check and wiggle the wires on the fuel pump relay block on the drivers side under the hood while someone turns over the engine. If it starts, then you know the terminals are out of place.
5 Check your crank sensor wire just to be safe. It is under the car, next to the a/c compressor, on the left side if the crank shaft pully. Use drop light.
6 Have someone check your fuel pressure at the rail. I know you said your not getting any there, so you might want to try to spray carb cleaner into the air intake and see if you can get it to start, and get a half way reading of fuel pressure, then I am pretty certain that the pump is bad at that point.


Good luck, let me know how this works out for you.

Bryan

[mgntwo]

Well i tried the intertia switch, i swapped relays numerous times, i smacked the gas tank with a hammer to try and kick the pump on and my antitheft light is on before i try to crank the car but goes off while starting. All of which failed. I was doing a lot of looking around and seems like its a pretty common. Still stuck though