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#1
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Clutch wearout and warranty
Replaced a clutch (clutch kit) and resurfaced fly wheel in August and by May it's bad again. The shop that did the work also just inspected it and said it needs to be replaced. We did not ask to see the parts the replaced, and I am having a hard time believing the "new" clutch would already be this bad. Is it feasible? The original clutch lasted over 80k miles and this lasted only 10k! Will I be able to tell if it is the original versus if it was replaced?
My next thread will be... "Any advice for replacing a front wheel drive clutch?" I can't afford another $800. |
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#2
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Re: Clutch wearout and warranty
Did you bed it in properly by driving gently(not over 3000rpm) for the first 600miles? The get the pedal pressure adjusted. I have seen clutches fail after 3K if not bedded in right
![]() If not, then there will be no warranty. You could 'ask' for one if the shop did not tell you how to bed it in.
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N14 Pulsar VQ35 conversion with major N/A upgrades, 6 spd FWD manual HLSD 18" Rims, big brake kit, Coil overs and freshly painted Smashed Black VY SS Ute ![]() The workhorse... Twin turbo 5.7L LS1 ![]() Boyd Coddington 19" Turbine Wheels AP Racing 4 Piston Brakes Tein Coil over Suspension HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller PLX Devices DM-200 OBDII Custom Front Mount Intercooler |
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#3
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Re: Clutch wearout and warranty
Bed it in??? Does that answer your question?
![]() It's my son's car and I am sure he didn't bed it in. Although I don't think he was racing... it doesn't have much power. It wouldn't take much to rev over 3k though. It's his first Manual Trans car, but he drove it about 6 mo. prior to this so I thought he would have been "trained". The shop claimed no warranty due to being a "wear-out" item. So are tires but they come with a warranty. I guess my response to them is "no return business". |
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#4
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Re: Clutch wearout and warranty
Is the pedal supposed to feel tight after replacing the clutch? This didn't. always felt soft even after the service. I expected it to feel much harder.
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#5
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Re: Clutch wearout and warranty
All it takes is riding the clutch a little off at the traffic lights and the clutch not bedding in causes the organic pads on the clutch to burn away quickly.
It it was soft, it is likely the clutch was not disengaging properly when the pedal was all the way down which can cause premature wear.
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N14 Pulsar VQ35 conversion with major N/A upgrades, 6 spd FWD manual HLSD 18" Rims, big brake kit, Coil overs and freshly painted Smashed Black VY SS Ute ![]() The workhorse... Twin turbo 5.7L LS1 ![]() Boyd Coddington 19" Turbine Wheels AP Racing 4 Piston Brakes Tein Coil over Suspension HKS EVC 6 Boost Controller PLX Devices DM-200 OBDII Custom Front Mount Intercooler |
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#6
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Re: Clutch wearout and warranty
Update... Removed clutch and took to reputable clutch shop. As soon as the guy looked at my flywheel, he said it was machined wrong and caused the premature wear-out. Apparently the Nissan Altima required a small step on the flywheel to set the proper pressure. Without it... it's like riding your foot on the clustch constantly.
Original shop picked up the tab. So far so good... |
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