Subs

[williemayes]

What purpose does the magnet serve on subs? What is the difference between a 160 oz magnet and a 400 oz magnet. What is a good RMS for 12' subs? (like 500 watts):

[DiS]

Magnet serves the purpose of bass in the sub, meaning how hard its gonna pull the coil of the sub or how hard its gonna push it. Heavier the magnet harder the bass of the sub. Keep in mind if the magnet is heavier it doesnt mean that the sub is better. It also deppends on the quality of the subwoofer itself. I have a 12'' Q-Power Aluminum Sub 700watts max and magnet weights only 50 Oz. My sub kicks hard as hell. Most of my stuff in the car freaking rattles very much. Mirrors for example, I wont talk about inside rear view mirror, because everyone knows it rattles from any sub. My outside view mirrors raddle so much, that I have to turn down the music so I can see through them. If I would be you I wouldnt go for the subwoofers that retail stores sell. Those punch and other subs are crap. Esspecially in Best Buy and Circuit City. It also Deppends on the amplifier. For example, If you want to get a 700watt sub BY ANY MEANS do NOT get an amplifier with lower output (watts) than sub because you will brake your sub faster like that, meaning if u have 700 watt sub go either for 700watt amp or higher, MEANING!! lower watt amp will give u distortion on high end of the volume and that way you will burn out (pop) your sub. Im running a BOSS Ripper Series digital amplifier with 2 channels Bridgeble. The max power output ob that amp is 700 bridged. Thats what im putting in my sub. Hope this helps. Check my homepage for my sub and amp pictures.

[Spaz]

Eh.. I'm running a 400w peak JL 12 off a 300/2 bridged amp, and it sounds fine... you really want to look at RMS values over peak values, since RMS is what you're really listening to.

[tomlong]

I agree that you want to have a larger rms than what your sub can hold this allows you to turn the gains down on the amp to prevent blowing your cone off of the sub. This is also a way to prevent speaker destroying destortion. However there is alot more to it. You must have an independent high quality electronic crossover so that your sub is only playing the frequencies it is ment to. Also when you are purchasing an amp you should look for one with a very low THD rating(total Harmonic distortion).

[DiS]

Ofcourse the main thing you should look into is RMS when you looking for the sub. Speaking of crossover. My digital amp came with built-in crossover, I still love it, my sub has 300 RMS.

[Spaz]

JUst look for an amp that has a built in cross over or lowpass filter... or, if you want, get an entirely external crossover... it'll make the sub sound great.

[tomlong]

An external crossover does a much better job at frequency seperation than the internal ones amps have built in.

[DiS]

you get what you pay for

[tomlong]

That is correct! In my system I utilize two audio control 24XS crossovers daisy chained as well as competition passive crossovers to increase frequency seperation on my component sets. This is mated to my to audio control EQT's, audio control center channel processor with spatial restoration, kicker amps, kicker 15 solobaric with 1000 watts running to it, 2 kicker 6 1/2 inch resolution component sets, 6 disk changer, and alpine cd head. I used to work at a car stereo place for five years and have owned many very nice systems. The nice thing about selling stereos is that you are eligible for employee accomidation which means you get stuff for less than the store you work for pays. The manufacturers do this hoping you will than push their products. I think I paid $1,500 hundred for everything. THe system retails at over $5k

[Spaz]

Originally posted by tomlong
That is correct! In my system I utilize two audio control 24XS crossovers daisy chained as well as competition passive crossovers to increase frequency seperation on my component sets. This is mated to my to audio control EQT's, audio control center channel processor with spatial restoration, kicker amps, kicker 15 solobaric with 1000 watts running to it, 2 kicker 6 1/2 inch resolution component sets, 6 disk changer, and alpine cd head. I used to work at a car stereo place for five years and have owned many very nice systems. The nice thing about selling stereos is that you are eligible for employee accomidation which means you get stuff for less than the store you work for pays. The manufacturers do this hoping you will than push their products. I think I paid $1,500 hundred for everything. THe system retails at over $5k

.... damn.

that's all there is to say.

[dirtydog]

Ive managed to put together a pretty decent system without being directly involved with any suppliers. I would love to have a job as an installer but im not certified so tough luck. Im running an Alpine CDA7897 XL Head unit, mbquart components in the front, mbquart coaxials in the rear running off of a ppi amp. and i just recently purchased a JL 10W7 with the H.O. ported box, im going to run last years top of the line Kenwood Excelon mono amp. insanity. i plugged the W7 up to a JL250/1 and it still bumps like hell. I should be somewhere in the 500 watt RMS range for the sub and about 100 watts to each interior speaker.

[tomlong]

Ive managed to put together a pretty decent system without being directly involved with any suppliers. I would love to have a job as an installer but im not certified so tough luck. Im running an Alpine CDA7897 XL Head unit, mbquart components in the front, mbquart coaxials in the rear running off of a ppi amp. and i just recently purchased a JL 10W7 with the H.O. ported box, im going to run last years top of the line Kenwood Excelon mono amp. insanity. i plugged the W7 up to a JL250/1 and it still bumps like hell. I should be somewhere in the 500 watt RMS range for the sub and about 100 watts to each interior speaker

First of all alot of car stereo places will pay for training if somebody wants to learn. We paid for several techs while I worked their. Also their are week long schools that will teach you just about everything you want to know including custom installs.

100 watts to each interior speaker. I used to run Mb Quart competition component sets in custom kickpanels when I had my S-10 and I was running a PPI art series amp with 50 watts to each speaker and it was more than enough. MB Quart components do not take much power to scream. Before the PPI I was running 75 watts to each with Phoenix gold amps and it was way too much.

Any ways it sounds like you have definately chosen very nice equipment. JL Audio makes incredible subs. In my S-10 I built a custom fiberglass box ported into the cab with 1 inch thick MDF. It held 3 JL12w6's with a PPI A600 art series amp and they do thump.