91 chevy g20 braking problem

[dssdj2007]

hello i just changed the brakes on my van and now when i step on the brake it vibrates and pulls over to the right when i let go of the steering wheel, i noticed that the rotor on the driver side on the inside has indentation from the old brake pad that was completely bare. Well simply said i changed the brakes and now when i step on the brakes it pulls over to the right and shakes when i let go of the wheel anything i did wrong do i have to change out the rotor or bleed some brakes or something.

[MT-2500]

What was it doing before you changed brakes?

Shaking is in the rotor or wheel and tire area.
May be warped or not installed good or bad tire and wheel.
Pull is one side braking more than the other.

Jack it up and put on brakes and see if one side is draging.

[plainside47]

Did you bleed the air out of the brakes?

[dssdj2007]

no i didnt bleed them that was my next question how do i do it but, and no it didnt to it before so i know its not the tire.

[maxwedge]

Sounds like that rotor is your major problem, unless you opened the hydraulic system, bleeding is unnecessary.

[rhandwor]

If the pad was bare on one side and had a lot of material on the other pad I would install two rebuilt calipers in addition to the new rotor suggested.

[J-Ri]

It depends on which side was bare. If it's the outside, it means the slides are rusty or not greased. Lack of lubrication on the slides can also cause pulsation because it takes more force to move the caliper back and forth and as a result the brakes apply slightly more twice per wheel revolution giving you the pulsation. If the inside is worn more, then it means the caliper is bad or there is pressure being held in that line. That's what my textbook said and that's what most people on here say, but from what I've seen if the slides are properly greased it will cause accelerated wear on both pads.

Do check the side it's pulling toward, but also check the other side. If you got grease on the rotor or new pads it won't do as much as it should.

For the pulsation, it's a good idea to have the rotors machined any time you do pads, they tend to develop a pulsation if not machined. Don't ask why, I don't know, I have just observed that from redoing the quick-lube shop's brake jobs so many times. On heavy duty brakes, you can usually get away with not turning them. The rotors on my 3/4 ton truck have never been turned or replaced and they have 170k miles on them with no pulsation at all. I don't remember what year they switched from tapered opposing roller bearings to the hub assembly, but with a hub assembly (w/ slide on rotor), what happens a lot of the time is the rotor comes away from the hub when the lug nuts are removed and rust chunks get in there and cause it to wobble. If that's the case I bet you can just remove the rotor, clean all the rust off, apply some anti-seize to the hub and be good to go.