Question on replacing rotors on 96 cav

[mdhbhouse]

I replaced brake pads on other cars and last time I also replaced the rotors on an accord. On the accord the rotors were removed by removing a couple of bolts which made it pretty easy. On the 96 cavalier I have I haven't removed anything yet except a wheel and my questions are:
1. What size of allen wrench or whatever do I use to remove the caliper and pad assembly?
2. How doe the rotor then get removed?

I think I figured it out. The rotor will come off if I remove the brake caliper assembly.


TIA

[J-Ri]

The factory caliper bolts are 3/8" hex. I have seen some that were replaced with aftermarket/repair bolts that were metric or torx. Best to check with a mirror (or just stick your head in there) to make sure what design it is. Hex will usually feel somewhat tight in a torx fastener, but will round very easily.

Yes, the caliper must be removed before removing the rotor. After it is, the rotor should just slide right off. Depending on how long it's been on there, it may be rusted on and you may have to beat it off with a hammer.

[mdhbhouse]

Might be hard to answer but should I assume those bolts will be on pretty tight? I don't have a hex bit set if I need one so as I was just looking around I saw a post how they might be held on with loctite so expect a battle to get them loose if they haven't been removed before. I guess we'll see when I try this later. Got another car in the shop so I'll this one alone for a few days yet.

[J-Ri]

They're not usually loctited from the factory. The caliper bracket bolts usually have loctite on them, but the cavalier has no bracket, the pads are held in place entirely by the caliper and the pads are supported by the "ears" on the steering knuckle. I suppose it's possible there's loctite on them, especially if someone did the brakes previously and used loctite on the bolts. It's not that hard to break loctite loose anyway, a 15" ratchet and some elbow grease pops 'em loose, and from there an air ratchet makes quick work of them if you have one.

One thing I didn't think to tell you before, clean all the rust off the hub and apply anti-seize to it, otherwise there's a good chance you'll get a brake pulsation. If the caliper doesn't slide easily, remove the rubber bushings from around the slide pins and remove the rust with a round file. The buildup of rust pushes in on the bushing and makes the fit too tight, which causes the outer pad to drag on the rotor, causing accelerated wear and can cause heat buildup which will warp the rotor if it gets too hot.

[Classicrocjunkie]

What Jason said. ^

Its nice not having to correct people on here anymore.

[mdhbhouse]

Originally Posted by J-Ri

The cavalier has no bracket, the pads are held in place entirely by the caliper and the pads are supported by the "ears" on the steering knuckle.

Not sure I follow completely but I suppose it will make more sense once I actually get in there.

Originally Posted by J-Ri

One thing I didn't think to tell you before, clean all the rust off the hub and apply anti-seize to it, otherwise there's a good chance you'll get a brake pulsation. If the caliper doesn't slide easily, remove the rubber bushings from around the slide pins and remove the rust with a round file. The buildup of rust pushes in on the bushing and makes the fit too tight, which causes the outer pad to drag on the rotor, causing accelerated wear and can cause heat buildup which will warp the rotor if it gets too hot.

Without sounding like too much of a rookie not sure what you mean by 'The hub'? That what the rotor sits on right? Where the wheel lugs nuts get attached to?
Lastly I need to lubricate the caliper mounting bolts, clean the rotors (mild soap and water my install guide says) and apply some moly brake grease to the contact points where the metal part of the pads contacts the caliper housing. Then finally give er a few turns to make sure everything turns like it should.
I'll also slowly compress the caliper piston and when done everything, slowly depress the brake pedal a couple of times and if I do it right then I avoid having to bleed the brakes.

[Classicrocjunkie]

The hub is what the wheel and rotor sits on. On these cars, the hub and wheel bearing are all one sealed unit.

The caliper has what you call a caliper slide/bolt. The first inch of the bolt has threads on it to attach to the steering knuckle, and the remaining is a smooth sleeve which the caliper floats on.

Here's what your facing...







These are the ears Jason is referring to.



Before you remove the caliper, take a flat head screw driver through the top hole of the caliper where you see the rotor vents and out through the front pad facing you. You are only using that for leverage to compress the piston back into the caliper.

Don't use water.... thats the dumbest thing i've ever heard. Buy a can of brake cleaner from the parts store. Its a couple bucks for a can. Use it plentifully. Grease on pads or rotors is evil

Lube the sliders, and anti-seize on the threads. You only need a little anti-seize so don't go nuts with it. You can use the slider lube plentifully.

[J-Ri]

Believe it or not, soap and water is actually what I was told in school. Problem is, I was never able to go from water to blow gun fast enough to keep surface rust from forming. Not much, but they'd turn orange-ish. I completely agree about using brake cleaner.

[mdhbhouse]

Thanks guys. The 'soap and water' was right from the brake pad installation guide.
I'll compress the piston (saw a tip on that before), get some cleaner and anti-seize and take it from here.
Great feedback and much appreciated.