cam sensor

[joedirt76]

Hi all, my cam sensor on my 95 neon is done in, anyone know if its difficult to change, and pricing?? thanks

[Scatch!]

Very simple change, for SOHCs at least. I'm not sure how it is for DOHCs. Just make sure you install it pointing in the same direction.

As far as pricing, I don't know. Sorry.

[Sluttypatton]

No, it isn't very difficult to replace. Just in case you aren't sure, it is found here.

The replacement procedure is straight from the Haynes manual. They say it better than I can.

Replacement
Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

Remove the filtered air tube from the throttle body and air filter housing.

On SOHC engines, remove the air inlet tube. Disconnect the electrical connector from the engine coolant sensor and camshaft position sensor.

Remove the brake booster hose and electrical connectors from the holders on the end of the valve cover,

Remove the bolt from the camshaft sensor and lift the sensor from the rear of the cylinder head.

If necessary, remove the target magnet mounting screw and remove the magnet.

Installation is the reverse of removal. If removed, align the locating pins on the backside of the target magnet with the locating holes in the rear of the camshaft and tighten the screw securely.

[KatWoman]

Camshaft position sensor is around $35 or so from the dealer...alot less if you go to an autoparts store. In my personal opinion, I like to stick with genuine Mopar parts for electronic stuff.

[Scatch!]

Originally posted by KatWoman
...I like to stick with genuine Mopar parts for electronic stuff.

Amen to that. I made the mistake of buying autostore parts (sensors) once or twice. Never again.

Though, I'd buy a starter, alternator, fuel pump, things of that nature, from one of those places since they usually come with excellent warranties.

[joedirt76]

Ok, I got its location down pat, but heres another issue....see my buddy and I changed my headgasket and timing belt. and it was directly after this that thy're is no signal to the cam sensor. So is it possible that something on the cam itself is broken?

[Scatch!]

Nothing going INTO the sensor? I'd check your PCM to see if it's plugged in properly/completely. Also, look for corroded plugs, bad grounds, dead/low battery...

[joedirt76]

got around to changing the sensor..the extended crank is fixed...but it still boggs out sometimes...I dont know what else it could be...
Its better since changing the cam sensor, but still not good enough...
any ideas.
Thanks

[KatWoman]

Perhaps a new crankshaft position sensor may be in order as well. It's alot more expensive than the cam sensor. I had both go out on me in january. Check your codes and see if you are getting any.

[joedirt76]

I thought if the crank sensor is gone, the car wouldnt start at all? I could be wrong, but Im going to check the codes in a few mins
Thanks Kat

[joedirt76]

Hi, just checked the codes: Im getting a code 12, and a code 21. I dont think the code 12 is a big deal, but what exactly does 21 mean? Problem with oxygen sensor signal circuit. Sensor Voltage to computer not fluctuating. What now?? What do you think? Let me know, Thanks

[pcv]

Your oxygen sensor is probably contaminated, due to burning cooolant and oil that it is not flacutating anymore. A new one is
in order here. Good Luck.

[joedirt76]

Is there any way to tell which o2 sensor I should replace. Im thinking upstream...but maybe I should go for both?? What do you guys think? Is it possible that this problem would cause my car to bog down when trying to accelerate? Thanks

[joedirt76]

another bit of info- my car only boggs out and runs like crap when its hot outside, when its raining or cool, it runs great, dont know if thats usefull info, but I thought I'd let you all know anyways

[KatWoman]

Originally posted by joedirt76
I thought if the crank sensor is gone, the car wouldnt start at all? I could be wrong, but Im going to check the codes in a few mins
Thanks Kat

When mine went the starter spun but it never turned over. As for your O2 sensors, I don;t know of a way to test them on your own, nor do I have any info on what kind of reading they should put out. When I got a 51 (fuel system lean) my service writer told me it could be an O2 sensor and that I wouldnt necessarily get the code. I went ahead and bit the bullet and replaced both, and my code went away. A bad O2 sensor will cause your car to bog down, and my car's performance did suck when that was going on. If it has been 35K+ miles since one or both were last replaced I would go for both. Expensive yes, but worth it in the end if you look at how much gas you eat up. Code 12 means nothing, its more of an FYI code to let you know the battery or power to the PCM has been cut at some point in the last 50 key cycles.