Bed Removal For Fuel Pump Repair

[jhenry240]

I am having trouble with a 1997 blazer not holding fuel pressure when the key is in the on position, which is causing a slow hard start. After reading many many posts, I think I have diagnosed the problem to be the fuel pump/sending unit. I have read that it is much easier to remove the bed rather than drop the tank to replace the fuel pump, but I cannot find any information regarding how to remove the bed. Could someone please either refer me some documentation that explains this procedure, or outline what to do in a follow up post? Thanks for the help.

[chris15706]

Disconnect your tail lights and license plate lights. Take out the screws that hold the fuel filler. Take out the 8 bolts that hold the bed on the frame. Get at least 2 people on each side and just lift it off. You might want to have a 5th person there to move the fuel filler neck out of the way as the rest of you are lifting the bed off or when you put it back on. It tends to get in the way.... I have done this 4 times...

[chris15706]

Wait a second. A blazer doesnt have a bed! Well at least thats how you do it on an S-10.

[blazee]

[jhenry240]

It didn't make much sense to me when I read it, but I found an article on the internet that indicated it was possible and much easier than dropping the tank. Just thought I would see if that was the case.

[BlazerLT]

Why are you thinking it is the pump that is causing the pressure bleed off.

You do know it will drop a bit after the pump has primed.

Also, it is a 1997, ignition switch should be on your short list.

If it is dropping a lot, I would check your fuel pressure regulator.

[Xiuxie2009]

I also have a regular blazer 97 but it is not an s10, it's a regular 4.3 suv. but I was wondering if i could do something instead of dropping the tank to change the fuel pump?

[ZL1power69]

On a blazer there really isn't another option to dropping the tank that I'm aware of.

[mike2004tct]

Originally Posted by ZL1power69

On a blazer there really isn't another option to dropping the tank that I'm aware of.

Other than this thread being 4 years old, here's a conversation I had with a guy at the local napa store about replacing the pump.

I was picking up the 4th fuel pump for my Blazer, when the guy at the counter next to me says, "I just replaced the pump in my wife's Yukon. Took me 1 hour to do it". So I give the guy the sideways astonished looked with one raised eyebrow. After replacing my pump 3 times in the past 2 years, I've got this down to a science. Took me a little over 2.5 hours from start to finish last time I did it.
He say's to me, "Yep, I cut a hole in the floor. had it out in 45 minutes"

And there folks, is what I will do next time my pump craps out.

[b1lk1]

Stop buying the crappy aftermarket jump pumps and get a pump from the dealer and you won't need to replace it every year.

[mike2004tct]

Originally Posted by b1lk1

Stop buying the crappy aftermarket jump pumps and get a pump from the dealer and you won't need to replace it every year.

3 A.C. Delco(Delphi) pumps so far, 1 Carter.

Hardly crappy aftermarket stuff.

[b1lk1]

If you got 3 bad AC Delco's in 2 years then you either have the worst luck on the planet or there is something else wrong with your truck.

[mike2004tct]

Originally Posted by b1lk1

If you got 3 bad AC Delco's in 2 years then you either have the worst luck on the planet or there is something else wrong with your truck.

Only 2. The 3rd one is in and working right now.

First (original pump) lasted 8 years. (Typical '97 gauge manfunction)
Carter pump stopped working after 14 months. (Napa dude originally gave me the wrong pump- S10 P/U unit instead of 2 door Blazer), had to replace it after a week - gauge didn't work correctly)
Second Delphi pump lastest 15 months. Hole in the tube from the pump to the top of the housing wouldn't allow enough pressure buildup for cold starts.


So yes, I've had crappy luck, and of course the '97s are known for numerous electrical glitches (and I've had them all)