Power Window switch assembly removal

[mwboz]

A quick question: I have two malfunctioning power windows, front and rear drivers side. 1990 Accord Sedan. The rear has always been a problem. I just leave it up. The driver's window stopped operating a week ago. It's mostly down and can't be coaxed up. I checked all the pwr window fuses - they checked good. I'd like to check the switches before removing the door panel. The Haynes manual says simply: "Pry out the switch assembly". How do I do that? I pulled it up little and tried using wedges. No go. What's the trick to "prying" it out and avoid breaking this thing? Your help is appreciated.

[mpumas]

You got to remove the door panel for the drivers side front master window switch. After you get the panel off and all the connectors off you will see the screws to remove the arm rest assembly. After you get that off, you will see more screws to remove the switch assembly which also includes the mirror switch. (When two windows do not work, the problem is usually the front master switch.) The whole switch can be disassembled after lifting the rubber cover which is on top of the switch assembly but under the switch levers. Look at the contacts, sometimes they get a varnish layer on them which prevents the contacts from making a connection. As for the rear window, a can't remember how the switch is held in but prying out maybe an option. If not, remove the panel and look. I had to replace my master switch and got one from a junk yard. Color of the bezel is not important because you can remove the switch assembly and install it on your old bezel. On any of the doors, the windows can be raised or lowered by applying voltage to the motor leads which are anchored to a terminal strip on the door. Good luck.

[mwboz]

Great answer MPUMAS! It will take a couple of days to get to it. I'll let you know how it comes out. Thanks.

[mwboz]

Hey MPUMAS! The door came off easily, just as you described. The switch came out easily too. After that, the thing was like a Rubiks cube. I guess the switch pads are supposed to snap in place or remove easily, but I stopped prying at them when it seemed like they'd break, so wasn't able to look at the contacts. The rubber boot was intact, no obvious corrosion, so I went to Plan B. Replaced the motor/regulator with a used unit. That was the real problem. Not the switch. So, thanks again for the help.

[mpumas]

Glad you solved your problem but on which door. You had two problems, right? The rocker knob is held in by a pin on the side which is located under the rubber boot.

[mwboz]

Fixed the driver's window (front). Haven't got into the left rear. The real problem there isn't the switch. It simply stalls sometimes -difficult operation. Someone has to get out and coax it up while you operate one of the switchs. We haven't used in 13 years. Probably a good lube with silicone spray would fix that. As for the switch assembly, I did see the pins but elected to pass on dismantling it at that time. Took apart the old window motor and found a huge amount of carbon. There's a good chance it was simply shorted out. No obvious burning or overly worn contact areas. I'll clean it up, put it back together, test it and keep if it still functions.

[mpumas]

The carbon is probably dust caused by the brushes being worn down. You might be able to find replacements. Also look at the comunitator on the armature. If it is burned, you need to get it turned. Re-lubeing and new brushes may give you a almost good as new motor.

[mwboz]

Just like rebuilding a starter, huh?

[jgr7]

I fixed a window motor on my Eldorado the same way, took it apart and sanded the commutator and resurfaced the carbon brushes, worked like new.
Jeff

[mpumas]

The best way to resurface the commutator is with a lathe. It is vey important that it stays perfectly circular so the brushes don't jump around when it is turning. And emery cloth is better then sandpaper because sandpaper can be imbeded in the copper because it is such a soft metal. The other thing to look out for is open windings. That can cause dead spots where it won't start in one position but with a slight rotation of the armature will cause it to start.

[somick]

Originally Posted by mpumas

The best way to resurface the commutator is with a lathe. It is vey important that it stays perfectly circular so the brushes don't jump around when it is turning. And emery cloth is better then sandpaper because sandpaper can be imbeded in the copper because it is such a soft metal. The other thing to look out for is open windings. That can cause dead spots where it won't start in one position but with a slight rotation of the armature will cause it to start.

Slots on commutator contacts need to be addressed as well. This is a tedious job, but this is your device and if you are not in a hurry it will reward you. We used to make our own tool out of an old saw blade, to scrape build up between the contacts. Contact edges need to be smoothed as well because they will ruin the brushes.

Sam