My new 5.0L Has,air,fuel,compression,but no spark!

[SwiftThunder]

I just bought a 93 5.0HO and I really love this engine but for some reason it won't start, I bought a new battery today and installed a new fuel filter, and tested the pressure which is correct, the person who I bought the car from put in a whole new distributor and gearshaft and supposedly the computer behind the right headlight, the wires, cap, rotor, are all new as so the coil is. I have trouble shot thus far all the resistant measurements on the coil are correct, the coil has power on the right lead ( looking from the passenger fender) but the coil will NOT spark, I am thinking that it is not getting the signal from the crankshaft position sensor, thats my guess but from here I do not know what to do next. Also I tested the coil fuse under the hood and when I removed it and reinstalled it I heard about two relays engauge and the rails squirted some fuel.

[SwiftThunder]

well since no one has time to input ANY help<<<>>> I have purchased a new Ignition control module, and coil. I have trouble shot so much and Ford told me to look for the two EEC relays one in the power box and other somewhere but the only other relay in on the header panel next to the ICM, I have no clue what it control but I do know it activates after the EEC relay is energized.... ANY INPUT IS HELPFUL PLEASE!!!! I WANT MY BIRD TO FLY AGAIN.

[discnik]

On the "Batt" (+) side of the coil you had 12 volts ?

You have installed the TFI & coil and still no spark ?

[SwiftThunder]

I don't receive my new parts until tomorrow, I know TFI means thick something what is tfi or tif? I do have power to the positive on the coil but with the old ICM behind the headlight there was no spark at the coil what so ever.

[discnik]

Check your Private Messages.

[SwiftThunder]

no one really seems like they wanny input, but here is an update, I purchased a new ignition control module and installed it, i attempted to start my car and nothing happened i tried a few more times and boom it started out of no where. I have come to the conclusion that either the stock one just failed or something made it fail, well as of this morning i started it and let it idle for 15 min its about 32 degrees where i am at so i wanted it to warm up, well i came out ar 15 min and it was off, and wouldnt start again, and not the tach is not moving when turning it over like the computer may have failed again. ANY SUGGESTIONS?? something i am cuious about is red wire with the green stripe on the pos of the coil shows open continuity with a ground which means it must be grounding somewhere, but when it happen to start it ran beautifully!!! HELP ME PLEASE

[97Bird]

SwiftThunder, I just got back from a business trip so sorry for the delayed response. It sounds like the person you bought the car from had this problem and couldn't fix it so sold you his headaches! I suggest you go to Ebay and purchase an factory EVTM manual. See here: http://search.ebay.com/search/search...ual&category0=
You first should check all of the ignition system wiring and connectors for frayed sections that can short out and clean, tight connections. Using a 12V test light connected to the (-) side of the coil, see if it flickers when you try to start the car.

"red wire with the green stripe on the pos of the coil shows open continuity with a ground which means it must be grounding somewhere". I'm tired and can't understand this statement. Are you using an ohmmeter connected to ground and the (+) side of the coil? An open means there is NO connection between the two points of contact, therefore the (+) side isn't shorted to ground or "grounding". Let us know if the testlight flickers.

[SwiftThunder]

I bought the ""headache" because I enjoy a challenge, but I am looking outward for opinions, my buddy is a ford mechanic and he and I worked on my car today and didn't get really far, so here is my problem even though I replaced the ICM and coil and for a short while it started the only other link is this system called the Hall Effect sensor, where can I find that on a 93 5.0L and once found how can I test it, if you read all my posting and have any questions ask and I will tell you how I trouble shot it and what happened afterwards. BTW 97Bird, thank you for responding I feel like nobody wants to help even though I type with as much detail as I can.

[97Bird]

The Hall Effect Sensor is located in the distributor and replaces the points of an older system. As I said, buy the EVTM manual and you won't regret the $12.50 it will cost you! It will save you a lot of time in the future and is money well spent. I don't have a wiring diagram for your year so I can't tell you which wires to check in the connectors- another reason to buy the EVTM manual! The Hall Effect Sensor should have three wires going to it. They are the supply, signal and ground wires. Be sure the ground wire has a good clean and tight connection to ground. As I said, check all of the wires and connectors. A test light should flicker when connected to the signal wire of the sensor just like at the coil that I asked you to do and report.

There are some very smart people in this forum but they don't check in every day so sometimes there is a lag time before anyone answers. It's better to wait for a good answer then get one from someone that doesn't really have a clue about the problem!

Did you check your private messages? It looks like discnik has also been kind enough to try and help you.

You can also ask for the Mitchell Electrical Manual at your library. This has all of the wiring diagrams and they usually will let you photocopy the pages you need. You'll have to ask for the 1993 edition. I would still buy the EVTM manual. I have one for each of my cars and truck along with the factory shop manuals.

[SwiftThunder]

I don't have a check light, I have a fluke 111 multimeter, I have checked alot of wire grounds etc, but heres sorta an update, I have purchased my evtm manual for my 93, I have all my shop manuels for my 97 but those are of no help. Today I had the bright idea to clean out the contacts that go to the coil, i brushed them out with a wire brush and viola, when I turned it over I could hear the pack arking and the car started, all day today it has started when I wanted it to, so since it was workin I figured that i would reconnect the old ICM and the car started right up.... so I was very happy that it was finally working, I was getting ready to take it into town to the auto parts store and it didn't start....thats when i start getting really frustrated I tore apart the contacts at the coil and cleaned them again and nothing happened, it wouldn't start....so here I am again telling U about the MYSTERY ignition problem.

[97Bird]

As I said several times before, check and clean ALL connections at the connectors and ground points. A digital Fluke probably can't react quick enough to any pulses at the coil so you must use a 12V test light and watch for the flicker. They only cost $5-10. Your EVTM will tell you if the ECM is grounded through it's case and if so it needs to have a clean and tight mounting.