Water for fuel... the longest single post I've ever made.

[Christ]

Fuel from 'Burning Water'
provided by The Freedom Reclamation Project
*** Preliminary Plans ***
KeelyNet 01/09/02 - Updated 01/18/08

KeelyNet Disclaimer: We have no indication these plans work or will work as claimed when built, so if you choose to try it, use common sense and start SMALL, like a lawnmower engine, please report any successes you might have. They are posted 'as is'.

Note: AS OF 01/18/08, NO ONE WE ARE AWARE OF HAS BEEN ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE VOLUMES OF GAS CLAIMED IN THESE PLANS...IT IS MOST PROBABLY A HOAX...PLEASE THINK CAREFULLY BEFORE WASTING YOUR TIME AND ENERGY ON THIS. If you are looking for ways to increase your gas mileage, check out '14 Ways to Save $$$ on Gas'. Not Biofuel, Solar, Fuel Cells, etc.. and NOT acceleration, braking, or weight type tips! If you want do-it-yourself practical information you can use NOW, this is the eBook for you. Just use one of these tips ONE TIME and it will pay for the cost of this eBook. ...Many Free Bonus Pages of INCREDIBLE GAS SAVING INFORMATION... - 151 pages - $15.00, you can download it NOW and begin saving money.

The following file was recieved by Dave the Gravman via FAX, he kindly sent it to be shared out to everyone, thanks Dave!

• Convert your engine to burn hydrogen & oxygen
• Make vapor from water on demand & pollution-free
• Convert your vehicle to a ZPV: Zero Pollution Vehicle
• Freedom from Gasoline
• Simple and inexpensive conversion
• On Demand vapor rate via throttle
• Easy do it yourself public domain plans
• Help clean the air while you save money

These plans can be used to run your car, truck, RV, motorcycle, airplane, etc. from tap water. Are you fed up with ga$oline price$ and THE POLLUTION?
Would you like to do something about it besides complain and wait?
Are you still CHOKING on the whole idea of fossil fuel CON$UMPTION? WHY?
Wouldn't you like to free yourself from centrally-controlled or imported fuel?
Do you have a 2nd vehicle you don't use every day?
Now there is something we can actually do about it, as individuals willing to help clean the environment, and travel at lower cost to both you and your environment. Do-it-yourself plans allow the individual (that's you and me, folks) to make a difference.
This is the easiest and lowest cost way to convert your car to run on (relatively) free energy. Now with existing technology, anyone can stand up and make a difference by reducing the local automotive pollution, eliminate ga$oline expen$e$, help restore our atmosphere, and breathe a little easier. You will be making use of your entire existing system, except the fuel tank and catalytic converter.
THE PLAN:

Know the Truth and set yourself FREE. Set a good example for the World you choose to create. Exercise your own Free Will. Live cleaner and healthier.
Build and install a low-cost alternative method for running your vehicle (internal combustion) engine on TAP WATER, using off-the-shelf components. This is simply an efficient way to convert ordinary tap water into gaseous Hydrogen and Oxygen, and then burn these vapours in the engine, instead of that $melly, $tinky, expen$ive 'other $tuff.
This 'minisystem' runs easily from your existing battery and electrical system, and it plugs into your carburetor with simple off-the-shelf fittings. You will be installing a plastic water tank, a control circuit, a reaction chamber, a hi-pressure carb/FI fitting, and 3 gauges (see Figure 1), and then hooking into your existing carb/FI.
The SIMPLICITY comes from being an 'on-demand' system requiring no fancy storage, or plumbing. You crank the gas pedal or throttle and you electrically create more vapour for immediate consumption, on demand; Lo - Hi Flow Rate as needed from idle - max power. The only real change is that you are using tap water as fuel, instead of the traditional petroleum-based fuel. Given, a choice, which way would you choose?

FAQs

Q: Does it really work? A: Yes; this is well-established technology dating back to stainless steel. But be sure to follow these instructions using the proper mechanical and electrical assembly techniques, as it incorporates the best qualities of several techniques.
Q: How does it qualify as 'free energy'?
A: If you're paying someone for the water you use, then it is not strictly 'free'. But, the alternative is to keep buying into the expen$ive ga$oline and re$ultant hydrocarbon pollution.
Q: ls it Safe?
A: Technically, it is safer than running on fossil fuel, because you are no longer choking on your own emissions (health-wise), but in general it is practically as safe as your current gasoline arrangement. You will be installing a few simple safety devices, using current automotive standards.
Q: What kind of performance can I expect?
A: Properly adjusted, your modified vapour-only fuel system will run cooler, and at a modestly higher power level. The mileage performance expected from this design ranges from 50-300 mpg, depending on your adjusting skills.
Q: Can I do the modification myself?
A: Why not? If you know someone with basic mechanical and/or electrical skills, you can even delegate some of the construction. If you are using a fuel-injected engine, you may have to get a mechanic's opinion.
0: What is the environmental impact that my vehicle will have?
A: It will be producing H20 steam and unburnt 02, hence it will be cleaning the environment, rather than dumping nauseous toxins into it. Plus you will be helping to save our dwindling supply of atmospheric oxygen. Any excess vapour in the reaction becomes either steam or oxygen. You can also expect to be receiving more than casual interest from those around you.
Q: Is this really a steam engine?
A: No; really. Exceedingly hi temp & pressure are not used. This is strictly an internal combustion engine (burning orthohydrogen) with residual steam in the exhaust as a by product.

Gasoline as a fuel is NOT NECESSARY; it is optional.
1. ORIGIN - In the 19th century, the gasoline portion of the refining process, was first considered to be a 'waste' product of extracting the purified crude oil. Later on, it was discovered that it could be $old as fuel, instead of just dumping it back in the hole as had been the tradition. 2. CONSUMPTION RATE - The gasoline consumption rate for every mass-produced car has been carefully 'designed in' as a market asset. As an indication, simply observe how quickly and closely ALL the local different gas stations adjust their prices. Even the hybrid cars which use electric motors still consume a designed amount of gasoline, and their price tags are prohibitively high. 3. EFFICIENCY - There is a lot of thermochemical energy in gasoline, but there is even more energy in water. The DOE has quoted about 40%, 50 it is probably much more than that. Most people are unaware that 'internal combustion' is DEFINED as: a thermo-vapour process; as in 'no liquid in the reaction'; AND most of the gasoline in a standard internal combustion engine, is ACTUALLY CONSUMED cooked and finally broken down) IN THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER, which happens AFTER the fuel has been not-so-burnt in the engine. Sadly, this means that most of the fuel we use in this way, is used only to cool down the combustion process, rather than using a cleaner and more efficient means to do so. 4. ADDITIVES - Also sadly, we are told by 'authorities' that some of the many gasoline additives are in the mix to increase performance; but because of its current overly-complex molecular structure, the real built-in function of the gasoline formula is to slow down the combustion so that only so much is actually consumed in the cylinder, and the liquid balance goes to the catalytic converter. As a further insult, the additives are also there to clog and prevent the use of the Pogue-style carburetors, designed to get 200-300 mpg. 5. PROFIT - Is the Pope catholic? does the bear poop in the woods? Of course the oil companies are making a huge profit. It is by design. What do you suppose the Gulf War was about? Just look at where the crude oil comes from and where the money is flowing. Rest assured that the oil companies do NOT want you to know how to make use of this water-fuel technology. They have been making money on our ignorance, dis-empowerment, and willingness to follow along in a mindless 'comfort-zone' of toxic waste, suppression, resentment, and apathy: WHO NEEDS IT? Let us proceed to set a good example and do it right, do it clean. Exceedingly simple

Water is pumped as needed to replenish and maintain the liquid level in the chamber. The electrodes are vibrated with a 0.5-SA electrical pulse which breaks 2(H20) --- ( 2H2 + 02 ). When the pressure reaches say 30-60 psi, you turn the key and go. You step on the pedal, you send more energy to the electrodes, and thus more vapour to the cylinders; i.e. fuel vapour on demand. You set the idle - max flow rate to get the most efficient use of power, and you're off to the races. In the BIG picture, your Free Energy is coming from the tap water, in an open system, as the latent energy in the water is enough to power the engine, and hence drive the alternator and whatever belt-driven accessories; AND the alternator is efficient enough to run the various electrical loads (10-20 amps), including the additional low current to run this vapour reaction. No extra batteries are required.

OVERVIEW - Here is the suggested sequence of steps:

1. Install the CHT (or EGT) gauge and measure your current operating temp range (gasoline), for comparison. 2. Build & test the controller to verify the correct pulse output. 3. Build the reaction chamber & test it w. the controller (i.e pressure out). 4. Install the tank, controller, chamber, and pressure fittings. 5. Run engine & Adjust the control circuit as necessary for best performance. 6. Install the stainless steel valves and get the pistons/cylinders coated with ceramic. 7. Coat the exhaust system with ceramic without the catalytic converter OR let it rust out and replace the whole dang thang with stainless steel pipe sections.

YOU WILL NEED:

• - plastic water tank with pump and level sensor.
• - control circuit, wiring, connectors, and epoxy.
• - reaction chamber with electrodes and fittings.
• - 3/8" stainless steel flex-tubing, fittings and clamps.- carb/FI vapor-pressure fitting kit. - pressure, CHT (or EGT), & level gauges.
• - stainless steel valves.
• - copper mesh junction.
• - ceramic surface treatment for cylinders & pistons.
• - stainless steel or ceramic treated exhaust assembly.

BASIC TOOLS

• - drill, screwdriver and pliers
• - hole cutter
• - wire-wrap, solder-iron and clippers
• - DVM and oscilloscope.

REACTION CHAMBER

Construct as shown in Figure 2. Use a section of 4" PVC waste pipe with a threaded screw-cap fitting on one end and a standard end-cap at the other. Make sure to drill-and-epoxy or tap threads through the PVC components for all fittings. Set and control the water level in the chamber so that it well submerses the pipe electrodes; yet leave some headroom to build up the hydrogen/oxygen vapour pressure. Use stainless steel wires inside the chamber or otherwise use a protective coating; use insulated wires outside. Ensure that the epoxy perfects the seal, or otherwise lay down a bead of water-proof silicone that can hold pressure. The screw fitting may require soft silicone sealant, or a gasket; its purpose is to hold pressure and allow periodic inspection of the electrodes. No leaks, no problems. Make sure you get a symmetric 1-5mm gap between the 2 stainless steel pipes. The referenced literature suggests that the closer to 1mm you get, the better. You WILL want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on. Make your solder connections at the wire/electrode junctions nice, smooth, and solid; then apply a water-proof coating, e.g. the epoxy you use for joining the pipes to the screw cap. This epoxy must be water-proof and be capable of holding metal to plastic under pressure.
You WILL want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on.

CONTROL CIRCUIT

Figure 3

Figures 3 & 4 show a simple circuit to control and drive this mini-system. You are going to make a 'square-pulse' signal that 'plays' the electrodes like a tuning fork; which you can watch on an oscilloscope. The premise given by the literature is: The faster you want do go down the road, the 'fatter' you make the pulses going into the reaction chamber. Duty cycle will vary with the throttle in the vicinity of 90%Mark 10%Space (Off/On).

NOTE : Figures 4 and 5 have been revised, click to see the large version

There is nothing sacred about how the pulse waveform is generated; there are many ways to generate pulses, and the attached diagrams show a few. Figure 4 gives the NE555-circuit approach from the referenced patent. The output switching transistor must be rated for 1-5 amps @ I2VDC (in saturation). Go with a plan that works for you or your friendly neighborhood technoid or mechanic, and go get all the circuit elements from your local electronics store, such as Radio-Shack or Circuits-R-Us, including the circuit board, IC sockets, and enclosure/box. DigiKey has better selection, service, and knowledge; plus they have no minimum order crap. Be sure to use a circuit board with a built-in ground plane, and to accommodate room for mounting 2 or 3 of the gauges. Mounting the reaction chamber in the engine compartment will require running a stub to your pressure gauge where you can watch it. You can easily make 30-gauge wire-wrap connections between the socket pins and through-hole discrete components having wire leads. Also make sure to get spec sheets on any IC you use. More details of the best circuits to use will be announced pending prototype testing. You WILL want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on.

THROTTLE CONTROL

If you have a throttle position sensor, you should be able to access the signal from the sensor itself OR from the computer connector. This signal is input to the circuit as the primary control (i.e. throttle level pulse width = vapour rate).

If you don't have such a signal available, you will have to rig a rotary POT (variable resistor) to the gas linkage (i.e. coupled to something at the gas pedal or throttle cable running to the carb or Fl. If you make the attachment at the cart/Fl, be sure to use a POT that can handle the engine temp cycles. Don't use a cheezy-cheapy POT; get one rated for long life and mechanical wear; mount it securely to something sturdy and stationary that will not fall apart when you step on the gas.

CONTROL RANGE

The full throttle RANGE (idle-max) MUST control the vapour rate, i.e. pulse-width (duty). The resistor values at the throttle signal must allow the throttle signal voltage, say 1-4 Volt swing, to drive the VAPOR RATE. You will be using this voltage swing to generate a 10% ON 'square' pulse. The patent implies using a 'resonant' pulse in the 10-250 KHz frequency range; but it is not explicitly stated so. In this circuit, you will simply tune to whatever frequency makes the most efficient vapour conversion. You will have to get into the specs for each IC you use, to insure you connect the right pins to the right wires, to control the frequency and pulse width. You can use spare sockets to try out different discrete component values. Just keep the ones that are spec-compatible in the circuit, and get the job done. You crank up the throttle signal and put more electrical energy (fatter pulses) into the electrodes; verify you can get 10% duty on the scope (2 - 100 usec on the horizontal time-base). Your averaging DVM will display the 90%-I 0% DC voltage across the output transistor (Vce or Vds or Output to Ground). Set and connect DVM in the supply current and measure .5 - 5 amps, without blowing the DVM fuse. Now verify that you got everything you wanted. Verify your wiring connections using your DVM as a continuity detector. Check your wiring 1 at a time and yellow line your final schematic as you go. You can best use board-mount miniature POTs for anything you want to set-and-forget. The LEDs are there to give you a quick visual check of normal vs abnormal operation of your new creation. You WILL want to get your chamber level sensor verified BEFORE you epoxy the cap on (see Figures 2 & 4). Figure 2 also shows that fittings are required to the carb/FI I. There are ready-made kits (such as by Impco) available for making your pressure fittings to the carburetor or fuel-injector as the case may be. You will necessarily be sealing the built in vents and making a 1-way air-intake. The copper mesh comprises the inadvertent backfire' protection for the reaction chamber. Make sure that all vapor/duct junctions are air-tight and holding full pressure without leakage. Your new 'system' is considered successful and properly adjusted when you get the full power range at lower temp and minimum vapor flow without blowing the pressure safety valve.

CHT (or EGT)

Monitor your engine temp with the CHT (cylinder head temp) or EGT (exhaust gas temp) instead of your original engine temp indicator (if any). Your existing gauge is TOO SLOW for this application and will not warn you against overheating until after you have burnt something. Make sure that your engine RUNS NO HOTTER than in the gasoline arrangement. VDO makes a CHT gauge with a platinum sensor that fits under your spark plug against the cylinder head (make sure it is REAL CLEAN before you reinstall your spark plug (as this is also an electrical ground).

ENGINE/EXHAUST TREATMENT

Get the valves replaced with stainless steel ones AND get the pistons/cylinders ceramic-treated ASAP when you have successfully converted and run your new creation. Do not delay as these items WILL RUST, either by sheer use or by neglect (i.e. letting it sit). You could make max use of your current exhaust system by using it with your new deal until it rusts through, then have your mechanic or welder friend to fit a stainless steel exhaust pipe (no catalytic converter is required). But it could be ea$ier to send your existing exhaust system out for the ceramic treatment, and then simply re-attach it to the exhaust ports.

GENERAL

1. Do not discard or remove any of the old gasoline set up components, e.g. tank, carb/FI, catalytic converter, unless necessary. Better to always leave an easy way to revert back to something that at least runs, just in case. Some people are leaving their gasoline set up completely intact, and switching back and forth at will, just to have a backup plan. 2. Set your throttle circuit so that you get minimum vapour flow at IDLE, and maximum vapour flow at FULL POWER without blowing the pressure relief valve. In this way, you control how 'lean' your mixture is by the strength of the pulse (i.e. 'fatness' at the optimum pulse frequency). If you just don't get enough power (at any throttle setting), it means that you need to

• (1) change the pulse frequency,
• (2) change the gap between the electrodes,
• (3) change the size (bigger) electrodes, OR
• (4) make a higher output pulse voltage (last resort).

Always use an output transistor, such as a MOSFET, that is rated for the voltage and current you need to get the job done. OK so you might have to play around with it some. Isn't that where all the Fun is anyhow? If you get ANY engine knock our loud combustions (not compensated by adjusting the timing), it means that you need to install an additional coil in the chamber, and drive the coil with an additional pulse signal (about 19 Hz on the .lsec time base) (see Figure 5). Here,you will be slowing down the burn rate just enough so that the vapours burn throughout the power stroke of the piston. Be sure to include a board-mount POT to set the correct strength of this 2nd pulse signal into the coil. This is a stainless steel coil of about 1500 turns (thin wire) that you can arrange like a donut around the center pipe (but NOT touching either electrode), directly over the circular 1-5mm gap. You want NO KNOCKING at any power/throttle setting; smooth power only, but also no excess hydrogen leftover from the combustion.

5. Build the canister(s) as tall as you can without compromising your ability to mount them conveniently near the dash panel, or in the engine compartment, as the case may be. This way, you can always make the electrodes bigger, if necessary without undue hardship. Remember that anything in the engine compartment should be mounted in a bullet-proof, vibration and temperature tolerant fashion. 6. If you have to drill a through-hole for wiring or plumbing through metal, make sure to also install a grommet for protection against chafing. Always watch your chamber pressure range from IDLE (15-25 psi) - FULL POWER (30-60 psi) - Set your safety-pressure relief-valve to 75 psi and make sure it's rated for much higher. 7. Shut OFF the power switch and pull over if there is any MALFUNCTION of the system. Your engine will last longest when it still develops FULL POWER+ at some minimum temperature that we are sure you can find, by leaning back the Royal Vapour Flow and/or by making use of the water-vapour cooling technique (see Figure 7). Keep good mpg performance records, and periodic maintenance/inspection. Keep it clean; save some money; clean the air; heal the planet; happy motoring; tell a friend; enjoy your freedom and self-empowerment; haul ass. 8. There lacks documented material for perfecting this vapour system through a fuel injector; there may be some details you will discover on your own as working prototypes progress. For example, you may be restricted to inject the hydrogen/oxygen vapour WITHOUT ANY water vapour, as it may rust the injectors. If engine temp and CHT is a problem, then you will want to re-think your plan, e.g. ceramic-coating the injectors. There is always 'replacing the Fl system with a Carb'. 9. If you install the water-vapour system (for lower operating temp/stress), you will want to lean the mixture (vapour/air) for minimum vapour flow rate to achieve any given throttle position (idle - max). Make sure that you get a minimum flow for IDLE an a modestly sufficient flow for MAX, that does the cooling job without killing the combustion. 10. If you cannot find stainless steel pipe combinations that yield the 1-5mm gap, you can always regress back to alternating plates of +/- electrodes. 11. If you are concerned about the water freezing in your system, you can (a) add some 98% isopropyl alcohol and re-adjust the pulse frequency accordingly; or (b) install some electric heating coils. 12. Do not let ANYONE ever compromise your dream, your freedom, your independence, your truth.

REFERENCES

1. Stephen Chambers 'Apparatus for Producing Orthohydrogen and/or Parahydrogen' US Patent 6126794 2. Stanley Meyer 'Method for the Production of a Fuel Gas' US Patent 4936961 3. Creative Science & Research, 'Fuel From Water', fuelless.com 4. Carl Cella 'A Water-Fuelled Car' Nexus Magazine Oct-Nov 1996 5. Peter Lindemann's Free Energy site and his article from NEXUS
'Where in the World is All the Free Energy' 6. George Wiseman's Eagle Research
'The Gas-Saver and HyCO Series' 7. C. Michael Holler 'The Dromedary Newsletter' and 'SuperCarb Techniques' 8. Stephen Chambers 'Prototype Vapor Fuel System'

DISCLAIMER: The author of this document assumes no liability for the use or misuse if this information; which is made available as public-domain information, for the purposes of education, ecology, health, well-being, freedom, liberty, and pursuit of happiness. COMMON LAW COPYRIGHT #285714: All rights to the use and duplication of these plans are hereby reserved for the People, in their efforts to heal and restore the environment. Dare to express your uniqueness and environmental ideals. This technology is an exercise in responsible self-determination.

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[Christ]

Basically guys, I don't know half of the shit in here... but I found this while I was googling homebrew stuff... so, someone, or everyone, should check it out, and see what they can see in it... I know it's probably total bullshit, but I'd like to try it anyway... who can know for sure if you never check it out? Ya know?

So, I guess, if anyone else had the same thought, or would like to kill an old lawnmower, this might be the way to do it!

Help me out here... see what you can come up with!

[FrodoGT]

Its bullshit. Using electrolysis to create hydrogen or other vapor isn't nearly as efficient as people think. And wouldn't be able to produce the amount of gas needed to run even a small engine for more than a few seconds. It would take a large amount of energy to do that much. More than is currently able to fit in a vehicle.

Possibly if you ran the car on very small engines and the chassis was ultra light you could pull it off.

Heres an example of the speed currently capable.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGR9JNH90_4

[Christ]

Actually, I was thinking more like a fuel additive, rather than using it as a prime fuel... just a helper of sorts...

Also, there might be more stock in an idea where we'd have to plug our tanks in overnight to build the necessary fuel, then have a smaller subsystem onboard to extend range... or something similar..

We know that H2 can run a car... it's a simple idea. It has more combustion energy than carbon gas does also, (petro fuels), So it (theoretically) would take less fuel to go the same distance... even when just being used as an additive to fuel in a pressurized secondary fuel cell... like Nitrous, or propane injection.

The first problem I see with these plans is that everything refers to PSI being a normal measure... and it's not. Just as with turbos, it's not the PSI that matters, its the CFM.. just because you have 50 PSI in your fuel chamber doesn't mean jack... you could empty a 4 in^3 cylinder of fuel in seconds on a normal engine, so obviously, it wouldn't be effective... take that same pressure, and relate it to a 400 in^3 cylinder of fuel, and now it takes 100 times as long to empty it... it's not the pressure that matters, perse... it's the volume/time (CFM) that your setup could produce, and the energy drain induced to use it.

You have to remember tho, back when twin-charged systems first came about... they said it couldn't be done, b/c the systems would be so inneficient, that the heat produced alone would contain more energy than the engines themselves would produce... they were obviously quite wrong.

I'm not saying that anyone is right or wrong here, I just would like to dig further into the subject, to figure out why it won't work, and potentially find out if there is ANY way to make it work, or even make it work in some form, such as like an additive, or a helper system.

[Christ]

That video, by the way, made me understand why it's called "Brown Gas"... watch the cylinder as the plates vibrate... lmao.

[CivicSpoon]

My friend went to school with a guy who did something like this to his car (as a fuel additive & not as a sole source of fuel, like Dr0pZ0n3 is talking about). He said he got around 70mpg from it. Unfortunately for me, I was a little inebriated at the time he told me about it, so I can't remember what kind of car the guy was using. Also I think they tested this on the Mythbusters a couple years ago, using it as a sole source of "fuel", and it didn't work.

[FrodoGT]

Well as far as twincharged setups..they arent as efficent as a simple turbo but they are possible. The same may be said here.

[Christ]

Not to be arguementative, but there are twincharged setups that are far more efficient than simple turbo setups.. several of them are still in use today, and I believe Nissan and Toyota have both used it, and I know Lotus has used it on the Toyota GTS engine in their Elise.

Twinscrew charger w/ an electrically dis-engaged clutch (like A/C system) and a large turbo charger (something that wouldn't spool until halfway through the normal ranges.) seems to be the best setup for it.

The idea is to have the supercharger making up for the inefficiency of the turbo at low RPM's, then as the Turbo spools, the pressure differential causes a switch to open the circuit on the S/C, which also opens a bypass valve in the Intake... the S/C becomes excess weight, while the turbo, now spooled, pushes boost.

The S/C is only there to keep the engine in boost at low RPMs.. it's more of a street technology in this config, although the weight and complexity of some systems has basically "outlawed" it in the minds of most dev's.

Anyway, we're wayyy OT here... so back to water.

As far as I'm concerned, with all the "clean" ways to produce electricity, this should be a VERY pheasible source of "clean" energy.. I mean, think about it.. if all electricity was near-to free as a result of 0 fuel costs to produce it, what would be the problem with running super-efficient water burning cars?

Especially since you could leave your own distillation/electrolysis tank plugged in all the time (with safety features, obviously), so that all you'd need to do when you needed fuel, is plug your car into the tank, fill up with pressurized fuel, and take off again...

Also, in the future, if everyone produced their own fuel, "vehicle range" wouldn't be an issue, since I"m sure we'd all be willing to just give some fuel away if someone ran out in front of our house... after all, it's free, and renewable in minutes.... think about it.

World peace, much? Ok, maybe not from water fuel... but still.