time quote for full suspension renew?

[northern piper]

Just got to thinking about the job I'm doing on Thursday, ie replace struts/springs w quick struts, 1 new lower control arm, both inner and outer tie rod ends, stabilizer bar links.

How long do you think a job like this would take? I'm thinking 6-8 hours if it all goes well.

Anyone done a complete overhaul like this to a 2000 3.8 ??

Piper

oh, ps the alignment I'm not doing but an alignment shop is.

[phil-l]

My guess, given a DIYer working in a driveway - but presuming you've got access to air tools (which really help speed things along) and a good floor jack: At least 8 hours. I can't imagine the number of things that would have to work *just* right to get it done in 6 hours. Or maybe I just take longer than many people In any case, a plan is in order.

I would attack it like this: The struts and the LCA are the biggest items and likely most important for getting on the road. So I'd start with the strut on the side that doesn't need the LCA. You'll learn a few tricks that will help speed the other side. Trust me: Take the windshield cowl off right away; don't try to remove the strut by reaching into that small space.

When doing the struts, I'd disconnect the tie rod ends and stabilizer links - but just leave them alone until both struts and the LCA have been replaced.

Now if all has gone well, I'd handle both stabilizer links next, mostly because they should be fairly easy and quick at this point.

Again, if all has gone well, I'd proceed to the tie rod ends. While I've only done a few tie rod ends (and none on my Windstar), it's my understanding the the outers are easier to deal with than the inners. Plus, I believe I've read on this board that a special wrench is required to remove the inner tie rods. I'll also admit that I pushed this part of the job to the last because it's the part I'm least familiar with.

This approach has the advantage of allowing the van to be put back down on all fours (even if it can't be immediately moved) if darkness, weather, or other problems force you to quit before everything has been completed. If you really needed to get the van back on the road temporarily, you'd be able to do so, for example, with only the struts and LCA complete. The other aspects of the project can be handled later without redoing previous work.

Uh-oh: I took a quick look at the weather. Possible rain showers. Get the cowl back on as soon as the struts are in. I hope you stay dry.

I'll be thinking about you tomorrow. I hope all goes well!

[northern piper]

ever heard the "great minds think alike" or "fools seldom differ"? My plan of attack is exactly what you've outlined. So, at least I'm not the only 1 thinking this way! Fortunaltely I have the 16" socket needed to remove the inner and I've already done 1 of the LCA so I know the tricks on doing it. Assuming that I can get the strut out of the steering knuckle I think I'm golden. I do have my oxy/acet set up at home so if I need heat for that I've got it too. My only concern is about holding the rack while torquing the new inner tie rods. I hope that it's not too much of a PITA to do this as I'm sure simply torquing on the inner tie rod would cause a lot of damage to the rack.

Fortunatly the weather in my area is 9'C and partly sunny so hopefully that'll continue.

Piper

[12Ounce]

Be sure to do the anti-sway bar bushings somewhere along the way. It can be a separate task ... but may be most accessable while you are working on the tie-rod inners. (If your's is a hi-mileage vehicle, you might consider replacing the rack with a reman. That way you get new inners, boots, seals, etc, etc,.)

[northern piper]

I totally agree 12ounce. I did the sway bar bushings about 6000 km ago. They need to be done pretty bad so they are done and in good shape. Thanks though.

Piper