Clear Coating Race Cars

[Cobra_Daytona]

I noticed going through the Car Model Gallery that some of the race cars look clear coated, and some just look as though the finish coat of paint was polished, and then decals applied. So I was wondering what the consensus was. Do you prefer clear coat on the model, even though most 1:1 race cars don't have a clear coat. I used some Future floor wax on a recent car build, and it looks awful. Almost too glossy, and shiny. I think it may be the last time I use Future on a model.

As a secondary question, if you don't clear coat do you use anything to seal the decals, or leave them open to the air?

Thanks,
Michael

[ShOrtyOC714]

I would recommend u use Meguires Wax, but if u want to save money buy a cheap one cuz this wax is pretty exspensive. but i went for it anyways for the best results. Thats whut i used for my Carbon Fiber Hood and it came out great. I just finished repainting my car yesterday and today im goin to wax it with Maguires.:flash:

[flyonthewall]

I prefer clear coating decals on race cars, main reasons being to seal them and to help make them not look like kit decals. The only other time i use clears is with metalics and pearls etc, with solid colours there no real need if you paint right.

[Cobra_Daytona]

That's what I was thinking too Fly. I just finished painting the car. I'm going to start polishing the paint, apply the decals, and then clear coat it. Then I should be able to wax the clear coat and buff it to a light sheen. What type of rag do you buff with? I've tried every cloth imagineable, and everything seems to leave light scratches. Any suggestions.

[pcmodeler]

I've had that same discussion with some NASCAR modelers I know. In reality, race car graphics are vinyl, which tends to have a semi-gloss sheen to it. It is also placed on the car after the final clear coat. The reason for this is that sponsor markings and such may be removed and/or replaced at any time.

However, in the modeling world, we also run into a few issues in replicating this.

1. Unlike decals, vinyl markings do not have a clear border around the edges. By this, I mean that even if you cut the carrier film all the way to the edge on most decals, you can do it for everything.

2. Scale thickness. If vinyl scaled out to the same thickness as decals, it would probably be 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. Especially with Revell decals. By clearcoating and polishing, you can avoid that look.

3. Accepted practice. There are things done in scale modeling to impart a sense of realism. This happens most often in other forms of modeling, such as armor, aircraft and figures. For example, a good figure modeler will paint in shadows instead of simply relying on the light in the room. This is done to give a sense of scale. For car modelers, clear coating decals in one way of presenting an object as new. If you were building a car as it would appear after a race, you would probably be better off not clearcoating over the decals.


Anyway, hope that makes sense.

[hrmodeler]

I prefer clear coating. Some of marking on cars are factory painted and they are gloss.
Also clear coat will seal decals and keep it safe for very long period.

[daggerlee]

Although real life decals are semi-gloss, in scale they look flat if you don't do anything to them after applying them. So I think it's best to clearcoat.

P-man waxes over his, and gets a nice shine, but I'm hesitant to do that for fear of lifting or smearing the decals. :o

[Cobra_Daytona]

So he doesn't clear coat, he waxes right over the decals?